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Walking along the narrow streets of Lyon’s Old Town is like leaving the modern world and taking a giant leap back 500 years. Cobblestone streets lined with ancient facades extend for many blocks through the largest Renaissance-era neighborhood in France. The magical feeling of the past is further enhanced by numerous older structures from the Gothic, Romanesque and even classical Roman times, and by the complete absence of modern buildings. Old Lyon has a unified historic atmosphere that you don’t find in many other large cities of Europe. The Old Town is about one mile long and four blocks wide, with nearly 500 protected buildings which, thanks to careful preservation, have been kept in excellent condition and are very much alive today with unique little boutiques and art galleries. And Lyon, famous as a gourmet center of France, can boast of the many fine restaurants in the Old Town with a variety of cuisines and price ranges.Lyon also has an attractive modern district next to the historic zone, with up-to-date shops and department stores, gourmet restaurants, broad pedestrian promenades, plazas, parks, museums and beautiful architecture primarily of the 19th century. History buffs will probably want to spend more time in the old section, but this modern side of Lyon is a fascinating place to wander, eat and shop. The best of both worlds waits for you in Lyon, offering something for everyone in a perfect visitor experience. With a population of 1.26, million Lyon is the second-largest urban area in France, so it definitely has a lot to offer, but fortunately most of the visitor attractions are concentrated in the central square mile.The entire complex of old and new sections has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, affirming the importance and beauty of this amazing city. UNESCO usually selects only individual buildings or small complexes as World Heritage Sites, but here we have a large area of about one square mile assigned the highest mark of distinction. One reason that France ranks as the world’s most-visited nation is the historic atmosphere preserved in its old neighborhoods, and perhaps the best examples of such authentic appeal is found in Old Lyon. Economic success can come from renovating old buildings rather than knocking them down for bigger, more “useful” structures. In recent years, Lyon’s popularity has skyrocketed, so you might consider coming during the off-season, October through May, to avoid the crowds.DAY ONE: Exploring the Old TownThis ancient neighborhood’s narrow streets are clustered together and easily explored on foot. There are a half-dozen main pedestrian lanes connected by smaller cross alleys and plazas, with shops, restaurants and fascinating things to see everywhere. Walking through this special place only once is not enough, for you will miss out on the varying character discoverable at different times of day.The personality of Old Lyon changes dramatically from morning to night, starting off quiet, then getting progressively busier and more crowded. Therefore, it’s a good idea to begin your visit early, about 9:00am before the shops open at 10:00, so you can enjoy the peaceful conditions before the crowds show up. It’s a fine time to absorb the historic atmosphere and appreciate the beautiful old buildings without many distractions. Once ten o’clock rolls around and the shops open, people begin arriving in large numbers, especially if you are here in the busier half of the year. Even with the crowds, mid-day is great for strolling, shopping and people-watching. After all, dealing with the multitude is always part of visiting any popular site and can be the fun, browsing from one unique shop to the next and checking out the endless diversity of faces streaming by.At night the streets are just as filled with people enjoying the special evening ambience enhanced by beautiful lighting on the old facades. At twilight this urban landscape is illuminated by a delightful mix of shop lights and the lingering sunset above. That magic hour can make for some great photographs if you hold the camera steady.While there are lots of eating and shopping opportunities, the main activity here is just strolling, looking at the sights and appreciating the ancient atmosphere of the place. You can pick up a handy guide book published by the Visitors’ Bureau for specific information about many of the historic buildings, but you can also have fun by just walking and looking without needing to know exactly when each structure was built. Simply realizing that most buildings are nearly 500 years old keeps things in perspective.Restaurants are generally open for lunch from 12-2:00pm, and again for dinner from 7-10:30pm, but you will find some cafes, brasseries and creperies open all day that can serve you a light meal any time you please. Most shops, art galleries, craft boutiques and antique stores are open from 10am-7pm.CATHEDRAL HISTORYLocated one short block from the Vieux Lyon metro station, the Cathédral St-Jean is a good place to begin your visit. As in many European towns, the cathedral is one of the oldest buildings in Lyon and sits in the middle of the historic zone which sprang up around it in the Middle Ages. This grand old church was built during a 500-year period, starting in the 12th century, in a mix of styles including Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. The interior is noted for its 13th century stained glass, 16th century astronomical clock, many paintings and extraordinary architecture. Lyon was such an important religious center that more popes came here during the Middle Ages than to any other place outside Italy. It expanded as a trading, banking and manufacturing center, and became the second-largest city in France, partly due to its strategic location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, and alongside important east-west roads dating back to Roman times. Silk manufacturing rapidly developed during the 16th century, and this ongoing tradition has grown into a diversified fashion industry that today employs 47,000 in the region. Lyon’s modern chemical and pharmaceutical industries also grew out of this tradition of silk dyeing, employing another 50,000 today.Place St-Jean in front of the cathedral is the largest plaza of the old town, with attractive facades all around, including the Choir School on the right side of the cathedral. Dating back to 1200, it served as school and housing for the church choir and is considered the oldest non-religious building in town. On the north side of the cathedral along Rue Saint-Etienne is a small Archaeological Garden where recent excavations have turned up evidence of earlier churches on this spot dating back to the 4th century.SAINT-JEANFrom the cathedral, walk north along the main lane of Old Lyon, Rue Saint-Jean. These next few blocks are the city’s most beautiful, so have a good look. Notice how old and unique each colorful building is, with hand-crafted architecture that makes each structure different from its neighbor. This beauty could be easily lost on the casual traveler who might only see the contents of shop windows rather than the buildings themselves; but one can get so much more out of a visit by looking up as well to admire these ancient structures reaching five and six stories into the sky, their facades painted in a colorful spectrum of muted pastels.Now for a little surprise: find the door at number 68 Rue Saint-Jean, push it open and walk inside the narrow corridor that leads through the building and takes you out the other side. You just experienced one of the special joys of Lyon, a “traboule” or hidden passageway, and there are many more waiting to be discovered. Return to Rue Saint-Jean along Rue de la Bombarde, noticing the arcaded galleries set back in a garden courtyard on your left.TRABOULESThese narrow “traboule” passageways are unique to Lyon and have become one of the city’s main attractions. Traboules are covered corridors running through buildings from one street to the next, providing access to interior courtyards and a short-cut between streets at mid-block. Many of these hallways are open for the public to walk through -- if you can find them, which can be a little bit of a trick but part of the charm of Old Lyon. Each entrance is concealed by an unlocked door that you have to push to see if it will open. Another advantage of starting in the morning is that some of these traboules are only open until noon. A free map is offered by the tourist office showing all the hidden passageways, some of which we’ll point out here. Walk another block on Saint-Jean to number 54, which leads into one of the longest traboules, crossing through five courtyards. Each courtyard has its own style, with staircases for access to the interior apartments and open space that brings air and light into the building complex. This densely-packed neighborhood represents a highly efficient and enjoyable use of land: human scale, comfortable conditions, quiet ambience, with shops, cafes and amenities nearby. Traboules are part of an ancient housing pattern established in the Middle Ages which still functions beautifully today, where you have a busy commercial street in front with quiet residences inside each block. One reason traboules developed centuries ago was to protect silk from the weather as it was carried from one place to another, for a lot of this precious fabric was manufactured in Lyon. These covered passageways are found throughout the city, with 230 of them still functioning, but the most interesting traboules are here in the old town.When these buildings were renovated in recent decades, most of the apartments became public housing and are now prized locations in which to live. Along with affordable rents came the obligation to provide public right of way through the buildings, so many of these traboules are freely accessible while others are private for the residents. Walking through the traboules is an adventure, for you never quite know where you will end up.When you emerge at the other end of that long traboule at number 54 Saint-Jean, you will be on Rue du Boeuf, another ancient pedestrian lane which runs parallel to Rue Saint-Jean for four blocks and connected together by several lanes and plazas. Towards the end of this street on the left is the old town’s nicest hotel, the 4-star deluxe Cour des Loges which was created in 2000 within a group of former college buildings dating back to the 14th century.Continue walking in this northerly direction a few blocks until you reach the Hôtel de Gadagne, a Renaissance mansion that houses the Lyon History Museum with its fine collection of artifacts that tell the story of Lyon over the past 500 years. The International Puppet Museum is also in the same mansion. A major seven-year renovation of this complex has just been completed, incorporating audio-visual and multimedia tools to heighten the experience of visitors in a brand-new, enjoyable environment.Another important ancient street, Rue Juiverie, continues for two blocks past more notable mansions before reaching the end of the old town at Place Saint-Paul. Here you can visit the ancient church of Saint-Paul then return into the heart of Old Lyon along Rue Lainerie, which connects with Rue Saint-Jean at the beautiful Place du Change. Here you’ll see the beautiful Temple du Change, built in 1631 as a bank for exchanging foreign currencies and later converted to a Protestant church.While back on Rue Saint-Jean you can also enter several “allée,” short corridors into buildings, to peek into interesting courtyards at numbers 58, 52, 50 42, 28, 24, 18 and 17, and then take the traboule at number 27 which brings you to another pretty lane, Rue des Trois Maries. A couple more traboules are open nearby at numbers 2 and 3 Place du Gouvernment, leading down to the river at Quai Romain Rolland, which is the site of an outdoor art market every Sunday morning when painters, sculptors, jewelers, musicians and poets gather to display their works. That covers most of Old Lyon, but there is also the smaller Saint-George section in the south end you might explore before moving on. For this extra walk, continue south a few blocks along Quai Fulchiron, the street on the river just behind the cathedral, then turn right just beyond the St-Georges Church, which takes you up the Montee des Epies. Now turn into rue Armand Calliat and continue on Montee du Gourguillon, which loops you back to the start of Rue St-Georges at Place de la Trinité, a lovely intersection of three lanes.By now the old town has fully come to life with hundreds, if not thousands, of visitors filling the narrow lanes, snacking on crepes or ice cream, and browsing in the many shops, so you just might want to join the fun and walk once again through the same streets, trading the morning calm for the busy energy of the day.HISTORIC PRESERVATIONSurvival of all these historic structures is the result of much hard work by the government and concerned citizens over a long time period, starting as far back as the 16th century when historical and archaeological studies began. In the 19th century a professional organization was established to protect the city’s history, the Société Académique d’Architecture, which completed a detailed photographic inventory in the 1890s that has been invaluable in subsequent restoration efforts. The neighborhood deteriorated through neglect during the 18th and 19th centuries, and after WWII city planners proposed renewal projects that would have destroyed most of the old buildings. This, fortunately, was stopped by the combined efforts of author and Minister of Culture André Malraux and an aroused public. In 1964 this historic neighborhood was declared France’s first protected district and the Old Lyon Renaissance Association was created to care for the buildings. Comprehensive renovations have been completed, so there is hardly any sight or sound of construction activity to interfere with your reverie while walking through the area today.According to UNESCO, “Lyon illustrates in an exceptional way the progress and evolution of architectural design and town planning over many centuries….The historic site of Lyon may be regarded as an outstanding example of a traditional human settlement, which combines an exceptional site with an urban continuity dating back more than 2,000 years that is remarkable for its harmony.”FOURVIÈREAn essential part of your visit is taking a short trip up the hill behind the Old Town to see the oldest part of Lyon, founded by the Romans and enjoy some fantastic views across the city from several lookouts. Take the easy way up by riding the world’s oldest funicular (built in the 1860s) from the Vieux Lyon metro station one stop to Minimes, and then walk 200 yards to the archaeological park.ANCIENT ROMAN SITESLyon was first settled 2,000 years ago by the Romans who made this their capital in Gaul, most of what is France today. It was the second-largest city in the empire, after Rome, with a population of about 50,000 people. Four aqueducts brought water to this hillside settlement, which was a major military garrison and trading center, complete with a forum, temples, apartments and two large theaters.The oldest surviving part of Lyon are the two Roman theaters discovered beneath the hillside in the 1930s and renovated in the 1950s. The larger one has a capacity of 10,000 spectators and is so well preserved that it is still in use today for concerts, dance, operas and plays. Adjacent is a smaller Odeon designed to hold 3,000 spectators for more intimate music and poetry recitals, built in the 2nd century and also in perfect condition today. This rare combination of two adjacent theaters with additional ruins of shops behind them comprises one of the richest archaeological sites in France. The Gallo-Roman Museum which opened here in 1976 is so cleverly hidden inside the hill you cannot see it, let alone appreciate its scope, until you enter and walk along the 340-yard ramp lined with rich historic displays from Roman times.FOURVIÈRE BASILICAAfter visiting the archaeological park, walk 200 yards north along the street in front, Rue de l’Antiquaille, until you reach a pleasant landscaped path which continues towards the Fourvière Basilica, a huge neo-Byzantine structure that dominates the hill. Built in the late 19th century, the basilica has a colorful interior with extensive mosaics and stained glass, but the main attraction is the outdoor terrace just beyond which offers a perfect panorama view across the entire city. If it is late you will find the view especially charming at twilight.Descending the hill back into the old town is quite easy on foot, with comfortable paths and staircases leading you down in 15 minutes. By now it may be time to look for dinner in one of the typical local restaurants (“bouchons”) that you will easily find in the old town, or perhaps to try some of the different ethnic cuisines available here as well. Walking the streets of Old Lyon in the evening is so wonderful that you just might want to completely retrace the routes you blazed earlier in the day.DAY TWO: Modern LyonAlong with the historic district, Lyon offers a delightful modern side, Presqu’île, where you can easily spend a day exploring on foot. This is the heart of downtown, concentrated into a manageable area about one mile long and six blocks wide on a peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers a few minutes walk from the old town. A metro line also runs the entire length, making it easy to hop from one end to the other.City planners have done a great job creating this modern shopping area, which features one of Europe’s longest pedestrian routes along Rue de la République and Rue Victor Hugo, streets lined with department stores and a wide variety of smaller boutiques. Several broad plazas, such as Place des Jacobins and Place de la République, enhance the neighborhood, as do the many little side lanes connecting the main pedestrian route with the busy commercial streets. Most of the buildings we see today were constructed during the 19th century in a fashion reminiscent of Paris, for both cities were redeveloped under the influence of Napoleon III and Baron Haussman in the Second Empire style of broad boulevards and grand, ornamented buildings. Some older buildings, dating as far back as the Gothic period, lend added visual appeal.PLACE BELLECOURBegin your day at Place Bellecour, formerly the Place Royale, with its equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV in the center. Measuring 200 by 300 yards, this is one of the largest squares in Europe. The official Tourism Office located here offers free maps, guidebooks for sale, a large gift shop and general assistance in planning activities. If you arrived in town without a place to stay or want to change hotels, their comprehensive accommodation service could be quite useful.There is a wide variety of hotels in this modern shopping zone, with a number of less expensive choices like the Hotel des Artistes, a 3-star hotel in the center, or the more upscale 4-star Grand Hotel Boscolo, my favorite. Even if most of your time is spent in Old Lyon, it makes sense to choose a hotel in the newer section since this is where nearly all the choices are found, and it only takes 10 minutes to walk across the river to the old section.RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUELyon’s main pedestrian shopping promenade, Rue de la République, starts from northeast corner of Place Bellecour and continues for about one-half mile with small boutiques and large department stores along its entire length. Already on the right side of the first block, you will see the elaborate 1877 façade of the former Bellecour Theater, now housing the large FNAC department store stuffed with high-tech goodies. Next door is the Pathé cinema complex with ten screens behind an Art Deco façade. It’s worth mentioning the old cinema building because movies were actually invented in Lyon by the Lumière brothers, who photographed the world’s first motion picture here in 1895. You can view that 45-second movie of workers walking out of a factory and other early examples on the web site of Lyon’s Lumière Museum at www.institut-lumiere.com, and visit the museum itself at 25 rue du Premier Film. Their first public screening was in Paris, but one month later a showing was held at the other end of this same Rue de la République.Three blocks further you will arrive at Place de la République, one of the most delightful and important squares in Lyon, with its shops and grand buildings all around and a festive mood created by the merry-go-round and massive fountain that sprays much of the plaza with low jets. Just southeast of the square is a noble old hospital dating from 1706, Hôtel-Dieu, with several historic passages open to the public. On the west side of Place de la République you will notice a Neoclassical arch leading into a covered retail gallery, Passage de l’Argue, created in 1825 as one of the world’s first shopping malls -- a concept invented in Paris a few years earlier. The passage is flanked by a major department store, Printemps. Those interested in outdoor vegetable markets could take a detour three blocks west to the riverbank where vendor stalls are lined up, selling all variety of fresh produce every morning.Chocolate-lovers will want to visit Voisin, in business for 100 years at 28 Rue de la République, and on the left at number 24, notice the very popular Bar Americain & Café Anglais, which offers full meals or just drinks and dessert. Then look for three landmark buildings in the blocks ahead: Saint Bonaventure Church, founded in 1327; the Palais du Commerce, a massive mid-19th palace that housed the stock exchange, law courts and chamber of commerce, located by the Cordeliers metro station; and the Bourse, an opulent bank one block to the right along Rue de la Bourse.Two blocks beyond you reach the opera and city hall, both among the finest structures in town and facing each other across the Place de la Comedie, which is the northernmost extent of our walk. The Opéra de Lyon was built 1826-31 and then dramatically reconstructed in the 1980s, with many floors added above and below more than doubling its size and giving the roof a modern, rounded profile in glass. Hotel de Ville, one of the great buildings of France is much older, constructed as a palace with Italian influences during the time of Louis XIII in the early 17th century. It is closed to the public but can be appreciated from the outside.PLACE DES TERREAUXAround the corner from city hall is the very large Place des Terreaux, one of the main squares of Lyon, with a dramatic fountain and sculpture ensemble in the middle by Alexandre Bartholdi, creator of the Statue of Liberty. This “Chariot of Liberty,” originally commissioned for the city of Bordeaux but displayed instead in Paris at the 1889 World Fair, ended up in Lyon, and was first installed around the corner before recently settling down here, where it has found its true home facing the Art Museum.FINE ARTS MUSEUMLyon’s Fine Art Museum has one of France’s richest collections of art, ranging from ancient Egypt up through Impressionism. Put this high on your list of places to visit, for it is one of the great museums of Europe. First opened in 1802 and recently renovated, the museum is especially strong in European Old Master paintings by most of the famous artists, too numerous to mention. It is a thrill to ramble along from one room to the next in this huge building, discovering endless beauty along the way. Even those with a slight interest in art will find many things to enjoy. The peaceful garden courtyard is a real highlight, surrounded by vast arcades and sprinkled with impressive statues.Walk south along Rue Paul Chenard, a busy commercial street with lots of traffic and lined with many more shops. In a few blocks you’ll reach Saint-Nizier Church, an excellent example of flamboyant Gothic architecture, started in the 15th century and finally finished in the 19th century. From here continue south along Rue Mercière, which becomes a pedestrian lane lined with excellent restaurants that will make you ready to eat no matter what time it is. This charming lane leads into Place des Jacobins, another major square with a large fountain in the center featuring hefty mermaids holding up four artists and surmounted by a small dome. More grand buildings in Second Empire style surround the square with its busy streets leading off in all directions. Continue south two more blocks to your starting point, Place Bellecour, and take a break on a park bench before beginning the afternoon stroll. By now you have covered the main sections of Presqu’île, but there are several interesting streets to enjoy next.VICTOR HUGORue Victor Hugo, leaving from the south side of Place Bellecour, is the southern extension of the great pedestrian promenade through Presqu’île, and continues for eight shop-lined blocks to Place Carnot. When you reach the end, walk over one block to Rue Auguste Comte and head north through the district famous for antique shops. Lyon has nearly 600 antique shops, with the best of them concentrated in the blocks ahead. Those more interested in the field might enjoy visiting the Museum of Decorative Arts and Textiles, nearby at 34 Rue de la Charité.By now you have walked many miles and have earned a fantastic dinner, which you will be able to find on your own very easily in Lyon, one of the gastronomic centers of the world.

• Category

  Food & Drink

• Release Date

  Jan 27, 2008

• Runtime

  07:32