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    <title>The Wood Whisperer</title>
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    <description>The video series that offers a refreshing look at an age-old craft. Marc delivers solid woodworking advice with a sense of humor. The show is funny, unapologetic, and smart.</description>
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      <title>164- Marking Gauges</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>If you&amp;apos;re not using marking gauges or some sort of blade to lay out your joinery, you are really missing out! I remember a conversation I had with William Ng at the William Ng School when he told me, &amp;quot;If you want to make good joinery, use a pencil. But if you want to make great joinery, using a knife!&amp;quot; Marking gauges come in several forms but they are all fundamentally similar. They consist of a post, a moveable fence, and a blade or scratch pin. My personal preference is for blades and you can see a fairly standard traditional marking gauge to the left. So why should you use one? Keep reading. Accuracy When you cut with a knife, the resulting line is maybe a couple thousandths of an inch wide. Compared to a big chunky pencil line, its much easier to know when you&amp;apos;re exactly where you need to be in reference to that line. Additionally, marking gauges have fences which allow us to be consistent when marking multiple sides of a single workpiece for dovetails and tenons. Tearout No doubt you are very familiar with the concept of tearout. When you cut wood across the grain, you&amp;apos;ll inevitably notice small bits of wood tearing out at the end of the board where the fibers are unsupported. So if you actually cut that grain ahead of time with a blade and then cut right up to the line with your saw, you end up with a nice clean crisp shoulder with absolutely no tearout. Tool Guides If you use scribe lines, you&amp;apos;ll have a perfect place to lay the tip of your chisel or saw blade with absolute accuracy and consistency. If you try to line up the tool with a pencil line, you will almost always end up on one side of the line or the other. There&amp;apos;s just too much variability there. But if you have a little trough from a marking gauge or knife, you&amp;apos;ll have a no-brainer aid for locating the tool in the proper place.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
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      <description>If you&amp;apos;re not using marking gauges or some sort of blade to lay out your joinery, you are really missing out! I remember a conversation I had with William Ng at the William Ng School when he told me, &amp;quot;If you want to make good joinery, use a pencil. But if you want to make great joinery, using a knife!&amp;quot; Marking gauges come in several forms but they are all fundamentally similar. They consist of a post, a moveable fence, and a blade or scratch pin. My personal preference is for blades and you can see a fairly standard traditional marking gauge to the left. So why should you use one? Keep reading. Accuracy When you cut with a knife, the resulting line is maybe a couple thousandths of an inch wide. Compared to a big chunky pencil line, its much easier to know when you&amp;apos;re exactly where you need to be in reference to that line. Additionally, marking gauges have fences which allow us to be consistent when marking multiple sides of a single workpiece for dovetails and tenons. Tearout No doubt you are very familiar with the concept of tearout. When you cut wood across the grain, you&amp;apos;ll inevitably notice small bits of wood tearing out at the end of the board where the fibers are unsupported. So if you actually cut that grain ahead of time with a blade and then cut right up to the line with your saw, you end up with a nice clean crisp shoulder with absolutely no tearout. Tool Guides If you use scribe lines, you&amp;apos;ll have a perfect place to lay the tip of your chisel or saw blade with absolute accuracy and consistency. If you try to line up the tool with a pencil line, you will almost always end up on one side of the line or the other. There&amp;apos;s just too much variability there. But if you have a little trough from a marking gauge or knife, you&amp;apos;ll have a no-brainer aid for locating the tool in the proper place.</description>
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      <title>xmas2011</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>holiday party</blip:puredescription>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 18 Dec 2011 02:27:44 +0000</pubDate>
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      <title>163 - Calendar Frame Pt. 2</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>The second and final part of the series focuses on the calendar frame details. We start by creating the front loading slots, then move on to creating the curve in the top rail, and finally we create the small pencil groove in the bottom rail. The frame is then glued up, the back panel is cut and installed and the roundover profile is routed on the perimeter. The finish for the maple frame is Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic Lacquer (we&amp;apos;ll discuss the role of flatteners) and the finish for the white oak frame is Watco Teak Oil. Want To Build Along?Download the SketchUp file Download the PDF Materials Used Lumber supplied by Muterspaw Lumber Rubber Sanding Pads Lee Valley Drawing Bows Up-Cut Spiral Bit Round Nose Bit Extra Thin Wall Mount</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>The second and final part of the series focuses on the calendar frame details. We start by creating the front loading slots, then move on to creating the curve in the top rail, and finally we create the small pencil groove in the bottom rail. The frame is then glued up, the back panel is cut and installed and the roundover profile is routed on the perimeter. The finish for the maple frame is Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic Lacquer (we&amp;apos;ll discuss the role of flatteners) and the finish for the white oak frame is Watco Teak Oil. Want To Build Along?Download the SketchUp file Download the PDF Materials Used Lumber supplied by Muterspaw Lumber Rubber Sanding Pads Lee Valley Drawing Bows Up-Cut Spiral Bit Round Nose Bit Extra Thin Wall Mount</description>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <title>162 - Calendar Frame Pt. 1</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>The calendar frame is a project that highlights the joys of simple joinery. The frame pieces are held together with half-lap joints which are as strong as they are basic. The frame is designed to allow calendar loading from the front unlike traditional frames that need to be removed from the wall every month. The first part of this series covers the wood selection, milling, cutting half-laps, layout and cutting various rabbets. For the sake of simplicity, all of the joinery is made at the router table and a single router bit.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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      <description>The calendar frame is a project that highlights the joys of simple joinery. The frame pieces are held together with half-lap joints which are as strong as they are basic. The frame is designed to allow calendar loading from the front unlike traditional frames that need to be removed from the wall every month. The first part of this series covers the wood selection, milling, cutting half-laps, layout and cutting various rabbets. For the sake of simplicity, all of the joinery is made at the router table and a single router bit.</description>
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      <media:title>162 - Calendar Frame Pt. 1</media:title>
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      <blip:puredescription>Its our annual Thanksgiving sale!! Everything in the store is on sale all weekend long. Here&amp;apos;s the breakdown: Thanksgiving Day (11/24) - 25% OFF Friday (11/25) - 20% OFF Saturday &amp;amp; Sunday (11/26-11/27) - 15% OFF So head on over to the new Wood Whisperer Store and pickup some of the awesome DVDs, templates, and TWW gear we have for sale!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Its our annual Thanksgiving sale!! Everything in the store is on sale all weekend long. Here&amp;apos;s the breakdown: Thanksgiving Day (11/24) - 25% OFF Friday (11/25) - 20% OFF Saturday &amp;amp; Sunday (11/26-11/27) - 15% OFF So head on over to the new Wood Whisperer Store and pickup some of the awesome DVDs, templates, and TWW gear we have for sale!</description>
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      <title>161 - Sanding Efficiency</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>Sanding is one of those tasks that nobody enjoys. Personally, I love finishing. But even crazy people like me would rather have someone else do all the sanding. So in order to get the best results with the least amount of effort, we need to consider the things that have the most dramatic effect on our sanding efficiency. Know Your Terminology If you understand sandpaper lingo, you&amp;apos;ll find it much easier to choose the right material for your work. That means you&amp;apos;ll get the job done faster, you won&amp;apos;t waste as much paper, and the results will be better. First let&amp;apos;s talk about the grit types: Aluminum Oxide: This is the most common material used for woodworking. Its very durable and lasts a long time because it is friable. That means as you use it, the grit breaks apart and leaves more sharp edges. So the paper sands consistently and lasts longer. You can use this stuff on more than just wood and you&amp;apos;ll see it used for sanding finishes, plastics, metal and paint. Garnet: Garnet is a natural abrasive and it is generally only used to sand wood. The reason is because it is NOT friable. Instead, the grit wears down as you use it and ultimately leaves the wood with a smoother surface than aluminum oxide sandpaper. But I get such good results with my standard aluminum oxide papers, I don&amp;apos;t really bother much with garnet. Ceramic: I don&amp;apos;t even have any of this stuff in the shop. Its very hard and durable and generally used for aggressive stock or paint removal. Common to see these in more aggressive tools like belt sanders. Silicon Carbide: Easy to spot because of the color (Gray or black). As woodworkers, these are great for sanding and polishing finishes. They have super high grits and can be used wet or dry, so when we talk about we-sanding, this is the stuff we&amp;apos;re using. Stearated - You&amp;apos;ll very frequently hear the term &amp;quot;stearated&amp;quot; being used in reference to sand paper. Basically, this is a chemical treatment that prevents the paper from clogging. Think of it like a coating of soap that stops wood and finish from adhering to the grit. So this is great for sanding finishes, which tend to stick to paper easily, but it can be used on raw wood as well. Closed vs Open Coat - This property refers to the amount of space between the grit particles on the paper. Open coat means the grit is further apart and is less prone to clogging so it can last longer. Closed coat just means the grit particles are closer together and the paper can become clogged more easily. Armed with this terminology, you can look at pretty much any package of sandpaper and determine how you might be able to use it and whether it is appropriate for your project. Don&amp;apos;t Skip Grits Sanding is nothing more than scratching a surface with grit, right? And its pretty obvious that 80 grit scratches are much deeper than 220 grit scratches. So if you jump from 80 to 220, you&amp;apos;re asking a lot of that 220 grit. In fact, you&amp;apos;ll work harder and go through a lot more paper if you try to remove 80 grit scratches with 220 grit. So it is much more efficient to jump from 80 to 120, and then to 220. Not only will you save time, but you won&amp;apos;t go through quite as much paper in the process. Additionally, you&amp;apos;ll have a much smoother/consistent surface in the end. (use whiteboard drawing for this?) Skipping grits also results in those little swirly pig tails. Use The Right Pad This is something we don&amp;apos;t talk about much because most sanders only have one pad available. But did you know that the pad itself can have an impact on your sanding results? For most large, or perfectly flat surfaces, you can reach your desired surface finish pretty effectively using a soft pad. For more delicate pieces, curves or contours, you&amp;#8217;re going to want to use a super-soft pad. For the most delicate of surfaces, or sensitive of curves, you can even employ a cushioned interface pad that eliminates any pressure so you lightly abrade the surface while maintaining a precise shape or profile. For jobs where a crisp edges are essential, a hard pad would be idea. For instance, when you&amp;apos;re sanding a fairly narrow edge, a soft pad will round over the edges very quickly. But a hard pad keeps the the edge square and doesn&amp;apos;t conform to the edge. No edge rounding over. Maybe do a sample with back light to show the difference. Festool has pads for all of these situations, including a special long life pad that is resistant to high temperatures. Excessive heat can actually destroy the plastic hook and loop material so in a heavy-use or industrial setting, a long life pad can really save you some headache. Use Dust Collection Most of you should know that the dust created by sanding is incredibly bad for you. I try to hammer this home every year during safety week. The best way to avoid breathing the stuff is to prevent it from getting into the air in the first place. So the way we do that is by effectively collecting the dust at the source. When you buy a sander, you should absolutely keep an eye out for a dust collection port and instead of just using the collection bag, connect it to a dust extractor. Aside from heath, there are other potential problems from dust getting in the air. Airborne dust tends to say airborne for a long time. It gets into your tools and eventually, settles into your finish. So if you sand in the morning, you can bet there is still airborne dust floating around when you apply your coats of finish. The end result is more work sanding dust nibs out of your finish. Now here&amp;apos;s another factor that isn&amp;apos;t discussed very much. You know how when you sharpen your planes and chisels, you have to clean off your chisel after each grit, to prevent contaminating your higher grit stones? The same thing can happen when you&amp;apos;re sanding. Imagine sanding with 80 grit and no dust extraction. The 80 grit dust particles just sit on the surface and can set you back when you begin sanding with the next grit, say 120 grit. The sander is now pushing that 80 grit dust around on the surface and it becomes more difficult to sand efficiently. So if you remove all that 80 grit dust ahead of time, the 120 grit paper is free to do its job. Tips Don&amp;apos;t buy cheap paper. Cheap paper actually costs you more in the long run. Cheap paper and cheap bonding agent means you&amp;apos;ll go through it faster. You want to save $, buy bulk. Use a pencil to gauge your progress. Sand slowly 1&amp;quot; per second. Don&amp;apos;t tilt the sander.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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      <description>Sanding is one of those tasks that nobody enjoys. Personally, I love finishing. But even crazy people like me would rather have someone else do all the sanding. So in order to get the best results with the least amount of effort, we need to consider the things that have the most dramatic effect on our sanding efficiency. Know Your Terminology If you understand sandpaper lingo, you&amp;apos;ll find it much easier to choose the right material for your work. That means you&amp;apos;ll get the job done faster, you won&amp;apos;t waste as much paper, and the results will be better. First let&amp;apos;s talk about the grit types: Aluminum Oxide: This is the most common material used for woodworking. Its very durable and lasts a long time because it is friable. That means as you use it, the grit breaks apart and leaves more sharp edges. So the paper sands consistently and lasts longer. You can use this stuff on more than just wood and you&amp;apos;ll see it used for sanding finishes, plastics, metal and paint. Garnet: Garnet is a natural abrasive and it is generally only used to sand wood. The reason is because it is NOT friable. Instead, the grit wears down as you use it and ultimately leaves the wood with a smoother surface than aluminum oxide sandpaper. But I get such good results with my standard aluminum oxide papers, I don&amp;apos;t really bother much with garnet. Ceramic: I don&amp;apos;t even have any of this stuff in the shop. Its very hard and durable and generally used for aggressive stock or paint removal. Common to see these in more aggressive tools like belt sanders. Silicon Carbide: Easy to spot because of the color (Gray or black). As woodworkers, these are great for sanding and polishing finishes. They have super high grits and can be used wet or dry, so when we talk about we-sanding, this is the stuff we&amp;apos;re using. Stearated - You&amp;apos;ll very frequently hear the term &amp;quot;stearated&amp;quot; being used in reference to sand paper. Basically, this is a chemical treatment that prevents the paper from clogging. Think of it like a coating of soap that stops wood and finish from adhering to the grit. So this is great for sanding finishes, which tend to stick to paper easily, but it can be used on raw wood as well. Closed vs Open Coat - This property refers to the amount of space between the grit particles on the paper. Open coat means the grit is further apart and is less prone to clogging so it can last longer. Closed coat just means the grit particles are closer together and the paper can become clogged more easily. Armed with this terminology, you can look at pretty much any package of sandpaper and determine how you might be able to use it and whether it is appropriate for your project. Don&amp;apos;t Skip Grits Sanding is nothing more than scratching a surface with grit, right? And its pretty obvious that 80 grit scratches are much deeper than 220 grit scratches. So if you jump from 80 to 220, you&amp;apos;re asking a lot of that 220 grit. In fact, you&amp;apos;ll work harder and go through a lot more paper if you try to remove 80 grit scratches with 220 grit. So it is much more efficient to jump from 80 to 120, and then to 220. Not only will you save time, but you won&amp;apos;t go through quite as much paper in the process. Additionally, you&amp;apos;ll have a much smoother/consistent surface in the end. (use whiteboard drawing for this?) Skipping grits also results in those little swirly pig tails. Use The Right Pad This is something we don&amp;apos;t talk about much because most sanders only have one pad available. But did you know that the pad itself can have an impact on your sanding results? For most large, or perfectly flat surfaces, you can reach your desired surface finish pretty effectively using a soft pad. For more delicate pieces, curves or contours, you&amp;#8217;re going to want to use a super-soft pad. For the most delicate of surfaces, or sensitive of curves, you can even employ a cushioned interface pad that eliminates any pressure so you lightly abrade the surface while maintaining a precise shape or profile. For jobs where a crisp edges are essential, a hard pad would be idea. For instance, when you&amp;apos;re sanding a fairly narrow edge, a soft pad will round over the edges very quickly. But a hard pad keeps the the edge square and doesn&amp;apos;t conform to the edge. No edge rounding over. Maybe do a sample with back light to show the difference. Festool has pads for all of these situations, including a special long life pad that is resistant to high temperatures. Excessive heat can actually destroy the plastic hook and loop material so in a heavy-use or industrial setting, a long life pad can really save you some headache. Use Dust Collection Most of you should know that the dust created by sanding is incredibly bad for you. I try to hammer this home every year during safety week. The best way to avoid breathing the stuff is to prevent it from getting into the air in the first place. So the way we do that is by effectively collecting the dust at the source. When you buy a sander, you should absolutely keep an eye out for a dust collection port and instead of just using the collection bag, connect it to a dust extractor. Aside from heath, there are other potential problems from dust getting in the air. Airborne dust tends to say airborne for a long time. It gets into your tools and eventually, settles into your finish. So if you sand in the morning, you can bet there is still airborne dust floating around when you apply your coats of finish. The end result is more work sanding dust nibs out of your finish. Now here&amp;apos;s another factor that isn&amp;apos;t discussed very much. You know how when you sharpen your planes and chisels, you have to clean off your chisel after each grit, to prevent contaminating your higher grit stones? The same thing can happen when you&amp;apos;re sanding. Imagine sanding with 80 grit and no dust extraction. The 80 grit dust particles just sit on the surface and can set you back when you begin sanding with the next grit, say 120 grit. The sander is now pushing that 80 grit dust around on the surface and it becomes more difficult to sand efficiently. So if you remove all that 80 grit dust ahead of time, the 120 grit paper is free to do its job. Tips Don&amp;apos;t buy cheap paper. Cheap paper actually costs you more in the long run. Cheap paper and cheap bonding agent means you&amp;apos;ll go through it faster. You want to save $, buy bulk. Use a pencil to gauge your progress. Sand slowly 1&amp;quot; per second. Don&amp;apos;t tilt the sander.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Years ago, I borrowed some inspiration from Norm and built a simple plywood work table and used it as my tablesaw outfeed table. That original table is long gone but I recently built another one. I did include some changes and that&amp;apos;s what this video is about. I think this design is a little better, but it was all based on the original concept. You can watch the original video here. All you need to make a table like this is a couple sheets of plywood and some hardwood (or in my case MDF) for trim. Products Mentioned:Heavy-Duty Flip Top Roller Stand HTC Roller TableQ&amp;amp;A Topics: Finish for the outfeed table Split-Top Roubo New Fangled Workbench Boutique tools</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
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      <description>Years ago, I borrowed some inspiration from Norm and built a simple plywood work table and used it as my tablesaw outfeed table. That original table is long gone but I recently built another one. I did include some changes and that&amp;apos;s what this video is about. I think this design is a little better, but it was all based on the original concept. You can watch the original video here. All you need to make a table like this is a couple sheets of plywood and some hardwood (or in my case MDF) for trim. Products Mentioned:Heavy-Duty Flip Top Roller Stand HTC Roller TableQ&amp;amp;A Topics: Finish for the outfeed table Split-Top Roubo New Fangled Workbench Boutique tools</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>The rocking horse is a great project for new and experienced woodworkers alike so its perfect for our charity build. If you would like to build along, I suggest downloading the plan today while it is still free. You can also download full-size patterns here. The second and final video in this series covers finishing and assembly. As with any project, you should always ask yourself if it might be better to pre-finish the parts. Since the rocking horse would be incredibly difficult to finish after assembly and all of our parts are screwed together, pre-finishing was a no-brainer. I&amp;apos;ll show you some cool tricks for coloring the horses mane as well as how to effectively plug the counter-sink holes (after finishing). Here are some of the tools I used: Tapered Plug Cutter General Finishes Gel Stain BullsEye ShellacHow the Charity Works For each person who completes a rocking horse (one per person), I am donating $1 to Livestrong. We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation. With their help and yours, we are trying to reach our goal of $10,000! If you don&amp;apos;t want to build along you can always donate directly. And if you&amp;apos;re interested in becoming a sponsor, please feel free to contact me. 100% of proceeds benefit Livestrong. When you finish your rocking horse, simply send me a picture and your build will count toward our final tally. All pictures must be submitted by November 14th. Our Sponsors Special thanks to our individual sponsors: Erik Gilling, Joseph Buscemi, and Jason Small.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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      <description>The rocking horse is a great project for new and experienced woodworkers alike so its perfect for our charity build. If you would like to build along, I suggest downloading the plan today while it is still free. You can also download full-size patterns here. The second and final video in this series covers finishing and assembly. As with any project, you should always ask yourself if it might be better to pre-finish the parts. Since the rocking horse would be incredibly difficult to finish after assembly and all of our parts are screwed together, pre-finishing was a no-brainer. I&amp;apos;ll show you some cool tricks for coloring the horses mane as well as how to effectively plug the counter-sink holes (after finishing). Here are some of the tools I used: Tapered Plug Cutter General Finishes Gel Stain BullsEye ShellacHow the Charity Works For each person who completes a rocking horse (one per person), I am donating $1 to Livestrong. We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation. With their help and yours, we are trying to reach our goal of $10,000! If you don&amp;apos;t want to build along you can always donate directly. And if you&amp;apos;re interested in becoming a sponsor, please feel free to contact me. 100% of proceeds benefit Livestrong. When you finish your rocking horse, simply send me a picture and your build will count toward our final tally. All pictures must be submitted by November 14th. Our Sponsors Special thanks to our individual sponsors: Erik Gilling, Joseph Buscemi, and Jason Small.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>A live session where I discuss my new torsion box assembly table.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>One of my all-time favorite hand tools is the router plane. However, I very rarely use it to create joinery. In my shop, its sole purpose is fine-tuning. The blade can be set at a fixed distance from the base so it is incredibly effective at creating dados and grooves of a consistent depth. When I cut dados in large boards or plywood, the pieces inevitably lift up to some extent. The scary thing is you might not even realize it&amp;apos;s happening. But when you go to assemble the case, you can&amp;apos;t figure out why the sides are bowing out! Chances are, your dados and grooves were not cut at a consistent depth. Enter the router plane! I make a habit of setting my router plane and quickly going over each and every dado in my projects. You&amp;apos;d be surprised at how much material this bad boy catches, and the subsequent headaches it can prevent. If you don&amp;apos;t already have one, you should definitely pick one up! They are so choice!</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>One of my all-time favorite hand tools is the router plane. However, I very rarely use it to create joinery. In my shop, its sole purpose is fine-tuning. The blade can be set at a fixed distance from the base so it is incredibly effective at creating dados and grooves of a consistent depth. When I cut dados in large boards or plywood, the pieces inevitably lift up to some extent. The scary thing is you might not even realize it&amp;apos;s happening. But when you go to assemble the case, you can&amp;apos;t figure out why the sides are bowing out! Chances are, your dados and grooves were not cut at a consistent depth. Enter the router plane! I make a habit of setting my router plane and quickly going over each and every dado in my projects. You&amp;apos;d be surprised at how much material this bad boy catches, and the subsequent headaches it can prevent. If you don&amp;apos;t already have one, you should definitely pick one up! They are so choice!</description>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <blip:puredescription>Last week I wrote an article about having patience in the shop. The inspiration for that article came from the two Adirondack Chairs that were nearing completion in my own shop. If you&amp;apos;ve ever built a Greene &amp;amp; Greene project, you know that the real magic occurs at the end when the soft subtle curves become punctuated by the pillowed ebony plugs. Since I had two chairs on the bench, I had to make 68 of these little buggers! Talk about testing your patience! After tapping a few plugs into place, I knew that all the hard work was well worth it! So here&amp;apos;s the final product. One chair made with Honduran Mahogany from a local source (left) and the other made from plantation-grown Fiji Mahogany from Bell Forest Products (right). As always in the Guild, I try to show numerous options in materials, techniques, and finishes. Since I had two chairs, this was the perfect opportunity for a comparative experiment. One chair received two coats of Watco Teak Oil and the other received two coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine. The Sikkens actually contains some pigment which is partly responsible for the cleaner more consistent look of the chair on the right. Personally, I think the chair on the left has more personality, so here are a few more photos for you to check out: Join the Guild! Save 10% If you&amp;apos;re not already a Guild member, you can sign up today and get immediate access to all 16 videos from the Adirondack Chair Build. In addition, you&amp;apos;ll have access to all of our other archived projects including the Shaker Table, the Chest of Drawers, and the Wall-Hanging Cabinet. Sign Up Now and Receive 10% OFF your membership! Use coupon code CHAIR at checkout.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>Last week I wrote an article about having patience in the shop. The inspiration for that article came from the two Adirondack Chairs that were nearing completion in my own shop. If you&amp;apos;ve ever built a Greene &amp;amp; Greene project, you know that the real magic occurs at the end when the soft subtle curves become punctuated by the pillowed ebony plugs. Since I had two chairs on the bench, I had to make 68 of these little buggers! Talk about testing your patience! After tapping a few plugs into place, I knew that all the hard work was well worth it! So here&amp;apos;s the final product. One chair made with Honduran Mahogany from a local source (left) and the other made from plantation-grown Fiji Mahogany from Bell Forest Products (right). As always in the Guild, I try to show numerous options in materials, techniques, and finishes. Since I had two chairs, this was the perfect opportunity for a comparative experiment. One chair received two coats of Watco Teak Oil and the other received two coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine. The Sikkens actually contains some pigment which is partly responsible for the cleaner more consistent look of the chair on the right. Personally, I think the chair on the left has more personality, so here are a few more photos for you to check out: Join the Guild! Save 10% If you&amp;apos;re not already a Guild member, you can sign up today and get immediate access to all 16 videos from the Adirondack Chair Build. In addition, you&amp;apos;ll have access to all of our other archived projects including the Shaker Table, the Chest of Drawers, and the Wall-Hanging Cabinet. Sign Up Now and Receive 10% OFF your membership! Use coupon code CHAIR at checkout.</description>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <blip:puredescription>This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can put in your virtual &amp;quot;tool cabinet&amp;quot; for future use. I also cover the layout of my tools and how to secure them inside the case. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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      <description>This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can put in your virtual &amp;quot;tool cabinet&amp;quot; for future use. I also cover the layout of my tools and how to secure them inside the case. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com</description>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Aug 2011 01:56:57 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>As is always the case, my designs tend to change on the fly. And since this was a Guild project, a lot of Guild member input went into the design modifications. So this video begins with a quick screencast showing you some of the changes I made to the tool cabinet since our last presentation. Viva la Sketchup! With the design mostly complete, we can start the construction phase. My goal is to build the project entirely out of Baltic Birch plywood. Its cheap, stable, and doesn&amp;apos;t look half bad even without edge treatments! It really is the perfect material for shop furniture and jigs. Now one thing to keep in mind is that my ultimate goal here is to teach you how to build your own cabinet. This is completely different than giving you a plan and saying, &amp;quot;Copy this!&amp;quot;. I am providing you with my working Sketchup file and my cut list, but due to the nature of plywood and its variations in thickness, you will absolutely need to put your thinking cap on and do some design work on your own. But with the Sketchup File, the video, and your noggin, you have everything you need to build this project or some variation of it. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>As is always the case, my designs tend to change on the fly. And since this was a Guild project, a lot of Guild member input went into the design modifications. So this video begins with a quick screencast showing you some of the changes I made to the tool cabinet since our last presentation. Viva la Sketchup! With the design mostly complete, we can start the construction phase. My goal is to build the project entirely out of Baltic Birch plywood. Its cheap, stable, and doesn&amp;apos;t look half bad even without edge treatments! It really is the perfect material for shop furniture and jigs. Now one thing to keep in mind is that my ultimate goal here is to teach you how to build your own cabinet. This is completely different than giving you a plan and saying, &amp;quot;Copy this!&amp;quot;. I am providing you with my working Sketchup file and my cut list, but due to the nature of plywood and its variations in thickness, you will absolutely need to put your thinking cap on and do some design work on your own. But with the Sketchup File, the video, and your noggin, you have everything you need to build this project or some variation of it. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>This Saturday, July 23rd, everything in the TWW Store will be 25% OFF! So if you&amp;apos;ve been waiting to pick up that book, DVD, mug, hat, t-shirt, or anything else, now is a great time to do it! The sale is for one day only so don&amp;apos;t miss it! And instead of just doing a boring sales announcement video, I thought it would be fun to introduce you to the folks behind the scenes who make it all happen: my mom and step-dad. Without them, I am confident that we wouldn&amp;apos;t even have a store. There just isn&amp;apos;t enough time in the day for me and Nicole to fulfill the orders. I hope you enjoy!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>This Saturday, July 23rd, everything in the TWW Store will be 25% OFF! So if you&amp;apos;ve been waiting to pick up that book, DVD, mug, hat, t-shirt, or anything else, now is a great time to do it! The sale is for one day only so don&amp;apos;t miss it! And instead of just doing a boring sales announcement video, I thought it would be fun to introduce you to the folks behind the scenes who make it all happen: my mom and step-dad. Without them, I am confident that we wouldn&amp;apos;t even have a store. There just isn&amp;apos;t enough time in the day for me and Nicole to fulfill the orders. I hope you enjoy!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Every shop needs a tool chest. So I set out to build a beautiful wall-hanging unit made completely from plywood. Plywood is inexpensive, durable, easy to find, and perfect for shop furniture. The first video in the series focuses entirely on the design. Now I&amp;#8217;m no George Walker and I would guess that you aren&amp;#8217;t either. So how do we &amp;#8220;average Joe designers&amp;#8221; go about developing a project concept from start to finish? I&amp;#8217;ll show ya! My general workflow looks something like this: Identify the requirements &amp;#8211;&amp;gt; Establish what we know &amp;#8211;&amp;gt; Determine what we don&amp;#8217;t know &amp;#8211;&amp;gt; Use SketchUp (roughly) to help define dimensions &amp;#8211;&amp;gt; Assess visual appeal and apply relevant design rules if possible Notice I said I only use SketchUp &amp;#8220;roughly&amp;#8221;. While SketchUp is an incredibly powerful tool and I envy those that are proficient in it, you certainly don&amp;#8217;t have to be an expert to use it. Who says you need to sketch the entire project from top to bottom, inside and out? If you can draw rectangles and lines, you already know enough to help answer some fundamental design questions on any project you build. And if you have the time and desire to get deeper into the program, go for it! Your work will only benefit from the additional detail. But if you aren&amp;#8217;t inclined to click &amp;#8216;n drag design, you can still use this incredibly helpful program at the most basic level and still get something useful out of it. Thankfully, Guild member Robert (TurkVA) is one of those fancy proficient SketchUp users, and he was able to create a SketchUp plan which is available for you to download now. Remember, this is not a &amp;#8220;how-to&amp;#8221;; its a &amp;#8220;how-I-do&amp;#8221;. And you&amp;#8217;ll see that I actually have to change my original design after I see how things are going to look in Sketchup. So its a fairly unfiltered look into my process. Oh, and Nicole is back to show us her sweet acting skillz! I should also mention that this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>The GRR-Ripper is an ingenius safety device from the folks at MicroJig. Most power tools can injure you in two primary ways: kickback or blade/bit contact. The GRR-Ripper protects you from both types of injury. It not only allows you to have better control of the workpiece, it also protects your hands should disaster strike. In addition, the GRR-Ripper makes it possible to perform cuts that would otherwise be extremely dangerous, such as cutting odd shapes and thin strips. To learn more about the GRR-Ripper, head to MicroJig.com or MicroJig&amp;apos;s YouTube Page. Get a grip on your work today! The Giveaway MicroJig was kind enough to offer up three GRR-Rippers as a random giveaway! All you have to do is leave a meaningful comment on any one of this week&amp;apos;s safety-related posts. The more you comment, the better your chances of winning. But if you just say something silly, that won&amp;apos;t count. Winners will be announced on Friday May 6th. Giveaway is limited to US and CANADA only. Products Shown in the Video Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) The Micro Jig GRR-Ripper&amp;#8482; lets you feed both sides of a workpiece parallel through the saw blade and eliminates bare hand feeding.Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&amp;apos;&amp;apos; Kerf Make table saw rips safer and prevent kickback! Made to handle professional use, even with heavy panels and dense solid wood. Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&amp;apos;&amp;apos; Kerf Micro Jig ZeroPlay&amp;#8482; Guide Bar System Each guide bar is composed of two interlocking plastic bars that adjust laterally to the exact width of your miter slot to stabilize your jigs. Guide bars are easily calibrated from the top of jig.Micro Jig ZeroPlay&amp;#8482; Guide Bar System</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Every year, I like to take some time off for my own woodworking eduction. I truly believe that a craftsman never stops learning. Even when you think you know all there is about a technique or topic, there is always something to be gained from another perspective. A 5-day class at the William Ng School fits the bill quite nicely for an educational adventure. The William Ng School is located in Anaheim, Ca and features class projects that really speak to me; lots of Asian-influenced work as well as numerous Greene &amp;amp; Greene pieces. Also, its only about a 6 hour drive, so I can build any size project and bring it back with me. The instructors are always top-notch and the shop assistants are helpful and knowledgeable. The lunches are excellent and there is always enough coffee and green tea to go around. If you&amp;apos;ve never taken a 5-day class, I&amp;apos;d highly recommend it. You will be amazed at what you can build with no distractions in a well-outfitted shop. I&amp;apos;m not sure at what point in my life five days of non-stop manual labor became fun, but I&amp;apos;m there now! This is my ideal vacation! Last year, I attended Darrell Peart&amp;apos;s Aurora End Table class (see the 6 Days to Aurora series of posts ), so this year I decided to take William Ng&amp;apos;s Greene &amp;amp; Greene Coffee Table class. The tables compliment one another and more importantly, Nicole has been waiting patiently for me to build her a coffee table for the last ten years! Scratch one off the honey-do list! Part of this little vacation is NOT documenting every step of the process, but I do enjoy taking photos. So that&amp;apos;s what I have for you here: a pictorial that documents the process in pictures. I hope you enjoy.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Its all about dye, &amp;#8220;Wood Whisperer Style&amp;#8221;. My goal with this video is to grossly simplify the confusing world of dyes, while also giving you the knowledge you need to determine the working characteristics of any dye just by looking at the ingredients list or MSDS. We&amp;#8217;ll discuss the different types of dyes, how to apply them, and we&amp;#8217;ll even get into the chemistry behind water-based finishes and a key family of solvents known as glycol ethers. Knowledge is power!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Its all about dye, &amp;#8220;Wood Whisperer Style&amp;#8221;. My goal with this video is to grossly simplify the confusing world of dyes, while also giving you the knowledge you need to determine the working characteristics of any dye just by looking at the ingredients list or MSDS. We&amp;#8217;ll discuss the different types of dyes, how to apply them, and we&amp;#8217;ll even get into the chemistry behind water-based finishes and a key family of solvents known as glycol ethers. Knowledge is power!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>After I posted the previous Shop Journal entry, there was about two weeks of post-construction inactivity. Essentially, this was the calm before the storm. I had just a couple of days to move some smaller items into the new space before the movers came for the big power tools. The move itself went well, with the exception of one near-mishap, which I happend to get footage of. Now that the tools are in place, its time to start getting the place ready for some sawdust-slingin&amp;#8217; action! I hope you enjoy this insider&amp;#8217;s look into my shop move. Just a quick technical note. This video was shot entirely on my little Flip Cam. You&amp;#8217;ll notice a much &amp;#8220;shakier&amp;#8221; presentation than normal. But its the small form factor that allowed me to get this footage in the first place. So hopefully it won&amp;#8217;t be too distracting.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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      <description>After I posted the previous Shop Journal entry, there was about two weeks of post-construction inactivity. Essentially, this was the calm before the storm. I had just a couple of days to move some smaller items into the new space before the movers came for the big power tools. The move itself went well, with the exception of one near-mishap, which I happend to get footage of. Now that the tools are in place, its time to start getting the place ready for some sawdust-slingin&amp;#8217; action! I hope you enjoy this insider&amp;#8217;s look into my shop move. Just a quick technical note. This video was shot entirely on my little Flip Cam. You&amp;#8217;ll notice a much &amp;#8220;shakier&amp;#8221; presentation than normal. But its the small form factor that allowed me to get this footage in the first place. So hopefully it won&amp;#8217;t be too distracting.</description>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 18 Mar 2011 21:15:08 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>Moving back to the new old shop. Here&amp;apos;s a look at some of the changes coming down the line.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Moving back to the new old shop. Here&amp;apos;s a look at some of the changes coming down the line.</description>
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      <title>139 - Exact Width Dado Jig</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>In the Weekend Wall Shelf episode, I showed you how to use a parallel jig to create dados. But the jig was originally created for making coves at the tablesaw. So here&amp;apos;s a special jig made specifically for the purpose of creating dados with your router. The best part is, you can get exact-width dados EVERY TIME! This jig was developed and demonstrated in the current Guild Build as part of the Wall-Hanging Cabinet series. So this is a little sample of what Guild members are enjoying every week during the build season. If you are interested in joining the Guild, learn more here . This jig can be made to any size for any bit/guide bushing combination. Just remember that once you use a particular bit/bushing combo with the jig, you are stuck with it. Using a different combination will defeat the purpose of the jig. I used a 5/8&amp;quot; guide bushing and a 1/2&amp;quot; router bit. Don&amp;apos;t forget to download the PDF and SketchUp drawing for the Exact Width Dado Jig! Guild Member Jig Modifications I requested ideas modifications to the jig, and a couple Guild members were quick to off suggestions. If you have a modification, upload it to our SketchUp Library and share the link in the comments below. Denny&amp;apos;s Suggestion Robert&amp;apos;s Suggestion (SketchUp File) Resources JIG IT&amp;#174; Hardware Kit This is a nice multi-pack of jig-building parts. Assorted T-bolts, knobs, and inserts for customizing your own jigs and fixtures for your shop. Very handy to have around.JIG IT&amp;#174; Hardware Kit</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>In the Weekend Wall Shelf episode, I showed you how to use a parallel jig to create dados. But the jig was originally created for making coves at the tablesaw. So here&amp;apos;s a special jig made specifically for the purpose of creating dados with your router. The best part is, you can get exact-width dados EVERY TIME! This jig was developed and demonstrated in the current Guild Build as part of the Wall-Hanging Cabinet series. So this is a little sample of what Guild members are enjoying every week during the build season. If you are interested in joining the Guild, learn more here . This jig can be made to any size for any bit/guide bushing combination. Just remember that once you use a particular bit/bushing combo with the jig, you are stuck with it. Using a different combination will defeat the purpose of the jig. I used a 5/8&amp;quot; guide bushing and a 1/2&amp;quot; router bit. Don&amp;apos;t forget to download the PDF and SketchUp drawing for the Exact Width Dado Jig! Guild Member Jig Modifications I requested ideas modifications to the jig, and a couple Guild members were quick to off suggestions. If you have a modification, upload it to our SketchUp Library and share the link in the comments below. Denny&amp;apos;s Suggestion Robert&amp;apos;s Suggestion (SketchUp File) Resources JIG IT&amp;#174; Hardware Kit This is a nice multi-pack of jig-building parts. Assorted T-bolts, knobs, and inserts for customizing your own jigs and fixtures for your shop. Very handy to have around.JIG IT&amp;#174; Hardware Kit</description>
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      <pubDate>Thu, 10 Feb 2011 19:37:01 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>A simple and elegant Honduran Mahogany wall shelf that can be completed in a weekend!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>A simple and elegant Honduran Mahogany wall shelf that can be completed in a weekend!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Assembling a River Bend windsor chair kit.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Assembling a River Bend windsor chair kit.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>In the final part of this series, I do the final work on the stretchers and then its time for the glueup! The table top gets a special profile as well as a few cable recesses for the monitor and mouse cables. The top is attached via screws in elongated slots, and the counter sink holes are hidden using tapered plugs. Of course, the desk needs a good finish and Arm-R-Seal Stain fits the bill nicely! Topics Covered: Milling the cross-members Cross-member joinery Small knot repair Final leg sculpting Sanding methods for cross-grain situations Using a special table top router bit Attaching the top to the base Making elongated screw slots the easy way Creating tapered plugs The Glueup Finishing and Sanding Strategies Dust Safety Finishing Justification: Color and Sheen Pore-Filling Products</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>In the final part of this series, I do the final work on the stretchers and then its time for the glueup! The table top gets a special profile as well as a few cable recesses for the monitor and mouse cables. The top is attached via screws in elongated slots, and the counter sink holes are hidden using tapered plugs. Of course, the desk needs a good finish and Arm-R-Seal Stain fits the bill nicely! Topics Covered: Milling the cross-members Cross-member joinery Small knot repair Final leg sculpting Sanding methods for cross-grain situations Using a special table top router bit Attaching the top to the base Making elongated screw slots the easy way Creating tapered plugs The Glueup Finishing and Sanding Strategies Dust Safety Finishing Justification: Color and Sheen Pore-Filling Products</description>
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      <media:title>136 - Trestle Table Pt. 3</media:title>
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      <blip:puredescription>Now that the leg pieces are cut to their rough shape, we need to focus on blending the parts using the router, the ball mill, and the rasp. Its a process that has a lot of wiggle room depending on your tool preferences and the final shape you are trying to achieve. I also tackle the initial work on the table top, which turns out to be a little tricky due to the size and weight of the pieces. And even though I&amp;apos;m not completely done with the project, I have to start the finishing process for strategic reasons. Topics Covered:Creating the &amp;quot;rounded look&amp;quot; using roundover bits.Shaping and blending using a ball mill, a rasp, and sandpaper. A clever way to use custom cauls for clamping the angled legs.Using epoxy and a high density filler as an adhesive.Planing the 14&amp;quot; wide 6/4 mahogany pieces for the table top using the skip planing technique.Using hand planes to prep a long edge for power jointing.Alternative ways of prepping an edge for jointing.Gluing up the top.Creating a template for the curved ends of the table top.Finishing strategy (the bottom of the table top)</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>The trestle table is one of the oldest table forms known to man. Its simple, strong, and for the modern woodworker, its very fun to build. My trestle table is actually going to be used as a PC gaming desk for Nicole and I. So its size and shape must be conducive to long gaming sessions (which means the occasional meal will be eaten there as well). I take you through my entire design and template-creation process and by the end of the video we&amp;apos;ll have our rough trestle legs. For expedience and simplicity, I used the Festool Domino for the joinery. When joining pieces that come together at an angle, its a real time-saver! Topics Covered: Design Justification The Value of Drawing Creating Full-Sized Drawings</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>The base for the advent calendar is made with 1/2&amp;#8243; ply, butt joints and brad nails. Doesn&amp;#8217;t get simpler than that! Once the construction is complete, I embark on a journey into the world of faux finishing with a 2-part distressed paint job. Now I know my way around the finish cabinet, but one of my weak areas is acrylic paint. I just never work with the stuff, let alone creating faux finishes. So the best way to learn sometimes is to jump in and do it. And maybe its not too surprising that things aren&amp;#8217;t exactly perfect. But with a little elbow grease, the Advent Calendar is now resting comfortable on the ledge in my entrance hallway.</blip:puredescription>
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      <media:title>133 - Advent Calendar Pt. 3</media:title>
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      <blip:puredescription>In the second part of this three-part series, I continue the construction of the main grid-work. I show you a cool trick for cutting small dowel pieces and then the assembly begins. For small parts like this, I actually have a cool method that involves the use of two different glues. I then cut the triangle shape using a circular saw and a guide, which worked surprisingly well. Finally, I add the mitered trim pieces and our Advent Calendar proper is fully constructed!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>In the second part of this three-part series, I continue the construction of the main grid-work. I show you a cool trick for cutting small dowel pieces and then the assembly begins. For small parts like this, I actually have a cool method that involves the use of two different glues. I then cut the triangle shape using a circular saw and a guide, which worked surprisingly well. Finally, I add the mitered trim pieces and our Advent Calendar proper is fully constructed!</description>
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      <media:title>132 - Advent Calendar Pt. 2</media:title>
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      <blip:puredescription>The holidays are quickly approaching, and this year I&amp;apos;m making an Advent Calendar. If you aren&amp;apos;t familiar with Advent, check out this article. Now I&amp;apos;m not a religious man but I do celebrate Christmas, and I have the fondest memories counting down the days in December as a child. Who am I kidding? I STILL count down the days until Christmas!! This Advent calendar is relatively basic in design, but has 25 little cubbies with enough room for a special treat or a secret message. In the first part of the two-part series, I start working on the grid structure and the hanging of the doors. The grid structure is creating using a shop-made jig that is very similar to a box-joint jig. And if you&amp;apos;ve been following the Shop Journal on the blog, you&amp;apos;ll know how much of a pain the door hanging has been (see links below). But I finally came up with a good solution that I think you are going to like. It involves the use of Blind Nails from FastCap (pictured left). Want to build along with me? Download the plans and start making some sawdust: Advent Calendar SketchUp Plan Advent Calendar PDF Plan Associated Shop Journal Posts: Jig For the Advent Calendar Tiny Door Hinges http://thewoodwhisperer.com/more-tiny-door-hinges/</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>The holidays are quickly approaching, and this year I&amp;apos;m making an Advent Calendar. If you aren&amp;apos;t familiar with Advent, check out this article. Now I&amp;apos;m not a religious man but I do celebrate Christmas, and I have the fondest memories counting down the days in December as a child. Who am I kidding? I STILL count down the days until Christmas!! This Advent calendar is relatively basic in design, but has 25 little cubbies with enough room for a special treat or a secret message. In the first part of the two-part series, I start working on the grid structure and the hanging of the doors. The grid structure is creating using a shop-made jig that is very similar to a box-joint jig. And if you&amp;apos;ve been following the Shop Journal on the blog, you&amp;apos;ll know how much of a pain the door hanging has been (see links below). But I finally came up with a good solution that I think you are going to like. It involves the use of Blind Nails from FastCap (pictured left). Want to build along with me? Download the plans and start making some sawdust: Advent Calendar SketchUp Plan Advent Calendar PDF Plan Associated Shop Journal Posts: Jig For the Advent Calendar Tiny Door Hinges http://thewoodwhisperer.com/more-tiny-door-hinges/</description>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Nov 2010 04:38:37 +0000</pubDate>
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      <media:title>131 - Advent Calendar Pt. 1</media:title>
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      <title>130 - Halloween Router Bowl</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>When most of us think of a wooden bowl, we think of the lathe. But you can also make bowls using the router! All you need is a template for the desired shape and a pattern bit to remove the stock. And fortunately Eagle America has holiday-themed kits for making some incredibly cool bowls. These make great gifts and they are super easy to make. The video shows you not only how to make a router bowl, but also how to deal with really wide stock. You&amp;apos;ve heard me discuss my &amp;quot;hybrid&amp;quot; approach to woodworking (using both and and power tools)? Well this is an excellent example. Frequently, when I have stock that is too wide for my jointer, I use a hand plane to mostly-flatten one side. Once the piece sits stable on a flat surface, I can let my power planer do the rest of the work. Its a great technique and doesn&amp;apos;t require excessive time and effort with the hand tools. Topics Covered:Milling wide boards using the &amp;quot;hybrid&amp;quot; method.The templates available from EagleAmerica.com.Using a forstner bit to hog out the bulk of the material.Using a special pattern bit to finalize the inside shape of the bowl.Bandsawing to the outside shape of the bowl.Techniques for sanding the bowl and easing the edges. Finishing the bowl with a water-based varnish.Purchasing the following products will help support the show:Contoured Profile Sanding GripsSand curves, corners, uneven surfaces and hard-to-reach spots. Now you can reach into concave curves that once would have eluded you.Contoured Profile Sanding GripsHalloween Bowl &amp;amp; Tray TemplatesThe candy, chips and cheeses won&amp;apos;t look any better than this. Impress family and friends at your upcoming gatherings with hand made serving bowls and trays that you made with your router. Halloween Bowl &amp;amp; Tray TemplatesGlue RollerSpread glue the fast and easy way using this inexpensive roller. 4&amp;quot; Glue Roller</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>When most of us think of a wooden bowl, we think of the lathe. But you can also make bowls using the router! All you need is a template for the desired shape and a pattern bit to remove the stock. And fortunately Eagle America has holiday-themed kits for making some incredibly cool bowls. These make great gifts and they are super easy to make. The video shows you not only how to make a router bowl, but also how to deal with really wide stock. You&amp;apos;ve heard me discuss my &amp;quot;hybrid&amp;quot; approach to woodworking (using both and and power tools)? Well this is an excellent example. Frequently, when I have stock that is too wide for my jointer, I use a hand plane to mostly-flatten one side. Once the piece sits stable on a flat surface, I can let my power planer do the rest of the work. Its a great technique and doesn&amp;apos;t require excessive time and effort with the hand tools. Topics Covered:Milling wide boards using the &amp;quot;hybrid&amp;quot; method.The templates available from EagleAmerica.com.Using a forstner bit to hog out the bulk of the material.Using a special pattern bit to finalize the inside shape of the bowl.Bandsawing to the outside shape of the bowl.Techniques for sanding the bowl and easing the edges. Finishing the bowl with a water-based varnish.Purchasing the following products will help support the show:Contoured Profile Sanding GripsSand curves, corners, uneven surfaces and hard-to-reach spots. Now you can reach into concave curves that once would have eluded you.Contoured Profile Sanding GripsHalloween Bowl &amp;amp; Tray TemplatesThe candy, chips and cheeses won&amp;apos;t look any better than this. Impress family and friends at your upcoming gatherings with hand made serving bowls and trays that you made with your router. Halloween Bowl &amp;amp; Tray TemplatesGlue RollerSpread glue the fast and easy way using this inexpensive roller. 4&amp;quot; Glue Roller</description>
      <itunes:duration>1564</itunes:duration>
      <comments>http://blip.tv/file/4259633</comments>
      <category>Educational</category>
      <category>woodworking</category>
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      <category>bowl</category>
      <pubDate>Mon, 18 Oct 2010 05:22:17 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>After taking a couple days to catch up on stuff, I am finally ready to share my Woodworking in America experience with you. This was my first WIA and my expectations were building all year long. I even vowed to skip IWF (the big tool show in Atlanta), just to make sure I could focus all my attention on this education-focused conference. And am I ever glad I did! The Marketplace The show consists of two main areas: a marketplace and the educational sessions. The marketplace was approximately the same size as the show floor at the traveling woodworking shows, only the vendors here were much more engaged and of a higher caliber. Even if you didn&amp;apos;t attend a single session, you could get some quality hands-on right on the marketplace floor! Somehow, I managed not to spend a dime but many of my comrades weren&amp;apos;t so lucky. In fact, I wound up helping some folks spend their hard-earned cash. And while the marketplace could easily eat up a full day, I filled most of my time with the sessions upstairs. The Sessions I originally had a nice schedule set up, but its amazing how quickly that all changes when you start meeting up with friends and going to sessions together. Here are some of the highlights from the sessions I attended: Michael Fortune: I went to Michael&amp;apos;s discussion on cutting veneer. The funny thing about a class like this is that there is very little discussion about actually cutting veneer. 95% of the talk is about setting up your bandsaw. Obviously you won&amp;apos;t get very far if your bandsaw isn&amp;apos;t set up properly. I enjoyed hearing Michael&amp;apos;s perspective on the bandsaw and some of the things he considers to be myths. These are things that directly conflict with some of the conventional wisdom that I learned from some very knowledgeable folks, like David Marks. It just goes to show you that there is always room for more than one right way to do something. To sum up, Michael says that by using low tension and setting the blade in the middle of the tire, there should be no need to adjust for the drift of the blade. And if you use an aggressive blade for resawing, a 1/3HP machine should be powerful enough for just about any resaw task. He also says the whole coplaner wheel thing is crap. This talk truly made me re-examine a number of things I simply accepted as fact. Frank Klausz: Frank&amp;apos;s demonstration was on the secret mitered dovetail. I don&amp;apos;t have a picture but I&amp;apos;ll try to explain this. Imaging a drawer with a mitered corner. But behind that miter, hidden inside is a set of dovetails. The process involves cutting a short miter into the adjoining piece first, then cutting a half-blind dovetail inside the new edge. Sounds more complicated than it is but Frank&amp;apos;s humor and accent would make watching him play a game of ball in a cup fun and entertaining. I&amp;apos;m half Hungarian so maybe that&amp;apos;s why I like him so much. Anyway, after watching the demonstration, I turned to my buddy Aaron Marshall and asked him if he would ever bother. Imagine going through the trouble of cutting a dovetail by hand only to hide it behind a miter joint? Luckily, a passerby overheard the discussion and explained that a real practical use for it would be in a bracket foot. You don&amp;apos;t want anything more than a miter visible from the outside, but a dovetail would give the foot tremendous strength. The light bulb went off! Makes perfect sense. Thanks random woodworking dude! George Walker: You guys have heard me talk about George many times by now. I love how he teaches design. But after watching his DVDs, most of the session was review for me. He covered all the standard ratio business and classic forms and all that jazz. He also went into some detail on the use of dividers, which works very nicely with my personal adherence to Relative Dimensioning. The most compelling part of the session for me was when an audience member asked George to address the Golden Rectangle and how it relates to the whole number ratios. After all, the Golden Ratio is NOT a whole number ratio. George&amp;apos;s answer was pretty straight forward. He basically said that the Golden Ratio is sexy to talk about, but if you really look at old furniture and forms, you&amp;apos;ll see that the prevalence of whole number ratios is undeniable. He had many examples to support his position. Good stuff!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>After taking a couple days to catch up on stuff, I am finally ready to share my Woodworking in America experience with you. This was my first WIA and my expectations were building all year long. I even vowed to skip IWF (the big tool show in Atlanta), just to make sure I could focus all my attention on this education-focused conference. And am I ever glad I did! The Marketplace The show consists of two main areas: a marketplace and the educational sessions. The marketplace was approximately the same size as the show floor at the traveling woodworking shows, only the vendors here were much more engaged and of a higher caliber. Even if you didn&amp;apos;t attend a single session, you could get some quality hands-on right on the marketplace floor! Somehow, I managed not to spend a dime but many of my comrades weren&amp;apos;t so lucky. In fact, I wound up helping some folks spend their hard-earned cash. And while the marketplace could easily eat up a full day, I filled most of my time with the sessions upstairs. The Sessions I originally had a nice schedule set up, but its amazing how quickly that all changes when you start meeting up with friends and going to sessions together. Here are some of the highlights from the sessions I attended: Michael Fortune: I went to Michael&amp;apos;s discussion on cutting veneer. The funny thing about a class like this is that there is very little discussion about actually cutting veneer. 95% of the talk is about setting up your bandsaw. Obviously you won&amp;apos;t get very far if your bandsaw isn&amp;apos;t set up properly. I enjoyed hearing Michael&amp;apos;s perspective on the bandsaw and some of the things he considers to be myths. These are things that directly conflict with some of the conventional wisdom that I learned from some very knowledgeable folks, like David Marks. It just goes to show you that there is always room for more than one right way to do something. To sum up, Michael says that by using low tension and setting the blade in the middle of the tire, there should be no need to adjust for the drift of the blade. And if you use an aggressive blade for resawing, a 1/3HP machine should be powerful enough for just about any resaw task. He also says the whole coplaner wheel thing is crap. This talk truly made me re-examine a number of things I simply accepted as fact. Frank Klausz: Frank&amp;apos;s demonstration was on the secret mitered dovetail. I don&amp;apos;t have a picture but I&amp;apos;ll try to explain this. Imaging a drawer with a mitered corner. But behind that miter, hidden inside is a set of dovetails. The process involves cutting a short miter into the adjoining piece first, then cutting a half-blind dovetail inside the new edge. Sounds more complicated than it is but Frank&amp;apos;s humor and accent would make watching him play a game of ball in a cup fun and entertaining. I&amp;apos;m half Hungarian so maybe that&amp;apos;s why I like him so much. Anyway, after watching the demonstration, I turned to my buddy Aaron Marshall and asked him if he would ever bother. Imagine going through the trouble of cutting a dovetail by hand only to hide it behind a miter joint? Luckily, a passerby overheard the discussion and explained that a real practical use for it would be in a bracket foot. You don&amp;apos;t want anything more than a miter visible from the outside, but a dovetail would give the foot tremendous strength. The light bulb went off! Makes perfect sense. Thanks random woodworking dude! George Walker: You guys have heard me talk about George many times by now. I love how he teaches design. But after watching his DVDs, most of the session was review for me. He covered all the standard ratio business and classic forms and all that jazz. He also went into some detail on the use of dividers, which works very nicely with my personal adherence to Relative Dimensioning. The most compelling part of the session for me was when an audience member asked George to address the Golden Rectangle and how it relates to the whole number ratios. After all, the Golden Ratio is NOT a whole number ratio. George&amp;apos;s answer was pretty straight forward. He basically said that the Golden Ratio is sexy to talk about, but if you really look at old furniture and forms, you&amp;apos;ll see that the prevalence of whole number ratios is undeniable. He had many examples to support his position. Good stuff!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>I have heard countless times that you should never put polyurethane over waxed shellac. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD&amp;#8217;s, the message is always the same. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Now I have always taken the &amp;#8220;better safe than sorry&amp;#8221; route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. But there have been so many occasions where I have heard of people accidentally using waxed shellac under polyurethane with no detrimental effects. And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. So what&amp;#8217;s the deal? To answer that question, I decided to do a little experiment for myself. I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. There are just too many variables at play to answer this question with any real degree of certainty. But my results gave me enough confidence to say that if you are using the finish as a sealer coat (2lb cut or less), I see no reason not to use whatever shellac you have on hand, even if it has wax in it. This is a topic that I will continue to watch. And hopefully we&amp;#8217;ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. **EDIT** It was immediately suggested that I do a Scotch Tape lift test. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. Using both duct tape and Scotch tape over a grid work of slices made with an X-acto knife, no lifting of the finish was observed on any of the boards. I even put tape over the area where the epoxy drops were and no lifting was observed there either. These finishes are holding on for dear life!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>I have heard countless times that you should never put polyurethane over waxed shellac. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD&amp;#8217;s, the message is always the same. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Now I have always taken the &amp;#8220;better safe than sorry&amp;#8221; route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. But there have been so many occasions where I have heard of people accidentally using waxed shellac under polyurethane with no detrimental effects. And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. So what&amp;#8217;s the deal? To answer that question, I decided to do a little experiment for myself. I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. There are just too many variables at play to answer this question with any real degree of certainty. But my results gave me enough confidence to say that if you are using the finish as a sealer coat (2lb cut or less), I see no reason not to use whatever shellac you have on hand, even if it has wax in it. This is a topic that I will continue to watch. And hopefully we&amp;#8217;ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. **EDIT** It was immediately suggested that I do a Scotch Tape lift test. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. Using both duct tape and Scotch tape over a grid work of slices made with an X-acto knife, no lifting of the finish was observed on any of the boards. I even put tape over the area where the epoxy drops were and no lifting was observed there either. These finishes are holding on for dear life!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Whenever I lay out my project parts in rough lumber, I find that there are 5 things that I always try to keep in mind. This video is a quick excerpt of those five tips from the Chest of Drawers Guild Build. And yes, this is clearly an advertisement for the Wood Whisperer Guild. But hey, if I am going to advertise to you I sure as heck should put something useful in there for you to enjoy. Sign up today and receive 15% off your 6-month or 1-year membership. Simply use coupon code WOODNERD at checkout.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>In the past, I&amp;apos;ve discussed how shop improvements are never done. As our needs and tool preferences change, the shop has to be able to adjust accordingly. If not, you will likely be faced with an inefficient and potentially unsafe work environment. If you can believe it, its already been over a year since Nicole and I moved into our new house. And for those that don&amp;apos;t know, we are indeed still carrying two mortgages. So the &amp;quot;dream shop&amp;quot; must wait. But until then I will continue to improve this space and make it as comfortable and efficient as possible. This video shows some of the areas I am frustrated with and what I plan to do to improve them. Here are some links from the past that involve the evolution of my shop: Article - Evolution of a Workshop Article - My Humble Beginnings Video - October 2009 Shop Tour Video - A Moving Experience Video - Updated Shop Tour Video - The King and His Castle</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>While building my 6-panel cabinet recently (pictured left), I decided to capture the process of mortising for a butt hinge. With a router, a small straight bit, a chisel, and some careful layout, you&amp;#8217;ll find mortising for hinges to be fun and easy. These simple tips will make the process much easier: - Create some sort of story stick for repeatability. - Use a marking gauge and knife to scribe the hinge locations for ultimate accuracy. - Use a router remove the bulk of the material at a consistent depth. - Use a sharp chisel to fine-tune the fit.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>While building my 6-panel cabinet recently (pictured left), I decided to capture the process of mortising for a butt hinge. With a router, a small straight bit, a chisel, and some careful layout, you&amp;#8217;ll find mortising for hinges to be fun and easy. These simple tips will make the process much easier: - Create some sort of story stick for repeatability. - Use a marking gauge and knife to scribe the hinge locations for ultimate accuracy. - Use a router remove the bulk of the material at a consistent depth. - Use a sharp chisel to fine-tune the fit.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Right Click to Download Right Click to Download in HD Guild members will remember this small excerpt from the Shaker Table series. Its just a taste of some of the fun we have in the Guild. Sign up now and get 15% off your membership. Dovetails: very few joints are held in such high regard. Not sure why exactly, but there seems to be a nearly universal love and adoration for this flying vermin-inspired interlocking joint. And I don&amp;apos;t care what anyone says, doves are just dirty pigeons in a lighter-colored outfit. To be fair though, the joint is beautiful, incredibly strong, and requires skill and attention to detail to cut by hand. One of the most common variations of the dovetail is known as a half-blind dovetail. You&amp;apos;ll find this joint most often on drawer fronts where you don&amp;apos;t necessarily want to see the joint from the front. With a few tools, a little know-how, and a lot of patience, this beloved joint is well within your grasp. And speaking of patience, what&amp;apos;s the rush people?!?! It seems like some folks feel that if they aren&amp;apos;t cutting their dovetails in three minutes, they aren&amp;apos;t doing it correctly. I say put the breaks on and enjoy the process. After all, isn&amp;apos;t that why you&amp;apos;re cutting them by hand? If I wanted them cut in just a few minutes, I&amp;apos;d keep a dedicated jig set up and knock them out with my router. Take your time.....be one with the wood...... If you want to see how to cut dovetails with a jig, check out When Dovetails Cry.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Right Click to Download Right Click to Download in HD Guild members will remember this small excerpt from the Shaker Table series. Its just a taste of some of the fun we have in the Guild. Sign up now and get 15% off your membership. Dovetails: very few joints are held in such high regard. Not sure why exactly, but there seems to be a nearly universal love and adoration for this flying vermin-inspired interlocking joint. And I don&amp;apos;t care what anyone says, doves are just dirty pigeons in a lighter-colored outfit. To be fair though, the joint is beautiful, incredibly strong, and requires skill and attention to detail to cut by hand. One of the most common variations of the dovetail is known as a half-blind dovetail. You&amp;apos;ll find this joint most often on drawer fronts where you don&amp;apos;t necessarily want to see the joint from the front. With a few tools, a little know-how, and a lot of patience, this beloved joint is well within your grasp. And speaking of patience, what&amp;apos;s the rush people?!?! It seems like some folks feel that if they aren&amp;apos;t cutting their dovetails in three minutes, they aren&amp;apos;t doing it correctly. I say put the breaks on and enjoy the process. After all, isn&amp;apos;t that why you&amp;apos;re cutting them by hand? If I wanted them cut in just a few minutes, I&amp;apos;d keep a dedicated jig set up and knock them out with my router. Take your time.....be one with the wood...... If you want to see how to cut dovetails with a jig, check out When Dovetails Cry.</description>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 02 Jul 2010 18:06:53 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>You can reach us by email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450. ;</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>You can reach us by email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450. ;</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Airless sprayers</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>During my recent shop healing session, I realized I needed a better way to store my drills and chargers. This simple wall-hanging &amp;quot;box&amp;quot; did the trick. I also wanted to make the project fast and easy, so I decided to try out the DowelMax for the first time. The system is a breeze to use and produces strong reliable joints in just a fraction of the time it takes to create a traditional mortise and tenon. Fee free to download the SketchUp Drawing for this project if you want to make your own. But I encourage you to use this as a starting point and build upon it. If I had more time and space, I definitely would have added a few drawers for additional storage. Also, be sure to check out the new Enduro-Var Water-Based Urethane I used on this project. Topics Covered:Construction of a simple charging station.Use of the DowelMax system.Clever solution for charging batteries safely.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>In March, the Guild will be embarking on our very first &amp;quot;Guild Build&amp;quot;: a simple Shaker end-table. I am dedicating the entire event to Guild-member Duane Moore. You remember Duane right? He&amp;apos;s the guy from the Steamer Trunk Series. Duane received some difficult news recently concerning his battle with cancer, and I am doing everything I can to help out. For every Guild member who builds this table, and sends me a picture of the finished product, I will donate $5 to the American Cancer Society. Now if you would like to help out, but you aren&amp;apos;t interested in joining the Guild, we have included a donation button below. Please spread the word about this event. This isn&amp;#8217;t just about woodworking as a job or hobby, its about woodworking as a lifestyle, and woodworking as a Community. I want people to be inspired by what our woodworking community is doing, and perhaps even contribute to the cause themselves.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>This is a Wood Whisperer first: a series featuring an aspiring luthier, Rick Urschel. Rick takes us through the process of building a classic guitar from a kit available at LMII.com. This is Rick&amp;#8217;s first attempt at a guitar, and as such, I am not presenting this as a &amp;#8220;how-to&amp;#8221;. Instead, this is just one man&amp;#8217;s experience as he works his butt off making a beautiful guitar for his wife. I think you are really going to enjoy it. A special thanks to Rick for allowing me to &amp;#8220;Whisperize&amp;#8221; his content!</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Oil-based finishes are typically the first type of finish we confront as woodworkers, be it straight oil or a can polyurethane. Although they are all derived from oil, these finishes can vary widely in terms of application method, durability, and maintenance. The key to understanding these finishes is to understand their ingredients. With that foundation in your tool belt, you can start looking at ingredients lists instead of brand names and labels, and you&amp;apos;ll know exactly what to expect from the finish. Since this is a live session, we have a bunch of viewer questions in the video as well. Topics include:What is oil?What is varnish?What is the relationship between varnish and polyurethane?The relative durability of oils, varnishes, and oil/varnish blends.How to see past marketing jargon.Why I like Arm-R-Seal.Products discussed in the video:General Finishes Arm-R-SealRockler&amp;apos;s Tung OilTimbermate Wood FillerTru-Oil</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Oil-based finishes are typically the first type of finish we confront as woodworkers, be it straight oil or a can polyurethane. Although they are all derived from oil, these finishes can vary widely in terms of application method, durability, and maintenance. The key to understanding these finishes is to understand their ingredients. With that foundation in your tool belt, you can start looking at ingredients lists instead of brand names and labels, and you&amp;apos;ll know exactly what to expect from the finish. Since this is a live session, we have a bunch of viewer questions in the video as well. Topics include:What is oil?What is varnish?What is the relationship between varnish and polyurethane?The relative durability of oils, varnishes, and oil/varnish blends.How to see past marketing jargon.Why I like Arm-R-Seal.Products discussed in the video:General Finishes Arm-R-SealRockler&amp;apos;s Tung OilTimbermate Wood FillerTru-Oil</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>How to make your own Frech Cleat wall storage system.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Its that time of year again: HOLIDAY PROJECT TIME! So this year, I decided to make a few little keepsake boxes, thanks to some advice from The Great WOODini. I also took inspiration from a box Nicole keeps on her nightstand and developed a new design that is much more practical for the average woodworker to make. The boxes feature a secret locking pin. Once removed, the lid slides off on a sliding dovetail. And as always with these holiday gift projects, you can modify them by trying different sizes, shapes, and wood species to make your own one-of-a-kind box. And since they are so easy to make, its no problem batching out a bunch of them in a single weekend. If you decide to make some, please send me pics of your variations. Topics Covered: Creating sliding dovetails Using a dowel-centering pin to locate holes Cutting a recess with a pattern bit Sanding end-grain Circle Templates - $32.99This template set has been incredibly useful for numerous projects including these keepsake boxes and the Contemporary Clock Project from last year.GRR-Ripper&amp;#8482; Adjustable Push Block - $59.99The GRR-Ripper is the fancy push block you see me using in this video. Incredibly useful and gives you ultimate control of the workpiece!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Its that time of year again: HOLIDAY PROJECT TIME! So this year, I decided to make a few little keepsake boxes, thanks to some advice from The Great WOODini. I also took inspiration from a box Nicole keeps on her nightstand and developed a new design that is much more practical for the average woodworker to make. The boxes feature a secret locking pin. Once removed, the lid slides off on a sliding dovetail. And as always with these holiday gift projects, you can modify them by trying different sizes, shapes, and wood species to make your own one-of-a-kind box. And since they are so easy to make, its no problem batching out a bunch of them in a single weekend. If you decide to make some, please send me pics of your variations. Topics Covered: Creating sliding dovetails Using a dowel-centering pin to locate holes Cutting a recess with a pattern bit Sanding end-grain Circle Templates - $32.99This template set has been incredibly useful for numerous projects including these keepsake boxes and the Contemporary Clock Project from last year.GRR-Ripper&amp;#8482; Adjustable Push Block - $59.99The GRR-Ripper is the fancy push block you see me using in this video. Incredibly useful and gives you ultimate control of the workpiece!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>A tour of my new temporary shop.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>An introduction to the wonderful world of flush trim bits!</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Nicole and I thought it would be fun to celebrate the show&amp;#8217;s 3rd anniversary by going back to Episode 1, and making fun of everything I say. Actually it was quite interesting to observe the state of woodworking content at the time and compare it to what we have today. Hard to believe the difference three years makes! But its been a hell of a journey and we can&amp;#8217;t wait to see what the next three years brings!</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Nicole and I thought it would be fun to celebrate the show&amp;#8217;s 3rd anniversary by going back to Episode 1, and making fun of everything I say. Actually it was quite interesting to observe the state of woodworking content at the time and compare it to what we have today. Hard to believe the difference three years makes! But its been a hell of a journey and we can&amp;#8217;t wait to see what the next three years brings!</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>In the final part of this series, I assemble and attach the base, install the handles, and apply the final finish to the top. This project was an incredible learning experience, and not in the way you might think. I actually found it incredibly challenging to step back from my primary shop tools, and focus only on the portable power tools. Not only did I find new ways of doing things, but I have a new found appreciation for the tools I have been taking granted for years. But hopefully you&amp;apos;ll see now that even with a very basic set of tools, you can still produce high quality furniture. A few of the topics covered in this part: Constructing the base.Gluing up miters using the tape trick.Attaching the base using pocket screws.Attaching the custom handles.Mini Kreg Jig and Kit - $19.99 This is a less expensive and simpler version of the jig I used on the show. The kit contains the jig, a pocket hole bit and a stop collar. Check it out!A Simple Varnish Finish DVD - $19.99 I mentioned my finishing DVD in the video, so here&amp;apos;s a quick link for anyone who might be interested. A Simple Varnish Finish**New Project Plan!!** If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>In the final part of this series, I assemble and attach the base, install the handles, and apply the final finish to the top. This project was an incredible learning experience, and not in the way you might think. I actually found it incredibly challenging to step back from my primary shop tools, and focus only on the portable power tools. Not only did I find new ways of doing things, but I have a new found appreciation for the tools I have been taking granted for years. But hopefully you&amp;apos;ll see now that even with a very basic set of tools, you can still produce high quality furniture. A few of the topics covered in this part: Constructing the base.Gluing up miters using the tape trick.Attaching the base using pocket screws.Attaching the custom handles.Mini Kreg Jig and Kit - $19.99 This is a less expensive and simpler version of the jig I used on the show. The kit contains the jig, a pocket hole bit and a stop collar. Check it out!A Simple Varnish Finish DVD - $19.99 I mentioned my finishing DVD in the video, so here&amp;apos;s a quick link for anyone who might be interested. A Simple Varnish Finish**New Project Plan!!** If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>An important aspect of building furniture that many new woodworkers overlook, is the importance of finishing BEFORE the project is completely glued together. That&amp;apos;s the primary focus of this part of the series. A few of the topics covered in this part: How to deal with color differences between plywood and solid wood trim.Raising the grain and applying water-based dyes.Theory and application of wiping varnish. Creating shelf pin holes for adjustable shelving.Applying angled trim to the shelves.Final glueup and clamping strategy.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>An important aspect of building furniture that many new woodworkers overlook, is the importance of finishing BEFORE the project is completely glued together. That&amp;apos;s the primary focus of this part of the series. A few of the topics covered in this part: How to deal with color differences between plywood and solid wood trim.Raising the grain and applying water-based dyes.Theory and application of wiping varnish. Creating shelf pin holes for adjustable shelving.Applying angled trim to the shelves.Final glueup and clamping strategy.</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>A few of the topics covered in this part: Gluing trim pieces.Using biscuits.Clamping strategies.Using a wood filler to hide miter flaws. Cutting the big bevels on the top and bottom trim.Sanding.Dry assembly strategy.Measuring and cutting the back panels.Initial glueup.**New Project Plan!!** If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.And this is the filler I recommended in the video. If you&amp;apos;ve had bad experiences with fillers in the past, you really need to give this stuff a shot. Shopping through this affiliate link will also help out the show.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>What&amp;apos;s on the Bench?Marc has been repairing chairs and just finished up a couple Guild projects (magazine rack and the knife block).Matt tells us about his trip to Woodworking in America and he finally finished his wife&amp;apos;s bookcase.Around the Web:Clark sent us some great Puzzle Box Links.Bruce VineyYouTube Puzzle Video 1YouTube Puzzle Video 2Twitter Facebook Tips:@treefrogfurnitu - Dull tools are dangerous tools@SplinteredBoard - Don&amp;apos;t route end grain and slice open your hand@RenaissanceWW - leave your checkbook at home when going to the marketplace at WIA@chwmag -</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>What&amp;apos;s on the Bench?Marc has been repairing chairs and just finished up a couple Guild projects (magazine rack and the knife block).Matt tells us about his trip to Woodworking in America and he finally finished his wife&amp;apos;s bookcase.Around the Web:Clark sent us some great Puzzle Box Links.Bruce VineyYouTube Puzzle Video 1YouTube Puzzle Video 2Twitter Facebook Tips:@treefrogfurnitu - Dull tools are dangerous tools@SplinteredBoard - Don&amp;apos;t route end grain and slice open your hand@RenaissanceWW - leave your checkbook at home when going to the marketplace at WIA@chwmag -</description>
      <itunes:duration>3595</itunes:duration>
      <comments>http://blip.tv/file/2586469</comments>
      <category>Educational</category>
      <category>woodworking</category>
      <pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2009 15:10:12 +0000</pubDate>
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      <title>Low Entertainment Center (Pt 2)</title>
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      <blip:puredescription>If there is one major negative aspect to working with plywood and other sheetgoods, its the fact that we have to deal with the ugly exposed edges. But with a little know-how and some strips of wood, you can dress up the edges so that only a trained eye can tell that the board is not completely made of solid wood. A few of the topics covered in this part: Edge-banding options.Sources for solid wood edge-banding.Attaching edgbanding to sheetgoods and trimming it flush with the surface.Cutting grooves and rabbets for the back panels with a router and edge guide.Using an inexpensive miter box.**New Plan** If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>If there is one major negative aspect to working with plywood and other sheetgoods, its the fact that we have to deal with the ugly exposed edges. But with a little know-how and some strips of wood, you can dress up the edges so that only a trained eye can tell that the board is not completely made of solid wood. A few of the topics covered in this part: Edge-banding options.Sources for solid wood edge-banding.Attaching edgbanding to sheetgoods and trimming it flush with the surface.Cutting grooves and rabbets for the back panels with a router and edge guide.Using an inexpensive miter box.**New Plan** If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.</description>
      <itunes:duration>1254</itunes:duration>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Sep 2009 01:35:46 +0000</pubDate>
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      <blip:puredescription>Think you can&amp;apos;t build furniture because you only have a few basic tools? Well, check this out! This walnut low entertainment center was built using three primary tools: a circular saw, a router, and a drill. But that doesn&amp;apos;t mean I skimped on quality and design. The unit has sliding doors, good ventilation, a little shelf in the back for a surge protector, and all of the trim is beveled at an angle for a more interesting visual effect (even the trim on the shelves features this bevel). This video series is full of tips and tricks that will help you get professional results from these simple power tools! A few of the topics covered in this part: Cutting down sheet goods.Using a guide with your circular sawThe cheapest long rip guide on the planet.Plywood thicknesses.Cutting dados and grooves with the router.Fixing a dado that was cut through when it should have been &amp;quot;stopped&amp;quot; Chiseling the stopped dados square.</blip:puredescription>
      <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
      <blip:categories>
        <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
        <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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      <description>Think you can&amp;apos;t build furniture because you only have a few basic tools? Well, check this out! This walnut low entertainment center was built using three primary tools: a circular saw, a router, and a drill. But that doesn&amp;apos;t mean I skimped on quality and design. The unit has sliding doors, good ventilation, a little shelf in the back for a surge protector, and all of the trim is beveled at an angle for a more interesting visual effect (even the trim on the shelves features this bevel). This video series is full of tips and tricks that will help you get professional results from these simple power tools! A few of the topics covered in this part: Cutting down sheet goods.Using a guide with your circular sawThe cheapest long rip guide on the planet.Plywood thicknesses.Cutting dados and grooves with the router.Fixing a dado that was cut through when it should have been &amp;quot;stopped&amp;quot; Chiseling the stopped dados square.</description>
      <itunes:duration>1356</itunes:duration>
      <comments>http://blip.tv/file/2483442</comments>
      <category>Educational</category>
      <category>woodworking</category>
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      <pubDate>Mon, 17 Aug 2009 08:19:48 +0000</pubDate>
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      <media:title>Low Entertainment Center (Pt. 1)</media:title>
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      <blip:puredescription>&amp;quot;The 2009 Fresh Wood Student Competition highlights outstanding construction and design achievements by students from the best high school and post-secondary woodworking programs in North America.&amp;quot; That&amp;apos;s according to the AWFS website. But the display is so much more. There were so many fantastic pieces on display and I couldn&amp;apos;t film them all. But I got the vast majority and I hope you enjoy the footage. Some of the talent in this competition is simply mind boggling.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>&amp;quot;The 2009 Fresh Wood Student Competition highlights outstanding construction and design achievements by students from the best high school and post-secondary woodworking programs in North America.&amp;quot; That&amp;apos;s according to the AWFS website. But the display is so much more. There were so many fantastic pieces on display and I couldn&amp;apos;t film them all. But I got the vast majority and I hope you enjoy the footage. Some of the talent in this competition is simply mind boggling.</description>
      <itunes:duration>589</itunes:duration>
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      <category>Educational</category>
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      <blip:puredescription>Grand Slam Tools is a small company run by fellow podcaster Tommy MacDonald. Their initial offering of products include high quality wooden marking gauges, baseball bat mallets, and paring blocks. You can buy the items separately or in a 4-pack to save a few bucks. Check out all their offerings at: MajorLeagueWoodworking.com</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>AWFS is always a blast, even though this year we could see the effects of the economy in both corporate presence and attendance. But there were still some great products to see. In this video, you&amp;apos;ll see the following demos: Rockler: Portable CrossCut Sled, Tapering Jig, Fluting Jig, Box Joint Jig, Bench Cookies, BBQ set, Torsion Hinges Tenryu: Miter Blade Technology, Festool Blades, Silencer series, Gold Medal Dado Set Kreg: Beaded Faceframe System DeWalt: New Lithium Ion Battery technology SawStop: Professional Grade Tablesaw</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>We just got back from another great AWFS Fair in Las Vegas. If you aren&amp;apos;t familiar, AWFS is the Association of Woodworking &amp;amp; Furnishings Suppliers and its a show that occurs every other year at the Las Vegas Convention Center. This is just a quick video to give you an idea of what the show is like. Booths and product displays as far as the eye can see and lots of neat stuff to drool over. I even have some footage of the all wood sports car, &amp;quot;The Splinter&amp;quot;, as well as a quick look at the Belt Sander Races. And as if that wasn&amp;apos;t enough, the one and only Matt Vanderlist from Matt&amp;apos;s Basement Workshop makes a guest appearance at the end of the video! Tool demos and the student furniture exhibit will soon follow.</blip:puredescription>
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      <blip:puredescription>Krylon recently released a line of exterior wood stains in spray form. A very convenient way to transfer color to your outdoor projects! I sprayed 6 different test boards (maple and white oak) just to see how well the stain applies. Watch the video to see the results and hear my opinion of the product. If you want more information, check out SaveOurSaturdays.com</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Krylon recently released a line of exterior wood stains in spray form. A very convenient way to transfer color to your outdoor projects! I sprayed 6 different test boards (maple and white oak) just to see how well the stain applies. Watch the video to see the results and hear my opinion of the product. If you want more information, check out SaveOurSaturdays.com</description>
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      <blip:puredescription>Moving an entire wood shop is no fun. But you can save yourself a lot of back ache if you hire some help. Money well-spent if you ask me. In this episode I show you everything I did to get my shop ready for the road trip. By no means is this meant to be a guide of any sort. Rather, its just a peak into my personal experience. And if you ever have to move your own shop, you&amp;apos;ll know what you&amp;apos;re in for.</blip:puredescription>
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      <description>Moving an entire wood shop is no fun. But you can save yourself a lot of back ache if you hire some help. Money well-spent if you ask me. In this episode I show you everything I did to get my shop ready for the road trip. By no means is this meant to be a guide of any sort. Rather, its just a peak into my personal experience. And if you ever have to move your own shop, you&amp;apos;ll know what you&amp;apos;re in for.</description>
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