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<description>The video series that offers a refreshing look at an age-old craft. Marc delivers solid woodworking advice with a sense of humor. The show is funny, unapologetic, and smart.</description>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[If you&apos;re like me, you probably learned about drill bits the hard way. I started out using a basic set of standard twist bits. As I learned more about the craft and communicated with other woodworkers, I became aware of the superior brad point bit with it&apos;s sharp center point and sweet cutting spurs. I quickly ran out and purchased the first set of brad point bits I could find and for a short while, I was in woodworker&apos;s nirvana: clean, crisp holes with no tearout! But unfortunately, even brad point bits will eventually dull and overheat. It didn&apos;t help that I was being excessively frugal by purchasing the cheapest sets I could find. Further exacerbating the issue was my frequent use of dense exotic hardwoods. Eventually I got to the point that I was ready to buy a really good set of bits that wouldn&apos;t need to be replaced any time soon. After buying several sets of bits, I already spent quite a bit more than I would have if I purchased the higher quality bits to begin with. Grrr! This this leads me to the reason for posting this video in the first place. Like me, many of you are ready to final plunk down the cash to get a set of bits that will last a good long time and stand up to years of abuse. The Carbide-Tipped Brad Point BitEnter the carbide-tipped brad point bit! I recently purchased this particular set from Lee Valley and I couldn&apos;t be happier with the results! I think I&apos;m in love! In regards to their durability, here&apos;s an excerpt from Lee Valley&apos;s sales page that explains the value of carbide-tipped bits and their relationship to High Speed Steel:&quot;High Speed Steel (HSS) drills stay sharp up to 10 times longer than carbon steel models; carbide outlasts HSS by another 10:1. These are the drills of choice for production work where you need a bit that can take continuous use.&quot; Of course, most of us aren&apos;t doing production work. But if a bit can survive for a reasonable amount of time in a production environment, imagine how long it will last in a one-person wood shop! The bits aren&apos;t cheap, ranging from $15-$25 each, but if you think about how much you&apos;ve spend on crappy bit sets over the years, you can see how you are likely to save money in the long run. Performance I put these bits to the test on the recent Dogon Platform Bed project. I had to drill numerous holes into Bubinga end grain for the bed rail hardware. The bits performed flawlessly and showed no evidence of overheating. In fact, once I wiped the dust off I couldn&apos;t even tell they had been used. So I am hoping this bit set will be with me for a good long time. So if you&apos;re one of the folks who emailed me asking for my recommendation on brad point bits, here it is. If you have recommendations for another manufacturer of good quality carbide-tipped brad point bits, please feel free to leave it in the comments section.]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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    <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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<br />

If you&apos;re like me, you probably learned about drill bits the hard way. I started out using a basic set of standard twist bits. As I learned more about the craft and communicated with other woodworkers, I became aware of the superior brad point bit with it&apos;s sharp center point and sweet cutting spurs. I quickly ran out and purchased the first set of brad point bits I could find and for a short while, I was in woodworker&apos;s nirvana: clean, crisp holes with no tearout! But unfortunately, even brad point bits will eventually dull and overheat. It didn&apos;t help that I was being excessively frugal by purchasing the cheapest sets I could find. Further exacerbating the issue was my frequent use of dense exotic hardwoods. Eventually I got to the point that I was ready to buy a really good set of bits that wouldn&apos;t need to be replaced any time soon. After buying several sets of bits, I already spent quite a bit more than I would have if I purchased the higher quality bits to begin with. Grrr! This this leads me to the reason for posting this video in the first place. Like me, many of you are ready to final plunk down the cash to get a set of bits that will last a good long time and stand up to years of abuse. The Carbide-Tipped Brad Point BitEnter the carbide-tipped brad point bit! I recently purchased this particular set from Lee Valley and I couldn&apos;t be happier with the results! I think I&apos;m in love! In regards to their durability, here&apos;s an excerpt from Lee Valley&apos;s sales page that explains the value of carbide-tipped bits and their relationship to High Speed Steel:&quot;High Speed Steel (HSS) drills stay sharp up to 10 times longer than carbon steel models; carbide outlasts HSS by another 10:1. These are the drills of choice for production work where you need a bit that can take continuous use.&quot; Of course, most of us aren&apos;t doing production work. But if a bit can survive for a reasonable amount of time in a production environment, imagine how long it will last in a one-person wood shop! The bits aren&apos;t cheap, ranging from $15-$25 each, but if you think about how much you&apos;ve spend on crappy bit sets over the years, you can see how you are likely to save money in the long run. Performance I put these bits to the test on the recent Dogon Platform Bed project. I had to drill numerous holes into Bubinga end grain for the bed rail hardware. The bits performed flawlessly and showed no evidence of overheating. In fact, once I wiped the dust off I couldn&apos;t even tell they had been used. So I am hoping this bit set will be with me for a good long time. So if you&apos;re one of the folks who emailed me asking for my recommendation on brad point bits, here it is. If you have recommendations for another manufacturer of good quality carbide-tipped brad point bits, please feel free to leave it in the comments section.

]]></description>
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  <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jan 2013 22:37:29 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Just one example of why you should eat a lot of pasta!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Just one example of why you should eat a lot of pasta!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[How to modify a cross-cut sled for repetitive cuts on long boards.]]></blip:puredescription>
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How to modify a cross-cut sled for repetitive cuts on long boards.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The December giveaways and a visit from the Woodworking Rock Star!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The December giveaways and a visit from the Woodworking Rock Star!

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A close look at the new fence system from Very Super Cool Tools.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[How to make a kitchen knife block.]]></blip:puredescription>
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How to make a kitchen knife block.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[For the last few years, Popular Woodworking has been publishing numerous projects within their I Can Do That series. The idea is to provide straightforward project plans that just about anybody can do with a basic set of tools. Back in 2009, with Popular Woodworking&apos;s permission, I decided to build a few of these projects for our Guild members. So this video shows you how to build the Wall-Hanging Magazine Rack, designed by Glen Huey. And because I don&apos;t like to leave well enough alone, I&apos;ll also show you an alternative version of the magazine rack that employs a few of my personal design changes. Please note that this video was originally filmed in 2009. I was working out of a very crowded garage at the time in hopes of proceeding with my Dream Shop build. That was just days before the sale of our old house fell through and everything went to crap. So don&apos;t be confused by the appearance of an old shop space. The Dream Shop wasn&apos;t really a dream and it does exist. Ha! Pocket Screw Construction If you are a fan of The Wood Whisperer, you probably know that I don&apos;t make use of pocket screws very often. I don&apos;t begrudge anyone who uses them as primary form of joinery. It&apos;s just my personal preference not to. But my goal with my website has never been to recruit you into MY way of doing things. Instead, I want to show you as many ways as possible to get the job done. Once you are armed with that information, you can make an educated decision on the tools and techniques you want to use. So this project makes extensive use of pocket screw joinery and I spend a great deal of time explaining the entire process. Design Changes Glen Huey&apos;s original design was fairly straightforward and does a great job of holding a large numer of magazines in a small space. The changes I made to my version were not only visual, but also functional. First, I wanted a little more knuckle clearance for removing magazines. You&apos;ll see I added a slight curve on the bottom of each shelf for this reason, which also happens to look pretty cool. Second was the fact that I want to see more of each magazine. To do this, I decided to take away the front support boards and replace them with two pieces of metal dowel stock. This supports the magazines just as effectively but also allows me to see the title and some of the magazine&apos;s cover content. I also added a slight curve at the top of each side piece, just to take away some of the blockiness. This is a fun weekend project that I&apos;m sure you&apos;ll enjoy. Why not make a few at a time and give them away as gifts!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

For the last few years, Popular Woodworking has been publishing numerous projects within their I Can Do That series. The idea is to provide straightforward project plans that just about anybody can do with a basic set of tools. Back in 2009, with Popular Woodworking&apos;s permission, I decided to build a few of these projects for our Guild members. So this video shows you how to build the Wall-Hanging Magazine Rack, designed by Glen Huey. And because I don&apos;t like to leave well enough alone, I&apos;ll also show you an alternative version of the magazine rack that employs a few of my personal design changes. Please note that this video was originally filmed in 2009. I was working out of a very crowded garage at the time in hopes of proceeding with my Dream Shop build. That was just days before the sale of our old house fell through and everything went to crap. So don&apos;t be confused by the appearance of an old shop space. The Dream Shop wasn&apos;t really a dream and it does exist. Ha! Pocket Screw Construction If you are a fan of The Wood Whisperer, you probably know that I don&apos;t make use of pocket screws very often. I don&apos;t begrudge anyone who uses them as primary form of joinery. It&apos;s just my personal preference not to. But my goal with my website has never been to recruit you into MY way of doing things. Instead, I want to show you as many ways as possible to get the job done. Once you are armed with that information, you can make an educated decision on the tools and techniques you want to use. So this project makes extensive use of pocket screw joinery and I spend a great deal of time explaining the entire process. Design Changes Glen Huey&apos;s original design was fairly straightforward and does a great job of holding a large numer of magazines in a small space. The changes I made to my version were not only visual, but also functional. First, I wanted a little more knuckle clearance for removing magazines. You&apos;ll see I added a slight curve on the bottom of each shelf for this reason, which also happens to look pretty cool. Second was the fact that I want to see more of each magazine. To do this, I decided to take away the front support boards and replace them with two pieces of metal dowel stock. This supports the magazines just as effectively but also allows me to see the title and some of the magazine&apos;s cover content. I also added a slight curve at the top of each side piece, just to take away some of the blockiness. This is a fun weekend project that I&apos;m sure you&apos;ll enjoy. Why not make a few at a time and give them away as gifts!

]]></description>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[How to cut cove moldings at the tablesaw using a parallelogram cove jig.]]></blip:puredescription>
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How to cut cove moldings at the tablesaw using a parallelogram cove jig.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[If you&apos;ve been following my blog posts all summer (links at the end of this write-up), you are probably as excited about this video release as I am! Welcome to the Dream Shop Build! Every woodworker (I think!) dreams of someday being able to construct their own dedicated woodworking space. To date, I have bounced around from garage to garage (about 4 times), making the best of a crappy real estate situation. And while I have been lucky to have fairly large spaces to work in, I still daydreamed about the possibility of designing a shop from the ground up, with both woodworking and video production in mind. The &quot;Perfect&quot; Shop In my opinion, the best shop space is a flexible one. I know many folks expected that after setting up my shop so many times, I would be able to design the PERFECT shop space including a finishing room, a dust collection closet, and even some internal walls. But the truth is, the most important lesson I learned over the years was to expect change. My shop is not a static entity. It is more like a living breathing creature that adapts, evolves, grows, shrinks, and changes configuration. Committing to an internal spacial arrangement too early could yield disappointing results. This is why you won&apos;t see me placing dust collection ductwork in the floor. I need to work in a space for at least a few months before I can be confident in my initial setup. Even then, I fully expect things to change at some point. If I made too many restrictive and/or permanent decisions ahead of time, these changes could be difficult or impossible to implement. So my best piece of advice is to forget about the concept of perfection. Instead, focus on flexibility. The ideal shop, in my mind, is little more than 4 walls, a roof, and a butt-load of outlets and lights. So here are some of my basic general goals for my new shop space. Size I want the shop to be big! Not only do I have a lot of tools, but I tend to frequently bring tools in for testing. As you probably know by now, I also do a lot of filming. So I need a space big enough to allow for full movement around most of the tools. My tripod has a pretty good-sized footprint and having more room allows me to get the best vantage point possible. More space will also allow me to stage larger pieces of furniture, whether for the show or for jobs I take on locally. The final size I decided on was 1800 sq. ft. Yeah, that&apos;s big! I actually balked and second guessed myself after we received the estimate from the contractor. Sure, more space is nice, but at what cost? I then asked for a second estimate, bringing the shop down to 1500 sq feet, which is still huge. As you might expect, the savings just weren&apos;t that substantial. By the time you get over 1000 sq. ft., the price per sq. ft. is really low, making it very difficult to justify down-sizing. So I bit the bullet and stayed with my original choice of 1800 sq. ft. Power The more outlets the better! I have a good mix of 220v and 110v outlets throughout the shop. I even included a few in the ceiling and the floor in hopes of avoiding power cords in the walkways. And although this contradicts my previous comments about over-committing, I picked locations that would likely work for various tool configurations. If at some point they don&apos;t work for my setup, I just won&apos;t use them. Lighting Every shop should have good lighting, whether natural or artificial. My video work dictates limited natural light, so I was sure to have plenty of overhead T8 fixtures (6500k). You&apos;ll hear me mention in the video that I was disappointed to see that the ends of the shop were just a little dark. Thankfully, I was able to get the contractor to come back in and drop in 4 more fixtures for me, two at either end. Now the light is bright, crisp, and evenly distributed from one side of the shop to the other. Just a quick note about light spectrum. I went with 6500k because that&apos;s what I like to film in. The daylight spectrum makes it easier for me if I decide to open the blinds, letting in some natural light. For the average woodworking shop, I think 5000k is probably a good choice, although some folks really enjoy the crispness of a 6500k light. But you should test them out for yourself to see what you prefer. Bathroom I have to admit that I am very easily distracted. So working from home can be very inefficient. In order to remove my primary excuse for going into the house, the shop would absolutely have to have a bathroom. As you&apos;ll see, I also included a slop sink for various shop cleaning/rinsing needs. Cost Nicole and I decided not to go public with the cost of the build. Although we are very open about most things, we are a little uncomfortable about making an expenditure of this magnitude public knowledge. Furthermore, unless you live in the Phoenix area and plan on building the same size shop with the same patio and with all of the same finishing touches and labor requirements, the price isn&apos;t all that helpful to you. But here&apos;s a quick back-story so you know how things went down. The reason I moved my shop so many times was because the sale of our old house fell through at the last minute. This is the house with the original Wood Whisperer shop/garage. We took the house off the market to recuperate and wait for the market to improve. In the mean time, I decided that I should probably make the best of the shop space that I was already paying for, so that&apos;s why I moved my tools back there. When we eventually put that house back on the market, it sold on the first day. That was a BIG surprise! While we weren&apos;t financially (or mentally) ready to build the new shop, I wasn&apos;t about to lose a chance to get that 2nd mortgage gorilla off my back. So all of our resources went into the sale of the old house and the purchase of my mom&apos;s new place. Truth is, there really wasn&apos;t much left to put toward the new shop. Thanks to some financing wizardry, we made it work. But let&apos;s just say I&apos;ll be paying this off for quite some time! We did our best to keep costs down, but there was only so much we could do. We needed the shop to go up quickly, which eliminated the prospect of me doing some of the work myself. Additionally, we live in a neighborhood with a homeowner&apos;s association. This means we have very specific restrictions for what we can and can&apos;t do on our property. So the shop must have all of the same finishing touches as our house. Time to Build Stuff Overall I am very happy with the final results and I can&apos;t wait to get back to making sawdust. The first project to be completed in the new shop is going to be a Queen Size Platform Bed for one of my favorite clients. I mentioned in a previous post that one of my goals this year was to get back into doing client work and this is me making good on that promise. I can&apos;t wait to get started!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

If you&apos;ve been following my blog posts all summer (links at the end of this write-up), you are probably as excited about this video release as I am! Welcome to the Dream Shop Build! Every woodworker (I think!) dreams of someday being able to construct their own dedicated woodworking space. To date, I have bounced around from garage to garage (about 4 times), making the best of a crappy real estate situation. And while I have been lucky to have fairly large spaces to work in, I still daydreamed about the possibility of designing a shop from the ground up, with both woodworking and video production in mind. The &quot;Perfect&quot; Shop In my opinion, the best shop space is a flexible one. I know many folks expected that after setting up my shop so many times, I would be able to design the PERFECT shop space including a finishing room, a dust collection closet, and even some internal walls. But the truth is, the most important lesson I learned over the years was to expect change. My shop is not a static entity. It is more like a living breathing creature that adapts, evolves, grows, shrinks, and changes configuration. Committing to an internal spacial arrangement too early could yield disappointing results. This is why you won&apos;t see me placing dust collection ductwork in the floor. I need to work in a space for at least a few months before I can be confident in my initial setup. Even then, I fully expect things to change at some point. If I made too many restrictive and/or permanent decisions ahead of time, these changes could be difficult or impossible to implement. So my best piece of advice is to forget about the concept of perfection. Instead, focus on flexibility. The ideal shop, in my mind, is little more than 4 walls, a roof, and a butt-load of outlets and lights. So here are some of my basic general goals for my new shop space. Size I want the shop to be big! Not only do I have a lot of tools, but I tend to frequently bring tools in for testing. As you probably know by now, I also do a lot of filming. So I need a space big enough to allow for full movement around most of the tools. My tripod has a pretty good-sized footprint and having more room allows me to get the best vantage point possible. More space will also allow me to stage larger pieces of furniture, whether for the show or for jobs I take on locally. The final size I decided on was 1800 sq. ft. Yeah, that&apos;s big! I actually balked and second guessed myself after we received the estimate from the contractor. Sure, more space is nice, but at what cost? I then asked for a second estimate, bringing the shop down to 1500 sq feet, which is still huge. As you might expect, the savings just weren&apos;t that substantial. By the time you get over 1000 sq. ft., the price per sq. ft. is really low, making it very difficult to justify down-sizing. So I bit the bullet and stayed with my original choice of 1800 sq. ft. Power The more outlets the better! I have a good mix of 220v and 110v outlets throughout the shop. I even included a few in the ceiling and the floor in hopes of avoiding power cords in the walkways. And although this contradicts my previous comments about over-committing, I picked locations that would likely work for various tool configurations. If at some point they don&apos;t work for my setup, I just won&apos;t use them. Lighting Every shop should have good lighting, whether natural or artificial. My video work dictates limited natural light, so I was sure to have plenty of overhead T8 fixtures (6500k). You&apos;ll hear me mention in the video that I was disappointed to see that the ends of the shop were just a little dark. Thankfully, I was able to get the contractor to come back in and drop in 4 more fixtures for me, two at either end. Now the light is bright, crisp, and evenly distributed from one side of the shop to the other. Just a quick note about light spectrum. I went with 6500k because that&apos;s what I like to film in. The daylight spectrum makes it easier for me if I decide to open the blinds, letting in some natural light. For the average woodworking shop, I think 5000k is probably a good choice, although some folks really enjoy the crispness of a 6500k light. But you should test them out for yourself to see what you prefer. Bathroom I have to admit that I am very easily distracted. So working from home can be very inefficient. In order to remove my primary excuse for going into the house, the shop would absolutely have to have a bathroom. As you&apos;ll see, I also included a slop sink for various shop cleaning/rinsing needs. Cost Nicole and I decided not to go public with the cost of the build. Although we are very open about most things, we are a little uncomfortable about making an expenditure of this magnitude public knowledge. Furthermore, unless you live in the Phoenix area and plan on building the same size shop with the same patio and with all of the same finishing touches and labor requirements, the price isn&apos;t all that helpful to you. But here&apos;s a quick back-story so you know how things went down. The reason I moved my shop so many times was because the sale of our old house fell through at the last minute. This is the house with the original Wood Whisperer shop/garage. We took the house off the market to recuperate and wait for the market to improve. In the mean time, I decided that I should probably make the best of the shop space that I was already paying for, so that&apos;s why I moved my tools back there. When we eventually put that house back on the market, it sold on the first day. That was a BIG surprise! While we weren&apos;t financially (or mentally) ready to build the new shop, I wasn&apos;t about to lose a chance to get that 2nd mortgage gorilla off my back. So all of our resources went into the sale of the old house and the purchase of my mom&apos;s new place. Truth is, there really wasn&apos;t much left to put toward the new shop. Thanks to some financing wizardry, we made it work. But let&apos;s just say I&apos;ll be paying this off for quite some time! We did our best to keep costs down, but there was only so much we could do. We needed the shop to go up quickly, which eliminated the prospect of me doing some of the work myself. Additionally, we live in a neighborhood with a homeowner&apos;s association. This means we have very specific restrictions for what we can and can&apos;t do on our property. So the shop must have all of the same finishing touches as our house. Time to Build Stuff Overall I am very happy with the final results and I can&apos;t wait to get back to making sawdust. The first project to be completed in the new shop is going to be a Queen Size Platform Bed for one of my favorite clients. I mentioned in a previous post that one of my goals this year was to get back into doing client work and this is me making good on that promise. I can&apos;t wait to get started!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Advanced joinery tour with Darrell Peart and William Ng at the William Ng School in Anaheim, CA.]]></blip:puredescription>
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Advanced joinery tour with Darrell Peart and William Ng at the William Ng School in Anaheim, CA.

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Just a few announcements concerning August&apos;s giveaway at TheWoodWhisperer.com, an update on my Dream Shop, and a chance to become a Guild member at a new low price!

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<br />

Wood Whisperer Guild testimonials!

]]></description>
  <comments>http://blip.tv/file/6266646</comments>
  <category>Educational</category>
  <category>wood</category>
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  <pubDate>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 03:32:39 +0000</pubDate>
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  <title>179 - Blade and Bit Cleaning</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[If you find that your blades and bits just aren&apos;t performing like they used to, you might not need to send them out for a sharpening. They might just be in desperate need of a good cleaning. Over time, pitch and resin builds up on cutting surfaces and causes them to cut less effectively. If the buildup isn&apos;t removed, the increased friction and heat will accelerate the dulling of the edge and eventually the blade or bit will be toast. Cleaning Agents The cleaning agent I use is a water-based formula from Rockler called Pitch &amp; Resin Remover. I don&apos;t know exactly what it&apos;s made of but it has a pleasant citrusy smell that is reminiscent of citrus cleaners. I have also heard of folks having good luck with another cleaning product called Simple Green. There are plenty of more caustic cleaners and degreasers out there but I don&apos;t find that the extra cleaning power is necessary nor is it fun to work with. In a pinch, I have used soapy water with good results. Cleaning For router bits, I like to use a small plastic cup to hold the concentrated cleaner. I then drop the router bit into the liquid and let it sit for at least five minutes. More stubborn pitch and resin may require a longer soak. After the soak period I use paper towels, acid brushes, and scotch brite pads depending on how much scrubbing power I need. Take care not to work the sharp edges too much, not only for safety but to avoid unnecessarily dulling the bit. For saw blades, I like to do the same soak method only using a wide shallow plastic bowl. Once clean, I like to rince the blades and bits with water, followed by a thorough wipe-down with a dry paper towel. Since water likes to hang out in the little nooks and crannies, I like to blow dry the blades and bit just to make sure they are bone dry. Lubrication The cleaning process no only removes the pitch and resin, but also any beneficial oils that were previously lubricating the tooling surface. In order to help the blades cut cleanly and also prevent rust buildup, we need to lubricate and protect the metal. I like to use Bostik DriCote for this. This aerosol dry lubricant is very easy to apply. After a light coat is applied, I use a paper towel to buff it into the surface. Simple routine maintenance can save you a lot of time and money. If your blades and bits are clean, they cut more effectively and that translates to better quality results. And without all the pitch and resin on the cutting edge, the edge will stay sharper for longer. That translates to few sharpening sessions. I send my blade and bits to a professional sharpener so anything I can do to lengthen the time between sharpening is welcome! I&apos;m curious what materials and methods you use to keep your blade and bits nice and clean. Comment below!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/AYL_vzwC.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#AYL_vzwC" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

If you find that your blades and bits just aren&apos;t performing like they used to, you might not need to send them out for a sharpening. They might just be in desperate need of a good cleaning. Over time, pitch and resin builds up on cutting surfaces and causes them to cut less effectively. If the buildup isn&apos;t removed, the increased friction and heat will accelerate the dulling of the edge and eventually the blade or bit will be toast. Cleaning Agents The cleaning agent I use is a water-based formula from Rockler called Pitch &amp; Resin Remover. I don&apos;t know exactly what it&apos;s made of but it has a pleasant citrusy smell that is reminiscent of citrus cleaners. I have also heard of folks having good luck with another cleaning product called Simple Green. There are plenty of more caustic cleaners and degreasers out there but I don&apos;t find that the extra cleaning power is necessary nor is it fun to work with. In a pinch, I have used soapy water with good results. Cleaning For router bits, I like to use a small plastic cup to hold the concentrated cleaner. I then drop the router bit into the liquid and let it sit for at least five minutes. More stubborn pitch and resin may require a longer soak. After the soak period I use paper towels, acid brushes, and scotch brite pads depending on how much scrubbing power I need. Take care not to work the sharp edges too much, not only for safety but to avoid unnecessarily dulling the bit. For saw blades, I like to do the same soak method only using a wide shallow plastic bowl. Once clean, I like to rince the blades and bits with water, followed by a thorough wipe-down with a dry paper towel. Since water likes to hang out in the little nooks and crannies, I like to blow dry the blades and bit just to make sure they are bone dry. Lubrication The cleaning process no only removes the pitch and resin, but also any beneficial oils that were previously lubricating the tooling surface. In order to help the blades cut cleanly and also prevent rust buildup, we need to lubricate and protect the metal. I like to use Bostik DriCote for this. This aerosol dry lubricant is very easy to apply. After a light coat is applied, I use a paper towel to buff it into the surface. Simple routine maintenance can save you a lot of time and money. If your blades and bits are clean, they cut more effectively and that translates to better quality results. And without all the pitch and resin on the cutting edge, the edge will stay sharper for longer. That translates to few sharpening sessions. I send my blade and bits to a professional sharpener so anything I can do to lengthen the time between sharpening is welcome! I&apos;m curious what materials and methods you use to keep your blade and bits nice and clean. Comment below!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[A short introduction to the Wood Whisperer Guild.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

A short introduction to the Wood Whisperer Guild.

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  <title>178 - Sitting Bench Step Stool Part 3</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[It&#8217;s time for everyone&#8217;s favorite topic: finishing! I plan on using polyurethane to finish my Sitting Bench Step Stool, and this time, I&#8217;m not going to use an expensive specialty varnish. Instead, I&#8217;m making my own wiping varnish by diluting some good old Minwax Polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits. But before I apply the poly, I need to apply a single coat of Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat Dewaxed Shellac as a sealer. This is a good precautionary measure for just about any wood as the shellac seals off any impurities or oils on the surface. But if you happen to be using a naturally oily wood (many exotics fall into this category), this is a necessary step when using an oil-based varnish topcoat. If you don&#8217;t do this, the oil-based finish will have difficulty curing. A Finishing Strategy No matter what finish you use, the first coat is usually very forgiving. The wood is so thirsty that you aren&#8217;t likely to see any drips, runs, or streaks. So that&#8217;s why the first coat is the perfect time to establish your finishing strategy. Years ago, I created a DVD called A Simple Varnish Finish. The board I used for demonstration was nice and flat and as a result, the first question most people ask after viewing the DVD is &#8220;What about curved surfaces and assembled pieces of furniture?&#8221;. So to help fill in that gap, I decided to use the Sitting Bench Step Stool to demonstrate my personal strategy. Which part get&#8217;s finish first, second, and so on? Two Rules There are really only two rules that I like to keep in mind during this process. First, is to finish the least visible parts first. As you apply finish to any piece of furniture, there will always be a chance for drips, runs, and even finger prints to find their way into the finish. So if I leave my &#8220;show surfaces&#8221; for last, I can be absolutely sure that the most visible surfaces look perfect. If a secondary surface has a slight flaw, it isn&#8217;t nearly as big of a deal. So in the case of this project, the underside is where I start. The second rule I follow is to follow the finish. As you apply finish to any particular piece, let&#8217;s say the stool&#8217;s leg, you are bound to get finish on the connecting parts. So pick the part that seems to have the most finish on it already and start applying your finish there next. Since every piece of a project tends to connect to another piece of the project, you can simply move from piece to piece by &#8220;following the finish&#8221;. If you work quickly enough, you should be able to blend all of the parts seamlessly. As with any project, you&#8217;ll want to sand between coats with a high grit paper and remove the dust with a vacuum or a damp cloth. Finishing the Finish Let&#8217;s face it folks: our shops are terrible places for wood finishing! As much as we might try to keep things clean, there will always be dust in the air and our finishes will inevitably have grit and nibs in them. So we need a way to smooth the final finish so that the end result is a silky surface that just begs to be touched. The secret is an old technique called rubbing out. The idea is to use fine abrasive compounds to get rid of any imperfections. But instead of using abrasive compounds and a ton of elbow grease, I have a quick and dirty method that still produces fantastic results. The secret is to use high grit abrasive foam pads with a lubricant to abrade the surface. You can use various lubricants including soapy water and mineral spirits, but I prefer to use a simple solution of 50% mineral oil and 50% mineral spirits (thanks to a tip from William Ng). Since the mineral oil doesn&#8217;t cure, you have plenty of time to massage the surface and get a nice even appearance. The grit I uses most often for this operation is 2000. The end result is a finish that will simply blow your mind. Silky smooth and not something you would expect from the average dusty garage or basement shop. I hope you enjoyed this project. Although it is small in stature, there are lots of little details that go into making it special. I hope you build a few for yourself!]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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It&#8217;s time for everyone&#8217;s favorite topic: finishing! I plan on using polyurethane to finish my Sitting Bench Step Stool, and this time, I&#8217;m not going to use an expensive specialty varnish. Instead, I&#8217;m making my own wiping varnish by diluting some good old Minwax Polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits. But before I apply the poly, I need to apply a single coat of Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat Dewaxed Shellac as a sealer. This is a good precautionary measure for just about any wood as the shellac seals off any impurities or oils on the surface. But if you happen to be using a naturally oily wood (many exotics fall into this category), this is a necessary step when using an oil-based varnish topcoat. If you don&#8217;t do this, the oil-based finish will have difficulty curing. A Finishing Strategy No matter what finish you use, the first coat is usually very forgiving. The wood is so thirsty that you aren&#8217;t likely to see any drips, runs, or streaks. So that&#8217;s why the first coat is the perfect time to establish your finishing strategy. Years ago, I created a DVD called A Simple Varnish Finish. The board I used for demonstration was nice and flat and as a result, the first question most people ask after viewing the DVD is &#8220;What about curved surfaces and assembled pieces of furniture?&#8221;. So to help fill in that gap, I decided to use the Sitting Bench Step Stool to demonstrate my personal strategy. Which part get&#8217;s finish first, second, and so on? Two Rules There are really only two rules that I like to keep in mind during this process. First, is to finish the least visible parts first. As you apply finish to any piece of furniture, there will always be a chance for drips, runs, and even finger prints to find their way into the finish. So if I leave my &#8220;show surfaces&#8221; for last, I can be absolutely sure that the most visible surfaces look perfect. If a secondary surface has a slight flaw, it isn&#8217;t nearly as big of a deal. So in the case of this project, the underside is where I start. The second rule I follow is to follow the finish. As you apply finish to any particular piece, let&#8217;s say the stool&#8217;s leg, you are bound to get finish on the connecting parts. So pick the part that seems to have the most finish on it already and start applying your finish there next. Since every piece of a project tends to connect to another piece of the project, you can simply move from piece to piece by &#8220;following the finish&#8221;. If you work quickly enough, you should be able to blend all of the parts seamlessly. As with any project, you&#8217;ll want to sand between coats with a high grit paper and remove the dust with a vacuum or a damp cloth. Finishing the Finish Let&#8217;s face it folks: our shops are terrible places for wood finishing! As much as we might try to keep things clean, there will always be dust in the air and our finishes will inevitably have grit and nibs in them. So we need a way to smooth the final finish so that the end result is a silky surface that just begs to be touched. The secret is an old technique called rubbing out. The idea is to use fine abrasive compounds to get rid of any imperfections. But instead of using abrasive compounds and a ton of elbow grease, I have a quick and dirty method that still produces fantastic results. The secret is to use high grit abrasive foam pads with a lubricant to abrade the surface. You can use various lubricants including soapy water and mineral spirits, but I prefer to use a simple solution of 50% mineral oil and 50% mineral spirits (thanks to a tip from William Ng). Since the mineral oil doesn&#8217;t cure, you have plenty of time to massage the surface and get a nice even appearance. The grit I uses most often for this operation is 2000. The end result is a finish that will simply blow your mind. Silky smooth and not something you would expect from the average dusty garage or basement shop. I hope you enjoyed this project. Although it is small in stature, there are lots of little details that go into making it special. I hope you build a few for yourself!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Shaping The Top The top of the Bench/Stool features a nice deep curve. This not only looks cool, but adds a lot of additional comfort when sitting. I scribe the shape onto both sides of the top piece using my template. Since the top is supposed to be symmetrical on both sides, I prefer to shape only one side of my template. I then flip it over to scribe the profile on the other side. This way there is no possibility of error and the top should be exactly the same on both sides. I also decided to include a late-game change by introducing a slight end grain curve on each end of the top. The curves are all cut at the bandsaw and refined back at the workbench using sanders, scrapers, rasps, and the router. The video contains numerous tips and tricks for accurate strategic shaping of parts using various tools, including this very important one: when milling symmetrical or identical parts, don&apos;t go more than one or two steps before repeating those same steps on the other parts. Shaping is an evolving process, meaning that you make decisions and adapt as you work toward your ultimate goal. So if you go too far on one piece without catching the others up, you might find it very difficult to make your parts identical. Finalizing the Legs For the most part, the legs are already shaped. But we still need to do some roundovers and blending. I use a router to roundover where possible, but the rasp does everything else. First Glueup It might seem like we&apos;re going out of sequence here, but the next step is to glue the legs to the top. We&apos;ll cut the center support to fit AFTER the glueup. Before adding any glue, I place a mark on the inside surface of each leg 3 3/4&quot; down from the inside shoulder. This mark will help use locate our center support later. When doing this glueup, the angle of the legs presents some serious clamping issues. My joint was so snug that I did something I normally would never do and used no clamps at all. As long as the shoulder is fully seated and there are no visible gaps, I see no major issues with this. But if you can manage to get a couple clamps on there without changing the angle of the legs, you will be better off. The Center Support With the glueup dry, we can now cut the center support. With the stool on its side, I line up the top of my center support blank with the lines that were drawn on the inside faces of the legs. I then use a pencil to mark the leg angles. They should be 75 (aka 15) degrees, but it is always good to get the measurements from the actual piece. Relative dimensioning in action baby! I cut the center support to size at the miter saw and test the fit. When the blank drops down between the legs with no gaps and the top of the blank lines up with our marks, its time to move on to the shaping. Using my template, I scribe the top and bottom curves onto the center support and proceed with the shaping process: bandsaw, spindle sander, router and rasps. Center Support Installation The center support to leg joint will be reinforced with dowels, but it first needs to be glued into place. Since this is an end grain to long grain butt joint, I like to use epoxy for as much strength as possible. Light clamping locks the support in place while the glue dries. The dowels are simple enough to install, but they do require precise drilling. If you go off course, you&apos;ll punch right through the center support. I locate my drilling points at 3 3/4&quot; and 4 1/2&quot; from the underside of the top. The goal is to drill a 1 1/2&quot; deep hole, perpendicular to the leg face. Because the leg sits at an angle, that means the drill bit is traveling through the center support at an angle. So getting these locations, depths, and angles correct is really important for good results. You can use whatever dowel size you like but I went with 1/4&quot;. If you really want to step things up a bit, consider using brass dowel stock like I did for my Bubinga stool. Wood dowels are easy enough to get flush to the surface by using a flush trim saw and a sander, but brass requires a little more work. I use a file to get things mostly flush before moving to my sander. Leveling the Legs It&apos;s almost inevitable that the stool will wobble a bit. So we need to make sure all four contact points are touching the surface at the same time. I like to use a trick I learned from William Ng that is super simple and quick. I tape a piece of sandpaper to the workbench and simply drag the stool over the paper. I put a little extra downward pressure on the offending part of the leg just to help work it down faster. I do this process on both legs using a consistent number of strokes. Unless the wobble is severe, this should take care of it fairly quickly without going too far. The only thing left to do now is prepare for finishing. The entire piece is sanded thoroughly with 180 grit. Now is the time to view the piece from as many angles as possible just to make sure we&apos;re completely happy with the shape. The next step is finishing!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Shaping The Top The top of the Bench/Stool features a nice deep curve. This not only looks cool, but adds a lot of additional comfort when sitting. I scribe the shape onto both sides of the top piece using my template. Since the top is supposed to be symmetrical on both sides, I prefer to shape only one side of my template. I then flip it over to scribe the profile on the other side. This way there is no possibility of error and the top should be exactly the same on both sides. I also decided to include a late-game change by introducing a slight end grain curve on each end of the top. The curves are all cut at the bandsaw and refined back at the workbench using sanders, scrapers, rasps, and the router. The video contains numerous tips and tricks for accurate strategic shaping of parts using various tools, including this very important one: when milling symmetrical or identical parts, don&apos;t go more than one or two steps before repeating those same steps on the other parts. Shaping is an evolving process, meaning that you make decisions and adapt as you work toward your ultimate goal. So if you go too far on one piece without catching the others up, you might find it very difficult to make your parts identical. Finalizing the Legs For the most part, the legs are already shaped. But we still need to do some roundovers and blending. I use a router to roundover where possible, but the rasp does everything else. First Glueup It might seem like we&apos;re going out of sequence here, but the next step is to glue the legs to the top. We&apos;ll cut the center support to fit AFTER the glueup. Before adding any glue, I place a mark on the inside surface of each leg 3 3/4&quot; down from the inside shoulder. This mark will help use locate our center support later. When doing this glueup, the angle of the legs presents some serious clamping issues. My joint was so snug that I did something I normally would never do and used no clamps at all. As long as the shoulder is fully seated and there are no visible gaps, I see no major issues with this. But if you can manage to get a couple clamps on there without changing the angle of the legs, you will be better off. The Center Support With the glueup dry, we can now cut the center support. With the stool on its side, I line up the top of my center support blank with the lines that were drawn on the inside faces of the legs. I then use a pencil to mark the leg angles. They should be 75 (aka 15) degrees, but it is always good to get the measurements from the actual piece. Relative dimensioning in action baby! I cut the center support to size at the miter saw and test the fit. When the blank drops down between the legs with no gaps and the top of the blank lines up with our marks, its time to move on to the shaping. Using my template, I scribe the top and bottom curves onto the center support and proceed with the shaping process: bandsaw, spindle sander, router and rasps. Center Support Installation The center support to leg joint will be reinforced with dowels, but it first needs to be glued into place. Since this is an end grain to long grain butt joint, I like to use epoxy for as much strength as possible. Light clamping locks the support in place while the glue dries. The dowels are simple enough to install, but they do require precise drilling. If you go off course, you&apos;ll punch right through the center support. I locate my drilling points at 3 3/4&quot; and 4 1/2&quot; from the underside of the top. The goal is to drill a 1 1/2&quot; deep hole, perpendicular to the leg face. Because the leg sits at an angle, that means the drill bit is traveling through the center support at an angle. So getting these locations, depths, and angles correct is really important for good results. You can use whatever dowel size you like but I went with 1/4&quot;. If you really want to step things up a bit, consider using brass dowel stock like I did for my Bubinga stool. Wood dowels are easy enough to get flush to the surface by using a flush trim saw and a sander, but brass requires a little more work. I use a file to get things mostly flush before moving to my sander. Leveling the Legs It&apos;s almost inevitable that the stool will wobble a bit. So we need to make sure all four contact points are touching the surface at the same time. I like to use a trick I learned from William Ng that is super simple and quick. I tape a piece of sandpaper to the workbench and simply drag the stool over the paper. I put a little extra downward pressure on the offending part of the leg just to help work it down faster. I do this process on both legs using a consistent number of strokes. Unless the wobble is severe, this should take care of it fairly quickly without going too far. The only thing left to do now is prepare for finishing. The entire piece is sanded thoroughly with 180 grit. Now is the time to view the piece from as many angles as possible just to make sure we&apos;re completely happy with the shape. The next step is finishing!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[After all of the support I received during our recent website troubles, I knew I had to come up with a special way of saying thank you. I considered sending out cards or personal emails, but I ultimately decided that the best way to show my appreciation would be to build one of the most requested projects ever: the Step Stool Sitting Bench. The reason this one gets requested so often is because it happens to be featured in our show&apos;s introduction. The Past This particular stool was actually a failed prototype. The reason I consider it &quot;failed&quot; is because I just couldn&apos;t produce them fast enough to sell at the desired price point. Here&apos;s the story. When I first moved to Arizona, I needed to come up with ways to make extra money while getting my woodworking business off the ground and I decided to make a few items to sell at a local swap meet. My goal was to create something that was small, elegant, useful, well-built, batch-able, and cheap. And while I really liked the design of this little multi-purpose stool, I just couldn&apos;t figure out a way to make them fast enough or in high enough number to justify a low price. So the prototype went to my mother-in-law who has been enjoying it for years. The Present Now that I get another crack at the design, I can&apos;t wait to dive into the details. I doubt that I&apos;ll overcome my previous issues, but I can certainly make some improvements on the original. In fact, this is another one of my classic &quot;design on the fly&quot; projects. I&apos;m going to extract all the basic elements from the original, keeping the fundamental dimensions and angles. But I think we can do some additional shaping that will really make this piece stand out. So let&apos;s embark on this design challenge together and create the coolest sitting bench.....step stool...thingie....ever! To make this project, you&apos;ll need to cut your materials into blanks of the following dimensions: Top Blank - 1 3/4&quot;T x 7&quot;W x 16&quot;L Leg Blanks - 1&quot;T x 7&quot;W x 11 1/2&quot;L Stretcher Blank - 1 1/4&quot;T x 1 3/4&quot;W x 11 1/2&quot;L Note #1: The 1&quot; thickness of the legs is a bit of a necessary evil. We are cutting a lot of stock away so in order to have a thick enough leg when it is all said and done, the 1&quot; thickness is a necessity. You can use 3/4&quot; stock, but I don&apos;t think it will look as good or be quite as strong. Note #2: The curves in this project are all subjective. I can&apos;t send you my templates so I encourage you to get some bending strips out and create your own curves. Experiment, play around, and have fun with the design process. Get &apos;Er Done!Use a 1/2 spiral bit , router and edge guideto create the mortises in the underside of the top blank.Cut a 15 degree bevel on one end of each leg blank to establish the top of the tenon.Use a tenoning jig to hold workpiece at 75 degree angle and cut tenon with dado stack. Cut the 15 degree bevel on the bottom of each leg. Use template to mark the face curve profile on each leg and cut at the bandsaw. Smooth the surface using a rasp, a spokeshave, a scraper or a sander. Cut side profile of each leg leaving a 4&quot; long tenon at the top.Shape leg to personal taste.Cut the tenon shoulders with a hand saw, clean up with a chisel, and round over the tenons with a rasp.]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/AYL8mQkC.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#AYL8mQkC" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

After all of the support I received during our recent website troubles, I knew I had to come up with a special way of saying thank you. I considered sending out cards or personal emails, but I ultimately decided that the best way to show my appreciation would be to build one of the most requested projects ever: the Step Stool Sitting Bench. The reason this one gets requested so often is because it happens to be featured in our show&apos;s introduction. The Past This particular stool was actually a failed prototype. The reason I consider it &quot;failed&quot; is because I just couldn&apos;t produce them fast enough to sell at the desired price point. Here&apos;s the story. When I first moved to Arizona, I needed to come up with ways to make extra money while getting my woodworking business off the ground and I decided to make a few items to sell at a local swap meet. My goal was to create something that was small, elegant, useful, well-built, batch-able, and cheap. And while I really liked the design of this little multi-purpose stool, I just couldn&apos;t figure out a way to make them fast enough or in high enough number to justify a low price. So the prototype went to my mother-in-law who has been enjoying it for years. The Present Now that I get another crack at the design, I can&apos;t wait to dive into the details. I doubt that I&apos;ll overcome my previous issues, but I can certainly make some improvements on the original. In fact, this is another one of my classic &quot;design on the fly&quot; projects. I&apos;m going to extract all the basic elements from the original, keeping the fundamental dimensions and angles. But I think we can do some additional shaping that will really make this piece stand out. So let&apos;s embark on this design challenge together and create the coolest sitting bench.....step stool...thingie....ever! To make this project, you&apos;ll need to cut your materials into blanks of the following dimensions: Top Blank - 1 3/4&quot;T x 7&quot;W x 16&quot;L Leg Blanks - 1&quot;T x 7&quot;W x 11 1/2&quot;L Stretcher Blank - 1 1/4&quot;T x 1 3/4&quot;W x 11 1/2&quot;L Note #1: The 1&quot; thickness of the legs is a bit of a necessary evil. We are cutting a lot of stock away so in order to have a thick enough leg when it is all said and done, the 1&quot; thickness is a necessity. You can use 3/4&quot; stock, but I don&apos;t think it will look as good or be quite as strong. Note #2: The curves in this project are all subjective. I can&apos;t send you my templates so I encourage you to get some bending strips out and create your own curves. Experiment, play around, and have fun with the design process. Get &apos;Er Done!Use a 1/2 spiral bit , router and edge guideto create the mortises in the underside of the top blank.Cut a 15 degree bevel on one end of each leg blank to establish the top of the tenon.Use a tenoning jig to hold workpiece at 75 degree angle and cut tenon with dado stack. Cut the 15 degree bevel on the bottom of each leg. Use template to mark the face curve profile on each leg and cut at the bandsaw. Smooth the surface using a rasp, a spokeshave, a scraper or a sander. Cut side profile of each leg leaving a 4&quot; long tenon at the top.Shape leg to personal taste.Cut the tenon shoulders with a hand saw, clean up with a chisel, and round over the tenons with a rasp.

]]></description>
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  <category>Educational</category>
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  <pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2012 02:23:38 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[How to turn a tool handle.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

How to turn a tool handle.

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  <pubDate>Sat, 02 Jun 2012 21:19:38 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[How to flatten a workbench with a router.]]></blip:puredescription>
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How to flatten a workbench with a router.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[While I was in the shop yesterday, I took a few video clips using my phone. My intention was to simply upload these to various social networking sites (which I did). But then I realized that it might be nice to put all three videos together as a little preview of an upcoming project: The Child&apos;s Sitting Bench. I guess you might call it a step-stool too, but I like the shorter title. I am just now working out the details but you can expect this project to be released early this summer. It should be a fun little project with a few unexpected challenges here and there including curves, angles, and angled tenons.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

While I was in the shop yesterday, I took a few video clips using my phone. My intention was to simply upload these to various social networking sites (which I did). But then I realized that it might be nice to put all three videos together as a little preview of an upcoming project: The Child&apos;s Sitting Bench. I guess you might call it a step-stool too, but I like the shorter title. I am just now working out the details but you can expect this project to be released early this summer. It should be a fun little project with a few unexpected challenges here and there including curves, angles, and angled tenons.

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adirondack promo

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The tablesaw has really come under fire in the last few years in terms of its overall safety. As a result, some folks are going sans tablesaw in their wood shops. This is a little hard for me to imagine since I use my tablesaw of pretty much every project, but to each his/her own right? If you are one of those folks who wants to begin detaching from the tablesaw, you&#8217;re going to need to find alternative methods for doing the things that we typically use the tablesaw for, such as cutting tenons. Fortunately, the bandsaw is a very good alternative. Preparation and Stuff To cut tenons at the bandsaw, you&#8217;ll need a few simple things: Realiable Bandsaw Fence &#8211; A good fence is a must for this operation. It needs to be rock solid and adjustable for the blade drift calibration. The fence should also be perfectly perpendicular to the table surface. Simple Miter Gauge &#8211; You really don&#8217;t need a fancy schmancy miter gauge for this. The stock unit that comes with your bandsaw should suffice. If your workpieces are really wide though, you might consider adding a tall fence to the gauge. Stop Block and Clamp &#8211; A stop block made from scrap wood will allow us to make multiple cuts of a consistent depth. This is crucial for getting good results. It&#8217;s also a good idea to chamfer the bottom of the stop block so that dust can escape and wont interfere with workpiece registration. Featherboard &#8211; A featherboard will hold the workpiece securely against the fence. Not absolutely necessary but highly recommended. The last thing you need to do, and perhaps the most important, is to make sure your bandsaw is fully calibrated and tuned up. If you haven&#8217;t tuned your bandsaw yet, watch this video! The Process 1. Layout the tenons using a fine pencil and a marking gauge. 2. Set up the stop block for the appropriate depth of cut, using the shoulder line as a guide. Clamp the stop block securely to the fence. 3. To cut the cheeks, set the fence so that you are cutting just outside the pencil line that is closest to the fence, keeping the blade in the waste. Remember, you can always do a little cleanup later with hand tools. 4. With a featherboard in place, make the first cut. Once you make contact with the stop block, wait a second or two before retracting the workpiece. This allows the blade to come back to its &#8220;home&#8221; position giving you the full depth of cut. 5. Flip the piece and make the second cut. 6. To cut the tenon sides, adjust your fence to the appropriate position and make both cuts. If your shoulder is the same on all four sides, you won&#8217;t need to move your fence at all. 7. To cut the shoulders, set up the stop block as a &#8220;stopped&#8221; fence. In other words, clamp it to the fence BEFORE the blade. This will allow us to make our shoulder cuts while safely releasing the off-cut into an open area. Using the fence directly would result in the off-cut being trapped between the blade and the fence, which is never a great idea. Set the fence so that the blade is cutting just inside the shoulder line, again with the blade in the waste. Using the miter gauge, cut the shoulders on all four sides of the board. You might even consider clamping the workpiece to the miter gauge for even better results. Keep in mind there is no stop being used during this step because when you see a piece fall off the board, you know you&#8217;ve gone far enough. Your results could very well be perfect right off the saw, but you want to inspect the joint just to be sure. Using a shoulder plane and/or a rabbeting block plane, you can clean up the shoulders and the cheeks. A chisel should help you easily fine tune the tenon sides. I recommend running a couple of test pieces to get the feel for the process. Once set up, cut all of your tenons at once for the most consistency possible. All told, this process is arguably just as fast as the tablesaw method. So if you&#8217;re looking for a high quality substitute for tablesaw tenons (that still involves power tools), give your bandsaw a shot!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The tablesaw has really come under fire in the last few years in terms of its overall safety. As a result, some folks are going sans tablesaw in their wood shops. This is a little hard for me to imagine since I use my tablesaw of pretty much every project, but to each his/her own right? If you are one of those folks who wants to begin detaching from the tablesaw, you&#8217;re going to need to find alternative methods for doing the things that we typically use the tablesaw for, such as cutting tenons. Fortunately, the bandsaw is a very good alternative. Preparation and Stuff To cut tenons at the bandsaw, you&#8217;ll need a few simple things: Realiable Bandsaw Fence &#8211; A good fence is a must for this operation. It needs to be rock solid and adjustable for the blade drift calibration. The fence should also be perfectly perpendicular to the table surface. Simple Miter Gauge &#8211; You really don&#8217;t need a fancy schmancy miter gauge for this. The stock unit that comes with your bandsaw should suffice. If your workpieces are really wide though, you might consider adding a tall fence to the gauge. Stop Block and Clamp &#8211; A stop block made from scrap wood will allow us to make multiple cuts of a consistent depth. This is crucial for getting good results. It&#8217;s also a good idea to chamfer the bottom of the stop block so that dust can escape and wont interfere with workpiece registration. Featherboard &#8211; A featherboard will hold the workpiece securely against the fence. Not absolutely necessary but highly recommended. The last thing you need to do, and perhaps the most important, is to make sure your bandsaw is fully calibrated and tuned up. If you haven&#8217;t tuned your bandsaw yet, watch this video! The Process 1. Layout the tenons using a fine pencil and a marking gauge. 2. Set up the stop block for the appropriate depth of cut, using the shoulder line as a guide. Clamp the stop block securely to the fence. 3. To cut the cheeks, set the fence so that you are cutting just outside the pencil line that is closest to the fence, keeping the blade in the waste. Remember, you can always do a little cleanup later with hand tools. 4. With a featherboard in place, make the first cut. Once you make contact with the stop block, wait a second or two before retracting the workpiece. This allows the blade to come back to its &#8220;home&#8221; position giving you the full depth of cut. 5. Flip the piece and make the second cut. 6. To cut the tenon sides, adjust your fence to the appropriate position and make both cuts. If your shoulder is the same on all four sides, you won&#8217;t need to move your fence at all. 7. To cut the shoulders, set up the stop block as a &#8220;stopped&#8221; fence. In other words, clamp it to the fence BEFORE the blade. This will allow us to make our shoulder cuts while safely releasing the off-cut into an open area. Using the fence directly would result in the off-cut being trapped between the blade and the fence, which is never a great idea. Set the fence so that the blade is cutting just inside the shoulder line, again with the blade in the waste. Using the miter gauge, cut the shoulders on all four sides of the board. You might even consider clamping the workpiece to the miter gauge for even better results. Keep in mind there is no stop being used during this step because when you see a piece fall off the board, you know you&#8217;ve gone far enough. Your results could very well be perfect right off the saw, but you want to inspect the joint just to be sure. Using a shoulder plane and/or a rabbeting block plane, you can clean up the shoulders and the cheeks. A chisel should help you easily fine tune the tenon sides. I recommend running a couple of test pieces to get the feel for the process. Once set up, cut all of your tenons at once for the most consistency possible. All told, this process is arguably just as fast as the tablesaw method. So if you&#8217;re looking for a high quality substitute for tablesaw tenons (that still involves power tools), give your bandsaw a shot!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[A brief look at the Benchcrafted Split Top Roubo workbench build featured in the Wood Whisperer Guild at http://thewoodwhisperer.com/guild]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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<br />

A brief look at the Benchcrafted Split Top Roubo workbench build featured in the Wood Whisperer Guild at http://thewoodwhisperer.com/guild

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[MicroJig MJ Splitter]]></blip:puredescription>
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MicroJig MJ Splitter

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Why a Cyclone Separator A cyclone separator is essentially a bucket with a fancy lid. When connected to a vacuum source, the lid creates a cyclonic suction that collects large dust particles minimally, and the small dust particles at best. By adding one of these to a standard shop vac or dust extractor, you can collect much of the dust before it ever reaches your vac&apos;s filter. So why would you want to do this? One reason is safety. Many times, a filter will get clogged with both large and small dust particles, eventually clogging up the system. This could lead to dust leaking through the system and being expelled back into the shop air. By removing the large particles and even some of the smaller particles, your vac filters don&apos;t have to work as hard and are less likely to become clogged. At the very least, it will take a lot longer for a clog to occur. The second reason is to save money. I never run my shop vac or dust extractors without a filter bag. Disposable filter bags wind up costing me a lot of money over time. By separating out the chips and dust BEFORE the vac, I can simply empty the bucket over and over and the fill rate on the disposable bags drops dramatically. I&apos;ll be reviewing the following cyclone separators: The Oneida Dust Deputy, The ClearVue Mini-CV06, and Rockler&apos;s Dust Right Vortex. PriceOneida Dust Deputy Deluxe - $79 ClearVueMini CV06 - $149 Rockler Dust Right Vortex - $89 The ClearVue CV06 comes in at the highest price point of all three of these units at $149. The Dust Right Vortex is $89 but can often be found on sale for $69. The Dust Deputy Deluxe kit retails for $79. Oneida also carries other kits costing as much as $199 for the Ultimate model and as little as $39 for the DIY standalone cyclone body. Winner: Dust DeputyConnectivity One of the greatest frustrations in dust collection is dealing with various port and hoses sizes. Fortunately, all three kits come with their own short length of hose for connecting the cyclone to the dust extractor. I had no trouble connecting all three units to both my Festool CT33 and my Rigid Shop Vac. The port for the tool connection was a bit of a different story. I had three hoses to test: my large Festool boom arm hose, my 36 mm Festool hose, and my standard Rigid shop vac hose. Mini CV06 - All hoses connected with no problem. Dust Right Vortex - All hoses connected with no problem. Dust Deputy Deluxe - The large Festool boom arm hose and the Rigid shop vac hose both connected with no trouble. But I was not able to securely connect my 36 mm Festool hose. The diameter of the hose port would have worked just fine, but this particular one does not allow the Dust Deputy&apos;s port to penetrate far enough for the friction fit to engage. Winners: Dust Right Vortex &amp; ClearVue Mini CV06Portability The one major drawback of a cyclone separator is that you now have one more thing to lug around the shop. Since it is essentially tethered to your vacuum source, the whole setup and be quite a pain in the neck. Many folks make custom carts specifically for this purpose. But the manufacturers of these units didn&apos;t leave us hanging. Dust Deputy - Includes casters for rolling around as well as an attachment kit for mounting to a dust extractor. Mini CV06 - Does not come with casters but does come with an attachment kit for mounting to a dust extractor. Dust Right Vortex - Includes easy to attach casters but does not include a mounting kit. Winner: Dust DeputyBuild Quality All of these units are plastic. Nothing really fancy about them, but there are some minor differences to consider. Dust Right Vortex - Sturdy thick plastic with a twist-on lid. Only thing I don&apos;t like about it is the crappy rigid plastic hose. This is the type of hose that will either kink or crack if stepped on. Since it also holds its shape, it will decrease mobility somewhat. Mini CV06 - Initially seemed to have the highest build quality. The plastic cyclone was made from thicker plastic and the lower profile offers less of a chance of tipping. The lid is fantastic on this unit as it twists and threads onto the bucket. Once the threads are engaged, you have to pull a small lever to twist it back off. The kit included a high quality flexible connector hose too. Unfortunately, these positive aspects were overshadowed by the fact that the bucket collapsed under pressure. While this could be circumstantial or pure bad luck, it happened. Dust Deputy - There really isn&apos;t anything remarkable about the build quality. At the same time, there isn&apos;t anything overly negative. The kit comes with nice flexible hose equal in quality to the Mini CV06. My one complaint about the Dust Deputy is the lid. 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<br />

Why a Cyclone Separator A cyclone separator is essentially a bucket with a fancy lid. When connected to a vacuum source, the lid creates a cyclonic suction that collects large dust particles minimally, and the small dust particles at best. By adding one of these to a standard shop vac or dust extractor, you can collect much of the dust before it ever reaches your vac&apos;s filter. So why would you want to do this? One reason is safety. Many times, a filter will get clogged with both large and small dust particles, eventually clogging up the system. This could lead to dust leaking through the system and being expelled back into the shop air. By removing the large particles and even some of the smaller particles, your vac filters don&apos;t have to work as hard and are less likely to become clogged. At the very least, it will take a lot longer for a clog to occur. The second reason is to save money. I never run my shop vac or dust extractors without a filter bag. Disposable filter bags wind up costing me a lot of money over time. By separating out the chips and dust BEFORE the vac, I can simply empty the bucket over and over and the fill rate on the disposable bags drops dramatically. I&apos;ll be reviewing the following cyclone separators: The Oneida Dust Deputy, The ClearVue Mini-CV06, and Rockler&apos;s Dust Right Vortex. PriceOneida Dust Deputy Deluxe - $79 ClearVueMini CV06 - $149 Rockler Dust Right Vortex - $89 The ClearVue CV06 comes in at the highest price point of all three of these units at $149. The Dust Right Vortex is $89 but can often be found on sale for $69. The Dust Deputy Deluxe kit retails for $79. Oneida also carries other kits costing as much as $199 for the Ultimate model and as little as $39 for the DIY standalone cyclone body. Winner: Dust DeputyConnectivity One of the greatest frustrations in dust collection is dealing with various port and hoses sizes. Fortunately, all three kits come with their own short length of hose for connecting the cyclone to the dust extractor. I had no trouble connecting all three units to both my Festool CT33 and my Rigid Shop Vac. The port for the tool connection was a bit of a different story. I had three hoses to test: my large Festool boom arm hose, my 36 mm Festool hose, and my standard Rigid shop vac hose. Mini CV06 - All hoses connected with no problem. Dust Right Vortex - All hoses connected with no problem. Dust Deputy Deluxe - The large Festool boom arm hose and the Rigid shop vac hose both connected with no trouble. But I was not able to securely connect my 36 mm Festool hose. The diameter of the hose port would have worked just fine, but this particular one does not allow the Dust Deputy&apos;s port to penetrate far enough for the friction fit to engage. Winners: Dust Right Vortex &amp; ClearVue Mini CV06Portability The one major drawback of a cyclone separator is that you now have one more thing to lug around the shop. Since it is essentially tethered to your vacuum source, the whole setup and be quite a pain in the neck. Many folks make custom carts specifically for this purpose. But the manufacturers of these units didn&apos;t leave us hanging. Dust Deputy - Includes casters for rolling around as well as an attachment kit for mounting to a dust extractor. Mini CV06 - Does not come with casters but does come with an attachment kit for mounting to a dust extractor. Dust Right Vortex - Includes easy to attach casters but does not include a mounting kit. Winner: Dust DeputyBuild Quality All of these units are plastic. Nothing really fancy about them, but there are some minor differences to consider. Dust Right Vortex - Sturdy thick plastic with a twist-on lid. Only thing I don&apos;t like about it is the crappy rigid plastic hose. This is the type of hose that will either kink or crack if stepped on. Since it also holds its shape, it will decrease mobility somewhat. Mini CV06 - Initially seemed to have the highest build quality. The plastic cyclone was made from thicker plastic and the lower profile offers less of a chance of tipping. The lid is fantastic on this unit as it twists and threads onto the bucket. Once the threads are engaged, you have to pull a small lever to twist it back off. The kit included a high quality flexible connector hose too. Unfortunately, these positive aspects were overshadowed by the fact that the bucket collapsed under pressure. While this could be circumstantial or pure bad luck, it happened. Dust Deputy - There really isn&apos;t anything remarkable about the build quality. At the same time, there isn&apos;t anything overly negative. The kit comes with nice flexible hose equal in quality to the Mini CV06. My one complaint about the Dust Deputy is the lid. The simple pop-on pop-off lid is very likely to detach at a very inconvenient time. But if one were to adopt the policy of never picking the unit up by the cyclone, this should never be an issue. Winner: Dust Deputy Performance The performance test was very simple. I sanded a soft maple board with 80 grit paper for 5 minutes straight. I then made three cuts at the sliding compound miter saw. I figured this would be a decent mix of small and large dust. The sandpaper was changed between each test and I did my best to keep even pressure on the sander. Dust Right Vortex - A moderate to heavy amount of fine dust found its way into the dust vac compartment. Mini CV06 - A moderate amount of fine dust found its way into the dust vac compartment. Dust Deputy - A minimal amount of dust found its way into the dust vac compartment. Winner: Dust DeputySummary To say I was surprised by these results would be an understatement. It isn&apos;t often that the cheapest option in a tool test is also the best option. Both the Mini CV06 and the Dust Right Vortex will get the job done, but the combination of price, overall quality, and performance of the Dust Deputy make it the clear winner here. Overall Winner: Oneida Dust Deputy

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[There is nothing worse then when you have an absolutely beautiful board that is nice and wide and you realize it won&apos;t fit on your jointer. So you have no choice but to rip it in half, joint each piece separately, and then glue the pieces back together. Wouldn&apos;t it be so much nicer if we could just keep everything whole and preserve the wood&apos;s natural beauty without a grain-interrupting glue line? Well, it&apos;s your lucky day because I&apos;m going to show you two techniques that will help you keep your wide boards intact. Both methods utilize the planer for final flattening, but one method starts with a hand plane and the other starts with the jointer. The Hand Plane TrickIt should be said that the traditional way to handle a wide board would be to simply mill it 4-square with your hand planes. But this method is intended as a quicker, more beginner-friendly, hybrid alternative. It begins with planing one side of the board flat. By laying the board face down on a known flat surface (workbench, assembly table, tablesaw...), you can simply rock the piece back and forth to determine if any twist, cup, or bow exists. Mark the high spots with a pencil and begin planing them down. Keep testing your progress by flipping the piece over and checking for rocking. Eventually, you should end up with a reasonably flat and stable board. Once you are confident the one side is flat, you can simply send the board through the planer with the flat side down and then mill the edges using your preferred method. Here&apos;s a quick tip. The initial flat surface doesn&apos;t need to be perfectly flat. If the board is slightly concave and it isn&apos;t too long, it can still register perfectly during a pass through the planer. So for the sake of expedience, don&apos;t shoot for dead flat. Shoot for even registration around the perimeter and if the center area is hollowed out ever so slightly, that&apos;s ok. The Jointer Trick So your jointer is only 6&quot; side and your fancy board is 9&quot; wide. No problem. But before I go into detail here, note that this technique does require the removal of the jointer&apos;s safety guard. Exercise the highest level of caution during this process and place the guard back on the jointer immediately after! Don&apos;t make me come over there! Once the guard is removed, you should have the ability to run an extra wide boards over the tables. Take one or two passes and flip the board over to see what you&apos;re up against. If the board is badly twisted, it may take a few more passes. What you&apos;re looking for is a little ridge. Only 6&quot; worth of the board&apos;s width is making contact with the blades. So the overhanging area should appear as a raised portion of stock running the length of the board. Now here&apos;s the &quot;trick&quot;, and you have two options. First, you can simply double-stick tape a piece of flat sheetgood stock to the flat milled portion of your board. The sheetgood sled can be anything from plywood to MDF to particle board and should be at least the width of the flattened section and the length of the board. Once securely attached, you can flip the sandwich over and run it through the planer. The uneven raised portion of the board will now be raised above the planer table surface and won&apos;t have any impact. The flat section of the board is now registering against the sled and since the sled is flat as well, we are able to achieve perfect flat registration as we pass the assembly through the planer. One the new face of the board is clean and flat, we can disassemble the sandwich and run the board through the planer one last time to remove the raised uneven portion. The second option after the initial flattening is to remove the uneven raised portion using a hand plane. A few passes with a hand plane is all it takes to flush up the rest of the surface. Once flat, you can simple pass the piece through the planer with the clean and flat face down.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

There is nothing worse then when you have an absolutely beautiful board that is nice and wide and you realize it won&apos;t fit on your jointer. So you have no choice but to rip it in half, joint each piece separately, and then glue the pieces back together. Wouldn&apos;t it be so much nicer if we could just keep everything whole and preserve the wood&apos;s natural beauty without a grain-interrupting glue line? Well, it&apos;s your lucky day because I&apos;m going to show you two techniques that will help you keep your wide boards intact. Both methods utilize the planer for final flattening, but one method starts with a hand plane and the other starts with the jointer. The Hand Plane TrickIt should be said that the traditional way to handle a wide board would be to simply mill it 4-square with your hand planes. But this method is intended as a quicker, more beginner-friendly, hybrid alternative. It begins with planing one side of the board flat. By laying the board face down on a known flat surface (workbench, assembly table, tablesaw...), you can simply rock the piece back and forth to determine if any twist, cup, or bow exists. Mark the high spots with a pencil and begin planing them down. Keep testing your progress by flipping the piece over and checking for rocking. Eventually, you should end up with a reasonably flat and stable board. Once you are confident the one side is flat, you can simply send the board through the planer with the flat side down and then mill the edges using your preferred method. Here&apos;s a quick tip. The initial flat surface doesn&apos;t need to be perfectly flat. If the board is slightly concave and it isn&apos;t too long, it can still register perfectly during a pass through the planer. So for the sake of expedience, don&apos;t shoot for dead flat. Shoot for even registration around the perimeter and if the center area is hollowed out ever so slightly, that&apos;s ok. The Jointer Trick So your jointer is only 6&quot; side and your fancy board is 9&quot; wide. No problem. But before I go into detail here, note that this technique does require the removal of the jointer&apos;s safety guard. Exercise the highest level of caution during this process and place the guard back on the jointer immediately after! Don&apos;t make me come over there! Once the guard is removed, you should have the ability to run an extra wide boards over the tables. Take one or two passes and flip the board over to see what you&apos;re up against. If the board is badly twisted, it may take a few more passes. What you&apos;re looking for is a little ridge. Only 6&quot; worth of the board&apos;s width is making contact with the blades. So the overhanging area should appear as a raised portion of stock running the length of the board. Now here&apos;s the &quot;trick&quot;, and you have two options. First, you can simply double-stick tape a piece of flat sheetgood stock to the flat milled portion of your board. The sheetgood sled can be anything from plywood to MDF to particle board and should be at least the width of the flattened section and the length of the board. Once securely attached, you can flip the sandwich over and run it through the planer. The uneven raised portion of the board will now be raised above the planer table surface and won&apos;t have any impact. The flat section of the board is now registering against the sled and since the sled is flat as well, we are able to achieve perfect flat registration as we pass the assembly through the planer. One the new face of the board is clean and flat, we can disassemble the sandwich and run the board through the planer one last time to remove the raised uneven portion. The second option after the initial flattening is to remove the uneven raised portion using a hand plane. A few passes with a hand plane is all it takes to flush up the rest of the surface. Once flat, you can simple pass the piece through the planer with the clean and flat face down.

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  <category>Educational</category>
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  <pubDate>Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:11:26 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The mortise and tenon is one of the strongest fundamental joints available to woodworkers, but there are a couple of ways we can make the joint even stronger and longer-lasting. One option is to simply reinforce with pegs. While this doesn&#8217;t really make the joint all that much stronger, it does help hold the parts together in the event of glue failure. I have repaired numerous chairs where the only thing preventing the piece from catastrophic joint failure was a small 1/4&#8243; dowel driven through a key tenon. So if you don&#8217;t mind the way it looks, pegging your mortise &amp; tenon joints is not a bad idea. But we can do even better. The Drawbored Mortise &amp; Tenon A drawbored mortise &amp; tenon joint is similar to the pegged version, only the hole in the tenon is slightly offset so that when the peg is driven home, it pulls the tenon further into the mortise. Most of the time, a joint with this much mechanical strength really doesn&#8217;t even require glue! But being the &#8220;belt and suspenders&#8221; kind of guy that I am, I like to use glue anyway. This technique can be used on anything from door frames to workbenches. I&#8217;m using the drawboring technique on all of my mortise &amp; tenon joints on my Roubo workbench. I want this sucker to be bullet-proof! How to Drawbore To drawbore, you need to have a finished mortise and tenon that is already cut and ready to go. Drill two holes through the mortise piece, making sure you go deep enough to penetrate the material on the other side of the mortise. Dry assemble the joint and use a brad point bit to locate and transfer the hole centers in the tenon. Disassemble the joint and for better visibility, use a pencil to darken the marks in the cheek of the tenon. Measure and mark the offset (the offset should be located closer to the shoulder of the tenon). How much offset depends on the wood and the application. A softer wood and a more demanding application might require a 1/8&#8243; offset. A small door frame made from a dense exotic hardwood might require only 1/32&#8243;. But I would say on average, 1/16&#8243; offset is probably a safe bet. Drill holes in the tenon at the new offset marks. Homemade Dowel Pins You can use commercial dowel stock for the pins but I find it much more fun to use a dowel plate to create my own. The advantage here is that you can use any species you have in your shop! Once the pins are cut to length, use a chisel or utility knife to sharpen one end to a blunt point. If you don&#8217;t do this, the pin will never be able to maneuver around the offset and you could very well break the pin or the tenon. Hammer it Home! Hammering the pins in place does take a little more effort than you are probably used to but keep at it. When the pin contacts the offset hole you will actually notice it starts tilting slightly. Once you reach the stock on the other side of the tenon, the pin straightens out again and bottoms out. Simply let the glue dry (if you used glue), and then use a flush trim saw to trim the excess pin stock. I recommend practicing this technique a few times before trying it on an important project. Once you get the hang of it, you&#8217;ll be drawboring mortise &amp; tenon joints till the cows come home. I don&#8217;t own any cows so I&#8217;m guessing that&#8217;s going to be a really long time for me.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The mortise and tenon is one of the strongest fundamental joints available to woodworkers, but there are a couple of ways we can make the joint even stronger and longer-lasting. One option is to simply reinforce with pegs. While this doesn&#8217;t really make the joint all that much stronger, it does help hold the parts together in the event of glue failure. I have repaired numerous chairs where the only thing preventing the piece from catastrophic joint failure was a small 1/4&#8243; dowel driven through a key tenon. So if you don&#8217;t mind the way it looks, pegging your mortise &amp; tenon joints is not a bad idea. But we can do even better. The Drawbored Mortise &amp; Tenon A drawbored mortise &amp; tenon joint is similar to the pegged version, only the hole in the tenon is slightly offset so that when the peg is driven home, it pulls the tenon further into the mortise. Most of the time, a joint with this much mechanical strength really doesn&#8217;t even require glue! But being the &#8220;belt and suspenders&#8221; kind of guy that I am, I like to use glue anyway. This technique can be used on anything from door frames to workbenches. I&#8217;m using the drawboring technique on all of my mortise &amp; tenon joints on my Roubo workbench. I want this sucker to be bullet-proof! How to Drawbore To drawbore, you need to have a finished mortise and tenon that is already cut and ready to go. Drill two holes through the mortise piece, making sure you go deep enough to penetrate the material on the other side of the mortise. Dry assemble the joint and use a brad point bit to locate and transfer the hole centers in the tenon. Disassemble the joint and for better visibility, use a pencil to darken the marks in the cheek of the tenon. Measure and mark the offset (the offset should be located closer to the shoulder of the tenon). How much offset depends on the wood and the application. A softer wood and a more demanding application might require a 1/8&#8243; offset. A small door frame made from a dense exotic hardwood might require only 1/32&#8243;. But I would say on average, 1/16&#8243; offset is probably a safe bet. Drill holes in the tenon at the new offset marks. Homemade Dowel Pins You can use commercial dowel stock for the pins but I find it much more fun to use a dowel plate to create my own. The advantage here is that you can use any species you have in your shop! Once the pins are cut to length, use a chisel or utility knife to sharpen one end to a blunt point. If you don&#8217;t do this, the pin will never be able to maneuver around the offset and you could very well break the pin or the tenon. Hammer it Home! Hammering the pins in place does take a little more effort than you are probably used to but keep at it. When the pin contacts the offset hole you will actually notice it starts tilting slightly. Once you reach the stock on the other side of the tenon, the pin straightens out again and bottoms out. Simply let the glue dry (if you used glue), and then use a flush trim saw to trim the excess pin stock. I recommend practicing this technique a few times before trying it on an important project. Once you get the hang of it, you&#8217;ll be drawboring mortise &amp; tenon joints till the cows come home. I don&#8217;t own any cows so I&#8217;m guessing that&#8217;s going to be a really long time for me.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[During the construction of my Split-Top Roubo Workbench (which is nearing completion), I was surprised to see Benchcrafted&apos;s plans calling for numerous tapped threads. Instead of attaching the various components of the leg vise using screws or bolts with nuts, they actually recommend cutting threads into the wood! I certainly understood the concept of tapping threads, but I never really considered applying it to woodworking. After picking up some taps and cutting a few myself, I am now a convert! I can just imagine the possibilites in the world of jig-building alone! Before learning to tap threads, I thought it would be helpful to review other types of mechanical fasteners and why they might not be as good as a bolt in a threaded hole. Nails Nails are pretty much a brute-force way of holding things together. The nail is driven into the wood, splitting and compressing fibers the whole way. Over time, natural forces cause the wood around the nail to compress even further eventually leading to joint failure. Screws A step up from a nail is the screw. When you rotate the screw into the wood, it pulls itself in and threads itself into the fibers. The good thing about screws is they are removable, but over the course of years the cut threads become wider and wider and the screw will eventually loosen up. Threaded Bolts This is the star of our show today. Once the threads are cut into the wood, you can pretty much remove and replace the bolt as many times as you want and it really doesn&apos;t do any damage to the wood. This is because the bolts threads are sized perfectly to fit into the threads that are cut into the wood. So this is perfect for applications where you may need to loosen and tighten components on a routine basis. Tapping ThreadsAll you need to make a threaded hole is a drill bit and a tap. The drill has to be a very specific size and and you can typically find drills and taps in matched sets such as this one. If you need help matching up your bolt, drill, and tap, refer to the handy charts on this page. Here&apos;s how the system works. The drill bit is used to create the perfect size hole. The tap is then driven into the hole cutting the threads on its way down. You have to be very careful not to strip the threads during this part of the process but in a dense hardwood like maple, you should have no trouble at all. While you might be tempted to use a traditional T-handled wrench for this, I found it much easier to use a power drill at a very slow speed. Tee Nuts One alternative that we can&apos;t forget to mention here is the Tee Nut. These little threaded inserts accomplish the same thing as the threaded bolt technique only instead of actually cutting threads, we simply insert a threaded insert into a hole. They are very easy to use but unfortunately, the way they connect to a workpiece leaves a little to be desired. Over time, the small teeth that go into the wood fibers can break or the wood itself can compress, causing the Tee Nut to lose its grip. So while they can get the job done, I don&apos;t really see them as a good long-term solution.]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
  <blip:categories>
    <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
  </blip:categories>
  <description><![CDATA[

<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/AYLthkAC.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#AYLthkAC" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

During the construction of my Split-Top Roubo Workbench (which is nearing completion), I was surprised to see Benchcrafted&apos;s plans calling for numerous tapped threads. Instead of attaching the various components of the leg vise using screws or bolts with nuts, they actually recommend cutting threads into the wood! I certainly understood the concept of tapping threads, but I never really considered applying it to woodworking. After picking up some taps and cutting a few myself, I am now a convert! I can just imagine the possibilites in the world of jig-building alone! Before learning to tap threads, I thought it would be helpful to review other types of mechanical fasteners and why they might not be as good as a bolt in a threaded hole. Nails Nails are pretty much a brute-force way of holding things together. The nail is driven into the wood, splitting and compressing fibers the whole way. Over time, natural forces cause the wood around the nail to compress even further eventually leading to joint failure. Screws A step up from a nail is the screw. When you rotate the screw into the wood, it pulls itself in and threads itself into the fibers. The good thing about screws is they are removable, but over the course of years the cut threads become wider and wider and the screw will eventually loosen up. Threaded Bolts This is the star of our show today. Once the threads are cut into the wood, you can pretty much remove and replace the bolt as many times as you want and it really doesn&apos;t do any damage to the wood. This is because the bolts threads are sized perfectly to fit into the threads that are cut into the wood. So this is perfect for applications where you may need to loosen and tighten components on a routine basis. Tapping ThreadsAll you need to make a threaded hole is a drill bit and a tap. The drill has to be a very specific size and and you can typically find drills and taps in matched sets such as this one. If you need help matching up your bolt, drill, and tap, refer to the handy charts on this page. Here&apos;s how the system works. The drill bit is used to create the perfect size hole. The tap is then driven into the hole cutting the threads on its way down. You have to be very careful not to strip the threads during this part of the process but in a dense hardwood like maple, you should have no trouble at all. While you might be tempted to use a traditional T-handled wrench for this, I found it much easier to use a power drill at a very slow speed. Tee Nuts One alternative that we can&apos;t forget to mention here is the Tee Nut. These little threaded inserts accomplish the same thing as the threaded bolt technique only instead of actually cutting threads, we simply insert a threaded insert into a hole. They are very easy to use but unfortunately, the way they connect to a workpiece leaves a little to be desired. Over time, the small teeth that go into the wood fibers can break or the wood itself can compress, causing the Tee Nut to lose its grip. So while they can get the job done, I don&apos;t really see them as a good long-term solution.

]]></description>
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  <comments>http://blip.tv/file/5964025</comments>
  <category>Educational</category>
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  <category>tapping threads</category>
  <pubDate>Fri, 24 Feb 2012 15:50:13 +0000</pubDate>
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  <title>87 - Dust In Time</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The most common topic request for Safety Week was dust and respirators. So here&apos;s a quick review of the dust and fumes that can make our lives miserable in the shop, and why we need respirators for pro-active protection. And below you will find a links to the exact respirator setup I like to use: the 3m 7500 Series. The link below is for large, but you can select a different size here: Small, Medium, Large. And don&apos;t forget the upgraded pink filters. Remember, if you want to use these and the vapor cartridges at the same time, you will need a special adapter. I picked mine up locally at a Dunn Edwards store.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/Af70aAI.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#Af70aAI" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

The most common topic request for Safety Week was dust and respirators. So here&apos;s a quick review of the dust and fumes that can make our lives miserable in the shop, and why we need respirators for pro-active protection. And below you will find a links to the exact respirator setup I like to use: the 3m 7500 Series. The link below is for large, but you can select a different size here: Small, Medium, Large. And don&apos;t forget the upgraded pink filters. Remember, if you want to use these and the vapor cartridges at the same time, you will need a special adapter. I picked mine up locally at a Dunn Edwards store.

]]></description>
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  <pubDate>Mon, 04 May 2009 09:09:41 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[It never hurts to review the basics! In this Whisper Mini, I show you how I like to install a drawer knob into a finished drawer. The key is to use some blue tape, a brad point bit, and a backer block. You&apos;ll end up with nice clean holes and a perfect installation!]]></blip:puredescription>
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    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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<br />

It never hurts to review the basics! In this Whisper Mini, I show you how I like to install a drawer knob into a finished drawer. The key is to use some blue tape, a brad point bit, and a backer block. You&apos;ll end up with nice clean holes and a perfect installation!

]]></description>
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  <category>Educational</category>
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  <pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 15:31:54 +0000</pubDate>
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  <title>165 - The Global Warping Effect</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[A look at how weather effects several wood species.]]></blip:puredescription>
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A look at how weather effects several wood species.

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  <pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:23:23 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[If you&apos;re not using marking gauges or some sort of blade to lay out your joinery, you are really missing out! I remember a conversation I had with William Ng at the William Ng School when he told me, &quot;If you want to make good joinery, use a pencil. But if you want to make great joinery, using a knife!&quot; Marking gauges come in several forms but they are all fundamentally similar. They consist of a post, a moveable fence, and a blade or scratch pin. My personal preference is for blades and you can see a fairly standard traditional marking gauge to the left. So why should you use one? Keep reading. Accuracy When you cut with a knife, the resulting line is maybe a couple thousandths of an inch wide. Compared to a big chunky pencil line, its much easier to know when you&apos;re exactly where you need to be in reference to that line. Additionally, marking gauges have fences which allow us to be consistent when marking multiple sides of a single workpiece for dovetails and tenons. Tearout No doubt you are very familiar with the concept of tearout. When you cut wood across the grain, you&apos;ll inevitably notice small bits of wood tearing out at the end of the board where the fibers are unsupported. So if you actually cut that grain ahead of time with a blade and then cut right up to the line with your saw, you end up with a nice clean crisp shoulder with absolutely no tearout. Tool Guides If you use scribe lines, you&apos;ll have a perfect place to lay the tip of your chisel or saw blade with absolute accuracy and consistency. If you try to line up the tool with a pencil line, you will almost always end up on one side of the line or the other. There&apos;s just too much variability there. But if you have a little trough from a marking gauge or knife, you&apos;ll have a no-brainer aid for locating the tool in the proper place.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

If you&apos;re not using marking gauges or some sort of blade to lay out your joinery, you are really missing out! I remember a conversation I had with William Ng at the William Ng School when he told me, &quot;If you want to make good joinery, use a pencil. But if you want to make great joinery, using a knife!&quot; Marking gauges come in several forms but they are all fundamentally similar. They consist of a post, a moveable fence, and a blade or scratch pin. My personal preference is for blades and you can see a fairly standard traditional marking gauge to the left. So why should you use one? Keep reading. Accuracy When you cut with a knife, the resulting line is maybe a couple thousandths of an inch wide. Compared to a big chunky pencil line, its much easier to know when you&apos;re exactly where you need to be in reference to that line. Additionally, marking gauges have fences which allow us to be consistent when marking multiple sides of a single workpiece for dovetails and tenons. Tearout No doubt you are very familiar with the concept of tearout. When you cut wood across the grain, you&apos;ll inevitably notice small bits of wood tearing out at the end of the board where the fibers are unsupported. So if you actually cut that grain ahead of time with a blade and then cut right up to the line with your saw, you end up with a nice clean crisp shoulder with absolutely no tearout. Tool Guides If you use scribe lines, you&apos;ll have a perfect place to lay the tip of your chisel or saw blade with absolute accuracy and consistency. If you try to line up the tool with a pencil line, you will almost always end up on one side of the line or the other. There&apos;s just too much variability there. But if you have a little trough from a marking gauge or knife, you&apos;ll have a no-brainer aid for locating the tool in the proper place.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[holiday party]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

holiday party

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  <pubDate>Sun, 18 Dec 2011 02:27:44 +0000</pubDate>
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  <title>163 - Calendar Frame Pt. 2</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The second and final part of the series focuses on the calendar frame details. We start by creating the front loading slots, then move on to creating the curve in the top rail, and finally we create the small pencil groove in the bottom rail. The frame is then glued up, the back panel is cut and installed and the roundover profile is routed on the perimeter. The finish for the maple frame is Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic Lacquer (we&apos;ll discuss the role of flatteners) and the finish for the white oak frame is Watco Teak Oil. Want To Build Along?Download the SketchUp file Download the PDF Materials Used Lumber supplied by Muterspaw Lumber Rubber Sanding Pads Lee Valley Drawing Bows Up-Cut Spiral Bit Round Nose Bit Extra Thin Wall Mount]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
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<br />

The second and final part of the series focuses on the calendar frame details. We start by creating the front loading slots, then move on to creating the curve in the top rail, and finally we create the small pencil groove in the bottom rail. The frame is then glued up, the back panel is cut and installed and the roundover profile is routed on the perimeter. The finish for the maple frame is Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic Lacquer (we&apos;ll discuss the role of flatteners) and the finish for the white oak frame is Watco Teak Oil. Want To Build Along?Download the SketchUp file Download the PDF Materials Used Lumber supplied by Muterspaw Lumber Rubber Sanding Pads Lee Valley Drawing Bows Up-Cut Spiral Bit Round Nose Bit Extra Thin Wall Mount

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  <media:title>163 - Calendar Frame Pt. 2</media:title>
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  <title>162 - Calendar Frame Pt. 1</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The calendar frame is a project that highlights the joys of simple joinery. The frame pieces are held together with half-lap joints which are as strong as they are basic. The frame is designed to allow calendar loading from the front unlike traditional frames that need to be removed from the wall every month. The first part of this series covers the wood selection, milling, cutting half-laps, layout and cutting various rabbets. For the sake of simplicity, all of the joinery is made at the router table and a single router bit.]]></blip:puredescription>
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    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
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<br />

The calendar frame is a project that highlights the joys of simple joinery. The frame pieces are held together with half-lap joints which are as strong as they are basic. The frame is designed to allow calendar loading from the front unlike traditional frames that need to be removed from the wall every month. The first part of this series covers the wood selection, milling, cutting half-laps, layout and cutting various rabbets. For the sake of simplicity, all of the joinery is made at the router table and a single router bit.

]]></description>
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  <media:title>162 - Calendar Frame Pt. 1</media:title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Its our annual Thanksgiving sale!! Everything in the store is on sale all weekend long. Here&apos;s the breakdown: Thanksgiving Day (11/24) - 25% OFF Friday (11/25) - 20% OFF Saturday &amp; Sunday (11/26-11/27) - 15% OFF So head on over to the new Wood Whisperer Store and pickup some of the awesome DVDs, templates, and TWW gear we have for sale!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Its our annual Thanksgiving sale!! Everything in the store is on sale all weekend long. Here&apos;s the breakdown: Thanksgiving Day (11/24) - 25% OFF Friday (11/25) - 20% OFF Saturday &amp; Sunday (11/26-11/27) - 15% OFF So head on over to the new Wood Whisperer Store and pickup some of the awesome DVDs, templates, and TWW gear we have for sale!

]]></description>
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  <title>161 - Sanding Efficiency</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Sanding is one of those tasks that nobody enjoys. Personally, I love finishing. But even crazy people like me would rather have someone else do all the sanding. So in order to get the best results with the least amount of effort, we need to consider the things that have the most dramatic effect on our sanding efficiency. Know Your Terminology If you understand sandpaper lingo, you&apos;ll find it much easier to choose the right material for your work. That means you&apos;ll get the job done faster, you won&apos;t waste as much paper, and the results will be better. First let&apos;s talk about the grit types: Aluminum Oxide: This is the most common material used for woodworking. Its very durable and lasts a long time because it is friable. That means as you use it, the grit breaks apart and leaves more sharp edges. So the paper sands consistently and lasts longer. You can use this stuff on more than just wood and you&apos;ll see it used for sanding finishes, plastics, metal and paint. Garnet: Garnet is a natural abrasive and it is generally only used to sand wood. The reason is because it is NOT friable. Instead, the grit wears down as you use it and ultimately leaves the wood with a smoother surface than aluminum oxide sandpaper. But I get such good results with my standard aluminum oxide papers, I don&apos;t really bother much with garnet. Ceramic: I don&apos;t even have any of this stuff in the shop. Its very hard and durable and generally used for aggressive stock or paint removal. Common to see these in more aggressive tools like belt sanders. Silicon Carbide: Easy to spot because of the color (Gray or black). As woodworkers, these are great for sanding and polishing finishes. They have super high grits and can be used wet or dry, so when we talk about we-sanding, this is the stuff we&apos;re using. Stearated - You&apos;ll very frequently hear the term &quot;stearated&quot; being used in reference to sand paper. Basically, this is a chemical treatment that prevents the paper from clogging. Think of it like a coating of soap that stops wood and finish from adhering to the grit. So this is great for sanding finishes, which tend to stick to paper easily, but it can be used on raw wood as well. Closed vs Open Coat - This property refers to the amount of space between the grit particles on the paper. Open coat means the grit is further apart and is less prone to clogging so it can last longer. Closed coat just means the grit particles are closer together and the paper can become clogged more easily. Armed with this terminology, you can look at pretty much any package of sandpaper and determine how you might be able to use it and whether it is appropriate for your project. Don&apos;t Skip Grits Sanding is nothing more than scratching a surface with grit, right? And its pretty obvious that 80 grit scratches are much deeper than 220 grit scratches. So if you jump from 80 to 220, you&apos;re asking a lot of that 220 grit. In fact, you&apos;ll work harder and go through a lot more paper if you try to remove 80 grit scratches with 220 grit. So it is much more efficient to jump from 80 to 120, and then to 220. Not only will you save time, but you won&apos;t go through quite as much paper in the process. Additionally, you&apos;ll have a much smoother/consistent surface in the end. (use whiteboard drawing for this?) Skipping grits also results in those little swirly pig tails. Use The Right Pad This is something we don&apos;t talk about much because most sanders only have one pad available. But did you know that the pad itself can have an impact on your sanding results? For most large, or perfectly flat surfaces, you can reach your desired surface finish pretty effectively using a soft pad. For more delicate pieces, curves or contours, you&#8217;re going to want to use a super-soft pad. For the most delicate of surfaces, or sensitive of curves, you can even employ a cushioned interface pad that eliminates any pressure so you lightly abrade the surface while maintaining a precise shape or profile. For jobs where a crisp edges are essential, a hard pad would be idea. For instance, when you&apos;re sanding a fairly narrow edge, a soft pad will round over the edges very quickly. But a hard pad keeps the the edge square and doesn&apos;t conform to the edge. No edge rounding over. Maybe do a sample with back light to show the difference. Festool has pads for all of these situations, including a special long life pad that is resistant to high temperatures. Excessive heat can actually destroy the plastic hook and loop material so in a heavy-use or industrial setting, a long life pad can really save you some headache. Use Dust Collection Most of you should know that the dust created by sanding is incredibly bad for you. I try to hammer this home every year during safety week. The best way to avoid breathing the stuff is to prevent it from getting into the air in the first place. So the way we do that is by effectively collecting the dust at the source. When you buy a sander, you should absolutely keep an eye out for a dust collection port and instead of just using the collection bag, connect it to a dust extractor. Aside from heath, there are other potential problems from dust getting in the air. Airborne dust tends to say airborne for a long time. It gets into your tools and eventually, settles into your finish. So if you sand in the morning, you can bet there is still airborne dust floating around when you apply your coats of finish. The end result is more work sanding dust nibs out of your finish. Now here&apos;s another factor that isn&apos;t discussed very much. You know how when you sharpen your planes and chisels, you have to clean off your chisel after each grit, to prevent contaminating your higher grit stones? The same thing can happen when you&apos;re sanding. Imagine sanding with 80 grit and no dust extraction. The 80 grit dust particles just sit on the surface and can set you back when you begin sanding with the next grit, say 120 grit. The sander is now pushing that 80 grit dust around on the surface and it becomes more difficult to sand efficiently. So if you remove all that 80 grit dust ahead of time, the 120 grit paper is free to do its job. Tips Don&apos;t buy cheap paper. Cheap paper actually costs you more in the long run. Cheap paper and cheap bonding agent means you&apos;ll go through it faster. You want to save $, buy bulk. Use a pencil to gauge your progress. Sand slowly 1&quot; per second. Don&apos;t tilt the sander.]]></blip:puredescription>
  <blip:license>No license (All rights reserved)</blip:license>
  <blip:categories>
    <blip:category>diy</blip:category>
    <blip:category>home&amp;garden</blip:category>
  </blip:categories>
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<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/AYLagVoC.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#AYLagVoC" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

Sanding is one of those tasks that nobody enjoys. Personally, I love finishing. But even crazy people like me would rather have someone else do all the sanding. So in order to get the best results with the least amount of effort, we need to consider the things that have the most dramatic effect on our sanding efficiency. Know Your Terminology If you understand sandpaper lingo, you&apos;ll find it much easier to choose the right material for your work. That means you&apos;ll get the job done faster, you won&apos;t waste as much paper, and the results will be better. First let&apos;s talk about the grit types: Aluminum Oxide: This is the most common material used for woodworking. Its very durable and lasts a long time because it is friable. That means as you use it, the grit breaks apart and leaves more sharp edges. So the paper sands consistently and lasts longer. You can use this stuff on more than just wood and you&apos;ll see it used for sanding finishes, plastics, metal and paint. Garnet: Garnet is a natural abrasive and it is generally only used to sand wood. The reason is because it is NOT friable. Instead, the grit wears down as you use it and ultimately leaves the wood with a smoother surface than aluminum oxide sandpaper. But I get such good results with my standard aluminum oxide papers, I don&apos;t really bother much with garnet. Ceramic: I don&apos;t even have any of this stuff in the shop. Its very hard and durable and generally used for aggressive stock or paint removal. Common to see these in more aggressive tools like belt sanders. Silicon Carbide: Easy to spot because of the color (Gray or black). As woodworkers, these are great for sanding and polishing finishes. They have super high grits and can be used wet or dry, so when we talk about we-sanding, this is the stuff we&apos;re using. Stearated - You&apos;ll very frequently hear the term &quot;stearated&quot; being used in reference to sand paper. Basically, this is a chemical treatment that prevents the paper from clogging. Think of it like a coating of soap that stops wood and finish from adhering to the grit. So this is great for sanding finishes, which tend to stick to paper easily, but it can be used on raw wood as well. Closed vs Open Coat - This property refers to the amount of space between the grit particles on the paper. Open coat means the grit is further apart and is less prone to clogging so it can last longer. Closed coat just means the grit particles are closer together and the paper can become clogged more easily. Armed with this terminology, you can look at pretty much any package of sandpaper and determine how you might be able to use it and whether it is appropriate for your project. Don&apos;t Skip Grits Sanding is nothing more than scratching a surface with grit, right? And its pretty obvious that 80 grit scratches are much deeper than 220 grit scratches. So if you jump from 80 to 220, you&apos;re asking a lot of that 220 grit. In fact, you&apos;ll work harder and go through a lot more paper if you try to remove 80 grit scratches with 220 grit. So it is much more efficient to jump from 80 to 120, and then to 220. Not only will you save time, but you won&apos;t go through quite as much paper in the process. Additionally, you&apos;ll have a much smoother/consistent surface in the end. (use whiteboard drawing for this?) Skipping grits also results in those little swirly pig tails. Use The Right Pad This is something we don&apos;t talk about much because most sanders only have one pad available. But did you know that the pad itself can have an impact on your sanding results? For most large, or perfectly flat surfaces, you can reach your desired surface finish pretty effectively using a soft pad. For more delicate pieces, curves or contours, you&#8217;re going to want to use a super-soft pad. For the most delicate of surfaces, or sensitive of curves, you can even employ a cushioned interface pad that eliminates any pressure so you lightly abrade the surface while maintaining a precise shape or profile. For jobs where a crisp edges are essential, a hard pad would be idea. For instance, when you&apos;re sanding a fairly narrow edge, a soft pad will round over the edges very quickly. But a hard pad keeps the the edge square and doesn&apos;t conform to the edge. No edge rounding over. Maybe do a sample with back light to show the difference. Festool has pads for all of these situations, including a special long life pad that is resistant to high temperatures. Excessive heat can actually destroy the plastic hook and loop material so in a heavy-use or industrial setting, a long life pad can really save you some headache. Use Dust Collection Most of you should know that the dust created by sanding is incredibly bad for you. I try to hammer this home every year during safety week. The best way to avoid breathing the stuff is to prevent it from getting into the air in the first place. So the way we do that is by effectively collecting the dust at the source. When you buy a sander, you should absolutely keep an eye out for a dust collection port and instead of just using the collection bag, connect it to a dust extractor. Aside from heath, there are other potential problems from dust getting in the air. Airborne dust tends to say airborne for a long time. It gets into your tools and eventually, settles into your finish. So if you sand in the morning, you can bet there is still airborne dust floating around when you apply your coats of finish. The end result is more work sanding dust nibs out of your finish. Now here&apos;s another factor that isn&apos;t discussed very much. You know how when you sharpen your planes and chisels, you have to clean off your chisel after each grit, to prevent contaminating your higher grit stones? The same thing can happen when you&apos;re sanding. Imagine sanding with 80 grit and no dust extraction. The 80 grit dust particles just sit on the surface and can set you back when you begin sanding with the next grit, say 120 grit. The sander is now pushing that 80 grit dust around on the surface and it becomes more difficult to sand efficiently. So if you remove all that 80 grit dust ahead of time, the 120 grit paper is free to do its job. Tips Don&apos;t buy cheap paper. Cheap paper actually costs you more in the long run. Cheap paper and cheap bonding agent means you&apos;ll go through it faster. You want to save $, buy bulk. Use a pencil to gauge your progress. Sand slowly 1&quot; per second. Don&apos;t tilt the sander.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Years ago, I borrowed some inspiration from Norm and built a simple plywood work table and used it as my tablesaw outfeed table. That original table is long gone but I recently built another one. I did include some changes and that&apos;s what this video is about. I think this design is a little better, but it was all based on the original concept. You can watch the original video here. All you need to make a table like this is a couple sheets of plywood and some hardwood (or in my case MDF) for trim. Products Mentioned:Heavy-Duty Flip Top Roller Stand HTC Roller TableQ&amp;A Topics: Finish for the outfeed table Split-Top Roubo New Fangled Workbench Boutique tools]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Years ago, I borrowed some inspiration from Norm and built a simple plywood work table and used it as my tablesaw outfeed table. That original table is long gone but I recently built another one. I did include some changes and that&apos;s what this video is about. I think this design is a little better, but it was all based on the original concept. You can watch the original video here. All you need to make a table like this is a couple sheets of plywood and some hardwood (or in my case MDF) for trim. Products Mentioned:Heavy-Duty Flip Top Roller Stand HTC Roller TableQ&amp;A Topics: Finish for the outfeed table Split-Top Roubo New Fangled Workbench Boutique tools

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  <pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 23:42:45 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[small version of episode 159]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

small version of episode 159

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  <pubDate>Mon, 03 Oct 2011 15:48:13 +0000</pubDate>
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  <title>159 - Rocking Horse Pt. 2</title>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The rocking horse is a great project for new and experienced woodworkers alike so its perfect for our charity build. If you would like to build along, I suggest downloading the plan today while it is still free. You can also download full-size patterns here. The second and final video in this series covers finishing and assembly. As with any project, you should always ask yourself if it might be better to pre-finish the parts. Since the rocking horse would be incredibly difficult to finish after assembly and all of our parts are screwed together, pre-finishing was a no-brainer. I&apos;ll show you some cool tricks for coloring the horses mane as well as how to effectively plug the counter-sink holes (after finishing). Here are some of the tools I used: Tapered Plug Cutter General Finishes Gel Stain BullsEye ShellacHow the Charity Works For each person who completes a rocking horse (one per person), I am donating $1 to Livestrong. We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation. With their help and yours, we are trying to reach our goal of $10,000! If you don&apos;t want to build along you can always donate directly. And if you&apos;re interested in becoming a sponsor, please feel free to contact me. 100% of proceeds benefit Livestrong. When you finish your rocking horse, simply send me a picture and your build will count toward our final tally. All pictures must be submitted by November 14th. Our Sponsors Special thanks to our individual sponsors: Erik Gilling, Joseph Buscemi, and Jason Small.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The rocking horse is a great project for new and experienced woodworkers alike so its perfect for our charity build. If you would like to build along, I suggest downloading the plan today while it is still free. You can also download full-size patterns here. The second and final video in this series covers finishing and assembly. As with any project, you should always ask yourself if it might be better to pre-finish the parts. Since the rocking horse would be incredibly difficult to finish after assembly and all of our parts are screwed together, pre-finishing was a no-brainer. I&apos;ll show you some cool tricks for coloring the horses mane as well as how to effectively plug the counter-sink holes (after finishing). Here are some of the tools I used: Tapered Plug Cutter General Finishes Gel Stain BullsEye ShellacHow the Charity Works For each person who completes a rocking horse (one per person), I am donating $1 to Livestrong. We also have numerous corporate and individual sponsors who are matching my donation. With their help and yours, we are trying to reach our goal of $10,000! If you don&apos;t want to build along you can always donate directly. And if you&apos;re interested in becoming a sponsor, please feel free to contact me. 100% of proceeds benefit Livestrong. When you finish your rocking horse, simply send me a picture and your build will count toward our final tally. All pictures must be submitted by November 14th. Our Sponsors Special thanks to our individual sponsors: Erik Gilling, Joseph Buscemi, and Jason Small.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The Rocking Horse charity build benefiting Livestrong!]]></blip:puredescription>
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The Rocking Horse charity build benefiting Livestrong!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[A live session where I discuss my new torsion box assembly table.]]></blip:puredescription>
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A live session where I discuss my new torsion box assembly table.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[One of my all-time favorite hand tools is the router plane. However, I very rarely use it to create joinery. In my shop, its sole purpose is fine-tuning. The blade can be set at a fixed distance from the base so it is incredibly effective at creating dados and grooves of a consistent depth. When I cut dados in large boards or plywood, the pieces inevitably lift up to some extent. The scary thing is you might not even realize it&apos;s happening. But when you go to assemble the case, you can&apos;t figure out why the sides are bowing out! Chances are, your dados and grooves were not cut at a consistent depth. Enter the router plane! I make a habit of setting my router plane and quickly going over each and every dado in my projects. You&apos;d be surprised at how much material this bad boy catches, and the subsequent headaches it can prevent. If you don&apos;t already have one, you should definitely pick one up! They are so choice!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

One of my all-time favorite hand tools is the router plane. However, I very rarely use it to create joinery. In my shop, its sole purpose is fine-tuning. The blade can be set at a fixed distance from the base so it is incredibly effective at creating dados and grooves of a consistent depth. When I cut dados in large boards or plywood, the pieces inevitably lift up to some extent. The scary thing is you might not even realize it&apos;s happening. But when you go to assemble the case, you can&apos;t figure out why the sides are bowing out! Chances are, your dados and grooves were not cut at a consistent depth. Enter the router plane! I make a habit of setting my router plane and quickly going over each and every dado in my projects. You&apos;d be surprised at how much material this bad boy catches, and the subsequent headaches it can prevent. If you don&apos;t already have one, you should definitely pick one up! They are so choice!

]]></description>
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An introduction to the chemistry behind waterborne finishes and some tips for spraying via HVLP.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can put in your virtual &quot;tool cabinet&quot; for future use. I also cover the layout of my tools and how to secure them inside the case. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can put in your virtual &quot;tool cabinet&quot; for future use. I also cover the layout of my tools and how to secure them inside the case. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[As is always the case, my designs tend to change on the fly. And since this was a Guild project, a lot of Guild member input went into the design modifications. So this video begins with a quick screencast showing you some of the changes I made to the tool cabinet since our last presentation. Viva la Sketchup! With the design mostly complete, we can start the construction phase. My goal is to build the project entirely out of Baltic Birch plywood. Its cheap, stable, and doesn&apos;t look half bad even without edge treatments! It really is the perfect material for shop furniture and jigs. Now one thing to keep in mind is that my ultimate goal here is to teach you how to build your own cabinet. This is completely different than giving you a plan and saying, &quot;Copy this!&quot;. I am providing you with my working Sketchup file and my cut list, but due to the nature of plywood and its variations in thickness, you will absolutely need to put your thinking cap on and do some design work on your own. But with the Sketchup File, the video, and your noggin, you have everything you need to build this project or some variation of it. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

As is always the case, my designs tend to change on the fly. And since this was a Guild project, a lot of Guild member input went into the design modifications. So this video begins with a quick screencast showing you some of the changes I made to the tool cabinet since our last presentation. Viva la Sketchup! With the design mostly complete, we can start the construction phase. My goal is to build the project entirely out of Baltic Birch plywood. Its cheap, stable, and doesn&apos;t look half bad even without edge treatments! It really is the perfect material for shop furniture and jigs. Now one thing to keep in mind is that my ultimate goal here is to teach you how to build your own cabinet. This is completely different than giving you a plan and saying, &quot;Copy this!&quot;. I am providing you with my working Sketchup file and my cut list, but due to the nature of plywood and its variations in thickness, you will absolutely need to put your thinking cap on and do some design work on your own. But with the Sketchup File, the video, and your noggin, you have everything you need to build this project or some variation of it. Download the free Sketchup Plan today! Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com

]]></description>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[This Saturday, July 23rd, everything in the TWW Store will be 25% OFF! So if you&apos;ve been waiting to pick up that book, DVD, mug, hat, t-shirt, or anything else, now is a great time to do it! The sale is for one day only so don&apos;t miss it! And instead of just doing a boring sales announcement video, I thought it would be fun to introduce you to the folks behind the scenes who make it all happen: my mom and step-dad. Without them, I am confident that we wouldn&apos;t even have a store. There just isn&apos;t enough time in the day for me and Nicole to fulfill the orders. I hope you enjoy!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

This Saturday, July 23rd, everything in the TWW Store will be 25% OFF! So if you&apos;ve been waiting to pick up that book, DVD, mug, hat, t-shirt, or anything else, now is a great time to do it! The sale is for one day only so don&apos;t miss it! And instead of just doing a boring sales announcement video, I thought it would be fun to introduce you to the folks behind the scenes who make it all happen: my mom and step-dad. Without them, I am confident that we wouldn&apos;t even have a store. There just isn&apos;t enough time in the day for me and Nicole to fulfill the orders. I hope you enjoy!

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Every shop needs a tool chest. So I set out to build a beautiful wall-hanging unit made completely from plywood. Plywood is inexpensive, durable, easy to find, and perfect for shop furniture. The first video in the series focuses entirely on the design. Now I&#8217;m no George Walker and I would guess that you aren&#8217;t either. So how do we &#8220;average Joe designers&#8221; go about developing a project concept from start to finish? I&#8217;ll show ya! My general workflow looks something like this: Identify the requirements &#8211;&gt; Establish what we know &#8211;&gt; Determine what we don&#8217;t know &#8211;&gt; Use SketchUp (roughly) to help define dimensions &#8211;&gt; Assess visual appeal and apply relevant design rules if possible Notice I said I only use SketchUp &#8220;roughly&#8221;. While SketchUp is an incredibly powerful tool and I envy those that are proficient in it, you certainly don&#8217;t have to be an expert to use it. Who says you need to sketch the entire project from top to bottom, inside and out? If you can draw rectangles and lines, you already know enough to help answer some fundamental design questions on any project you build. And if you have the time and desire to get deeper into the program, go for it! Your work will only benefit from the additional detail. But if you aren&#8217;t inclined to click &#8216;n drag design, you can still use this incredibly helpful program at the most basic level and still get something useful out of it. Thankfully, Guild member Robert (TurkVA) is one of those fancy proficient SketchUp users, and he was able to create a SketchUp plan which is available for you to download now. Remember, this is not a &#8220;how-to&#8221;; its a &#8220;how-I-do&#8221;. And you&#8217;ll see that I actually have to change my original design after I see how things are going to look in Sketchup. So its a fairly unfiltered look into my process. Oh, and Nicole is back to show us her sweet acting skillz! I should also mention that this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[A close look at a handy shop tool: the hollow chisel mortiser! Prcings, shopping tips, features to look for, setup techniques, and sharpening methods.]]></blip:puredescription>
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A close look at a handy shop tool: the hollow chisel mortiser! Prcings, shopping tips, features to look for, setup techniques, and sharpening methods.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Krylon recently released a line of exterior wood stains in spray form. A very convenient way to transfer color to your outdoor projects! I sprayed 6 different test boards (maple and white oak) just to see how well the stain applies. Watch the video to see the results and hear my opinion of the product. If you want more information, check out SaveOurSaturdays.com]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Krylon recently released a line of exterior wood stains in spray form. A very convenient way to transfer color to your outdoor projects! I sprayed 6 different test boards (maple and white oak) just to see how well the stain applies. Watch the video to see the results and hear my opinion of the product. If you want more information, check out SaveOurSaturdays.com

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Making an old cabinet door look new and contemporary.]]></blip:puredescription>
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Making an old cabinet door look new and contemporary.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The GRR-Ripper is an ingenius safety device from the folks at MicroJig. Most power tools can injure you in two primary ways: kickback or blade/bit contact. The GRR-Ripper protects you from both types of injury. It not only allows you to have better control of the workpiece, it also protects your hands should disaster strike. In addition, the GRR-Ripper makes it possible to perform cuts that would otherwise be extremely dangerous, such as cutting odd shapes and thin strips. To learn more about the GRR-Ripper, head to MicroJig.com or MicroJig&apos;s YouTube Page. Get a grip on your work today! The Giveaway MicroJig was kind enough to offer up three GRR-Rippers as a random giveaway! All you have to do is leave a meaningful comment on any one of this week&apos;s safety-related posts. The more you comment, the better your chances of winning. But if you just say something silly, that won&apos;t count. Winners will be announced on Friday May 6th. Giveaway is limited to US and CANADA only. Products Shown in the Video Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) The Micro Jig GRR-Ripper&#8482; lets you feed both sides of a workpiece parallel through the saw blade and eliminates bare hand feeding.Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&apos;&apos; Kerf Make table saw rips safer and prevent kickback! Made to handle professional use, even with heavy panels and dense solid wood. Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&apos;&apos; Kerf Micro Jig ZeroPlay&#8482; Guide Bar System Each guide bar is composed of two interlocking plastic bars that adjust laterally to the exact width of your miter slot to stabilize your jigs. Guide bars are easily calibrated from the top of jig.Micro Jig ZeroPlay&#8482; Guide Bar System]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The GRR-Ripper is an ingenius safety device from the folks at MicroJig. Most power tools can injure you in two primary ways: kickback or blade/bit contact. The GRR-Ripper protects you from both types of injury. It not only allows you to have better control of the workpiece, it also protects your hands should disaster strike. In addition, the GRR-Ripper makes it possible to perform cuts that would otherwise be extremely dangerous, such as cutting odd shapes and thin strips. To learn more about the GRR-Ripper, head to MicroJig.com or MicroJig&apos;s YouTube Page. Get a grip on your work today! The Giveaway MicroJig was kind enough to offer up three GRR-Rippers as a random giveaway! All you have to do is leave a meaningful comment on any one of this week&apos;s safety-related posts. The more you comment, the better your chances of winning. But if you just say something silly, that won&apos;t count. Winners will be announced on Friday May 6th. Giveaway is limited to US and CANADA only. Products Shown in the Video Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) The Micro Jig GRR-Ripper&#8482; lets you feed both sides of a workpiece parallel through the saw blade and eliminates bare hand feeding.Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Basic 3D Push Block System (GR-100) Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&apos;&apos; Kerf Make table saw rips safer and prevent kickback! Made to handle professional use, even with heavy panels and dense solid wood. Micro Jig Splitter Steel Pro System, 1/8&apos;&apos; Kerf Micro Jig ZeroPlay&#8482; Guide Bar System Each guide bar is composed of two interlocking plastic bars that adjust laterally to the exact width of your miter slot to stabilize your jigs. Guide bars are easily calibrated from the top of jig.Micro Jig ZeroPlay&#8482; Guide Bar System

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Every year, I like to take some time off for my own woodworking eduction. I truly believe that a craftsman never stops learning. Even when you think you know all there is about a technique or topic, there is always something to be gained from another perspective. A 5-day class at the William Ng School fits the bill quite nicely for an educational adventure. The William Ng School is located in Anaheim, Ca and features class projects that really speak to me; lots of Asian-influenced work as well as numerous Greene &amp; Greene pieces. Also, its only about a 6 hour drive, so I can build any size project and bring it back with me. The instructors are always top-notch and the shop assistants are helpful and knowledgeable. The lunches are excellent and there is always enough coffee and green tea to go around. If you&apos;ve never taken a 5-day class, I&apos;d highly recommend it. You will be amazed at what you can build with no distractions in a well-outfitted shop. I&apos;m not sure at what point in my life five days of non-stop manual labor became fun, but I&apos;m there now! This is my ideal vacation! Last year, I attended Darrell Peart&apos;s Aurora End Table class (see the 6 Days to Aurora series of posts ), so this year I decided to take William Ng&apos;s Greene &amp; Greene Coffee Table class. The tables compliment one another and more importantly, Nicole has been waiting patiently for me to build her a coffee table for the last ten years! Scratch one off the honey-do list! Part of this little vacation is NOT documenting every step of the process, but I do enjoy taking photos. So that&apos;s what I have for you here: a pictorial that documents the process in pictures. I hope you enjoy.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Every year, I like to take some time off for my own woodworking eduction. I truly believe that a craftsman never stops learning. Even when you think you know all there is about a technique or topic, there is always something to be gained from another perspective. A 5-day class at the William Ng School fits the bill quite nicely for an educational adventure. The William Ng School is located in Anaheim, Ca and features class projects that really speak to me; lots of Asian-influenced work as well as numerous Greene &amp; Greene pieces. Also, its only about a 6 hour drive, so I can build any size project and bring it back with me. The instructors are always top-notch and the shop assistants are helpful and knowledgeable. The lunches are excellent and there is always enough coffee and green tea to go around. If you&apos;ve never taken a 5-day class, I&apos;d highly recommend it. You will be amazed at what you can build with no distractions in a well-outfitted shop. I&apos;m not sure at what point in my life five days of non-stop manual labor became fun, but I&apos;m there now! This is my ideal vacation! Last year, I attended Darrell Peart&apos;s Aurora End Table class (see the 6 Days to Aurora series of posts ), so this year I decided to take William Ng&apos;s Greene &amp; Greene Coffee Table class. The tables compliment one another and more importantly, Nicole has been waiting patiently for me to build her a coffee table for the last ten years! Scratch one off the honey-do list! Part of this little vacation is NOT documenting every step of the process, but I do enjoy taking photos. So that&apos;s what I have for you here: a pictorial that documents the process in pictures. I hope you enjoy.

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Scraper sharpening with William Ng.

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<br />

Its all about dye, &#8220;Wood Whisperer Style&#8221;. My goal with this video is to grossly simplify the confusing world of dyes, while also giving you the knowledge you need to determine the working characteristics of any dye just by looking at the ingredients list or MSDS. We&#8217;ll discuss the different types of dyes, how to apply them, and we&#8217;ll even get into the chemistry behind water-based finishes and a key family of solvents known as glycol ethers. Knowledge is power!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[After I posted the previous Shop Journal entry, there was about two weeks of post-construction inactivity. Essentially, this was the calm before the storm. I had just a couple of days to move some smaller items into the new space before the movers came for the big power tools. The move itself went well, with the exception of one near-mishap, which I happend to get footage of. Now that the tools are in place, its time to start getting the place ready for some sawdust-slingin&#8217; action! I hope you enjoy this insider&#8217;s look into my shop move. Just a quick technical note. This video was shot entirely on my little Flip Cam. You&#8217;ll notice a much &#8220;shakier&#8221; presentation than normal. But its the small form factor that allowed me to get this footage in the first place. So hopefully it won&#8217;t be too distracting.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

After I posted the previous Shop Journal entry, there was about two weeks of post-construction inactivity. Essentially, this was the calm before the storm. I had just a couple of days to move some smaller items into the new space before the movers came for the big power tools. The move itself went well, with the exception of one near-mishap, which I happend to get footage of. Now that the tools are in place, its time to start getting the place ready for some sawdust-slingin&#8217; action! I hope you enjoy this insider&#8217;s look into my shop move. Just a quick technical note. This video was shot entirely on my little Flip Cam. You&#8217;ll notice a much &#8220;shakier&#8221; presentation than normal. But its the small form factor that allowed me to get this footage in the first place. So hopefully it won&#8217;t be too distracting.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Moving back to the new old shop. Here&apos;s a look at some of the changes coming down the line.]]></blip:puredescription>
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Moving back to the new old shop. Here&apos;s a look at some of the changes coming down the line.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[In the Weekend Wall Shelf episode, I showed you how to use a parallel jig to create dados. But the jig was originally created for making coves at the tablesaw. So here&apos;s a special jig made specifically for the purpose of creating dados with your router. The best part is, you can get exact-width dados EVERY TIME! This jig was developed and demonstrated in the current Guild Build as part of the Wall-Hanging Cabinet series. So this is a little sample of what Guild members are enjoying every week during the build season. If you are interested in joining the Guild, learn more here . This jig can be made to any size for any bit/guide bushing combination. Just remember that once you use a particular bit/bushing combo with the jig, you are stuck with it. Using a different combination will defeat the purpose of the jig. I used a 5/8&quot; guide bushing and a 1/2&quot; router bit. Don&apos;t forget to download the PDF and SketchUp drawing for the Exact Width Dado Jig! Guild Member Jig Modifications I requested ideas modifications to the jig, and a couple Guild members were quick to off suggestions. If you have a modification, upload it to our SketchUp Library and share the link in the comments below. Denny&apos;s Suggestion Robert&apos;s Suggestion (SketchUp File) Resources JIG IT&#174; Hardware Kit This is a nice multi-pack of jig-building parts. Assorted T-bolts, knobs, and inserts for customizing your own jigs and fixtures for your shop. Very handy to have around.JIG IT&#174; Hardware Kit]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

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A simple and elegant Honduran Mahogany wall shelf that can be completed in a weekend!

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Assembling a River Bend windsor chair kit.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[In the final part of this series, I do the final work on the stretchers and then its time for the glueup! The table top gets a special profile as well as a few cable recesses for the monitor and mouse cables. The top is attached via screws in elongated slots, and the counter sink holes are hidden using tapered plugs. Of course, the desk needs a good finish and Arm-R-Seal Stain fits the bill nicely! Topics Covered: Milling the cross-members Cross-member joinery Small knot repair Final leg sculpting Sanding methods for cross-grain situations Using a special table top router bit Attaching the top to the base Making elongated screw slots the easy way Creating tapered plugs The Glueup Finishing and Sanding Strategies Dust Safety Finishing Justification: Color and Sheen Pore-Filling Products]]></blip:puredescription>
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In the final part of this series, I do the final work on the stretchers and then its time for the glueup! The table top gets a special profile as well as a few cable recesses for the monitor and mouse cables. The top is attached via screws in elongated slots, and the counter sink holes are hidden using tapered plugs. Of course, the desk needs a good finish and Arm-R-Seal Stain fits the bill nicely! Topics Covered: Milling the cross-members Cross-member joinery Small knot repair Final leg sculpting Sanding methods for cross-grain situations Using a special table top router bit Attaching the top to the base Making elongated screw slots the easy way Creating tapered plugs The Glueup Finishing and Sanding Strategies Dust Safety Finishing Justification: Color and Sheen Pore-Filling Products

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Now that the leg pieces are cut to their rough shape, we need to focus on blending the parts using the router, the ball mill, and the rasp. Its a process that has a lot of wiggle room depending on your tool preferences and the final shape you are trying to achieve. I also tackle the initial work on the table top, which turns out to be a little tricky due to the size and weight of the pieces. And even though I&apos;m not completely done with the project, I have to start the finishing process for strategic reasons. Topics Covered:Creating the &quot;rounded look&quot; using roundover bits.Shaping and blending using a ball mill, a rasp, and sandpaper. A clever way to use custom cauls for clamping the angled legs.Using epoxy and a high density filler as an adhesive.Planing the 14&quot; wide 6/4 mahogany pieces for the table top using the skip planing technique.Using hand planes to prep a long edge for power jointing.Alternative ways of prepping an edge for jointing.Gluing up the top.Creating a template for the curved ends of the table top.Finishing strategy (the bottom of the table top)]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

Now that the leg pieces are cut to their rough shape, we need to focus on blending the parts using the router, the ball mill, and the rasp. Its a process that has a lot of wiggle room depending on your tool preferences and the final shape you are trying to achieve. I also tackle the initial work on the table top, which turns out to be a little tricky due to the size and weight of the pieces. And even though I&apos;m not completely done with the project, I have to start the finishing process for strategic reasons. Topics Covered:Creating the &quot;rounded look&quot; using roundover bits.Shaping and blending using a ball mill, a rasp, and sandpaper. A clever way to use custom cauls for clamping the angled legs.Using epoxy and a high density filler as an adhesive.Planing the 14&quot; wide 6/4 mahogany pieces for the table top using the skip planing technique.Using hand planes to prep a long edge for power jointing.Alternative ways of prepping an edge for jointing.Gluing up the top.Creating a template for the curved ends of the table top.Finishing strategy (the bottom of the table top)

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holiday

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The trestle table is one of the oldest table forms known to man. Its simple, strong, and for the modern woodworker, its very fun to build. My trestle table is actually going to be used as a PC gaming desk for Nicole and I. So its size and shape must be conducive to long gaming sessions (which means the occasional meal will be eaten there as well). I take you through my entire design and template-creation process and by the end of the video we&apos;ll have our rough trestle legs. For expedience and simplicity, I used the Festool Domino for the joinery. When joining pieces that come together at an angle, its a real time-saver! Topics Covered: Design Justification The Value of Drawing Creating Full-Sized Drawings]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The trestle table is one of the oldest table forms known to man. Its simple, strong, and for the modern woodworker, its very fun to build. My trestle table is actually going to be used as a PC gaming desk for Nicole and I. So its size and shape must be conducive to long gaming sessions (which means the occasional meal will be eaten there as well). I take you through my entire design and template-creation process and by the end of the video we&apos;ll have our rough trestle legs. For expedience and simplicity, I used the Festool Domino for the joinery. When joining pieces that come together at an angle, its a real time-saver! Topics Covered: Design Justification The Value of Drawing Creating Full-Sized Drawings

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The base for the advent calendar is made with 1/2&#8243; ply, butt joints and brad nails. Doesn&#8217;t get simpler than that! Once the construction is complete, I embark on a journey into the world of faux finishing with a 2-part distressed paint job. Now I know my way around the finish cabinet, but one of my weak areas is acrylic paint. I just never work with the stuff, let alone creating faux finishes. So the best way to learn sometimes is to jump in and do it. And maybe its not too surprising that things aren&#8217;t exactly perfect. But with a little elbow grease, the Advent Calendar is now resting comfortable on the ledge in my entrance hallway.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The base for the advent calendar is made with 1/2&#8243; ply, butt joints and brad nails. Doesn&#8217;t get simpler than that! Once the construction is complete, I embark on a journey into the world of faux finishing with a 2-part distressed paint job. Now I know my way around the finish cabinet, but one of my weak areas is acrylic paint. I just never work with the stuff, let alone creating faux finishes. So the best way to learn sometimes is to jump in and do it. And maybe its not too surprising that things aren&#8217;t exactly perfect. But with a little elbow grease, the Advent Calendar is now resting comfortable on the ledge in my entrance hallway.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[In the second part of this three-part series, I continue the construction of the main grid-work. I show you a cool trick for cutting small dowel pieces and then the assembly begins. For small parts like this, I actually have a cool method that involves the use of two different glues. I then cut the triangle shape using a circular saw and a guide, which worked surprisingly well. Finally, I add the mitered trim pieces and our Advent Calendar proper is fully constructed!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

In the second part of this three-part series, I continue the construction of the main grid-work. I show you a cool trick for cutting small dowel pieces and then the assembly begins. For small parts like this, I actually have a cool method that involves the use of two different glues. I then cut the triangle shape using a circular saw and a guide, which worked surprisingly well. Finally, I add the mitered trim pieces and our Advent Calendar proper is fully constructed!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[The holidays are quickly approaching, and this year I&apos;m making an Advent Calendar. If you aren&apos;t familiar with Advent, check out this article. Now I&apos;m not a religious man but I do celebrate Christmas, and I have the fondest memories counting down the days in December as a child. Who am I kidding? I STILL count down the days until Christmas!! This Advent calendar is relatively basic in design, but has 25 little cubbies with enough room for a special treat or a secret message. In the first part of the two-part series, I start working on the grid structure and the hanging of the doors. The grid structure is creating using a shop-made jig that is very similar to a box-joint jig. And if you&apos;ve been following the Shop Journal on the blog, you&apos;ll know how much of a pain the door hanging has been (see links below). But I finally came up with a good solution that I think you are going to like. It involves the use of Blind Nails from FastCap (pictured left). Want to build along with me? Download the plans and start making some sawdust: Advent Calendar SketchUp Plan Advent Calendar PDF Plan Associated Shop Journal Posts: Jig For the Advent Calendar Tiny Door Hinges http://thewoodwhisperer.com/more-tiny-door-hinges/]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

The holidays are quickly approaching, and this year I&apos;m making an Advent Calendar. If you aren&apos;t familiar with Advent, check out this article. Now I&apos;m not a religious man but I do celebrate Christmas, and I have the fondest memories counting down the days in December as a child. Who am I kidding? I STILL count down the days until Christmas!! This Advent calendar is relatively basic in design, but has 25 little cubbies with enough room for a special treat or a secret message. In the first part of the two-part series, I start working on the grid structure and the hanging of the doors. The grid structure is creating using a shop-made jig that is very similar to a box-joint jig. And if you&apos;ve been following the Shop Journal on the blog, you&apos;ll know how much of a pain the door hanging has been (see links below). But I finally came up with a good solution that I think you are going to like. It involves the use of Blind Nails from FastCap (pictured left). Want to build along with me? Download the plans and start making some sawdust: Advent Calendar SketchUp Plan Advent Calendar PDF Plan Associated Shop Journal Posts: Jig For the Advent Calendar Tiny Door Hinges http://thewoodwhisperer.com/more-tiny-door-hinges/

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[When most of us think of a wooden bowl, we think of the lathe. But you can also make bowls using the router! All you need is a template for the desired shape and a pattern bit to remove the stock. And fortunately Eagle America has holiday-themed kits for making some incredibly cool bowls. These make great gifts and they are super easy to make. The video shows you not only how to make a router bowl, but also how to deal with really wide stock. You&apos;ve heard me discuss my &quot;hybrid&quot; approach to woodworking (using both and and power tools)? Well this is an excellent example. Frequently, when I have stock that is too wide for my jointer, I use a hand plane to mostly-flatten one side. Once the piece sits stable on a flat surface, I can let my power planer do the rest of the work. Its a great technique and doesn&apos;t require excessive time and effort with the hand tools. Topics Covered:Milling wide boards using the &quot;hybrid&quot; method.The templates available from EagleAmerica.com.Using a forstner bit to hog out the bulk of the material.Using a special pattern bit to finalize the inside shape of the bowl.Bandsawing to the outside shape of the bowl.Techniques for sanding the bowl and easing the edges. Finishing the bowl with a water-based varnish.Purchasing the following products will help support the show:Contoured Profile Sanding GripsSand curves, corners, uneven surfaces and hard-to-reach spots. Now you can reach into concave curves that once would have eluded you.Contoured Profile Sanding GripsHalloween Bowl &amp; Tray TemplatesThe candy, chips and cheeses won&apos;t look any better than this. Impress family and friends at your upcoming gatherings with hand made serving bowls and trays that you made with your router. Halloween Bowl &amp; Tray TemplatesGlue RollerSpread glue the fast and easy way using this inexpensive roller. 4&quot; Glue Roller]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

When most of us think of a wooden bowl, we think of the lathe. But you can also make bowls using the router! All you need is a template for the desired shape and a pattern bit to remove the stock. And fortunately Eagle America has holiday-themed kits for making some incredibly cool bowls. These make great gifts and they are super easy to make. The video shows you not only how to make a router bowl, but also how to deal with really wide stock. You&apos;ve heard me discuss my &quot;hybrid&quot; approach to woodworking (using both and and power tools)? Well this is an excellent example. Frequently, when I have stock that is too wide for my jointer, I use a hand plane to mostly-flatten one side. Once the piece sits stable on a flat surface, I can let my power planer do the rest of the work. Its a great technique and doesn&apos;t require excessive time and effort with the hand tools. Topics Covered:Milling wide boards using the &quot;hybrid&quot; method.The templates available from EagleAmerica.com.Using a forstner bit to hog out the bulk of the material.Using a special pattern bit to finalize the inside shape of the bowl.Bandsawing to the outside shape of the bowl.Techniques for sanding the bowl and easing the edges. Finishing the bowl with a water-based varnish.Purchasing the following products will help support the show:Contoured Profile Sanding GripsSand curves, corners, uneven surfaces and hard-to-reach spots. Now you can reach into concave curves that once would have eluded you.Contoured Profile Sanding GripsHalloween Bowl &amp; Tray TemplatesThe candy, chips and cheeses won&apos;t look any better than this. Impress family and friends at your upcoming gatherings with hand made serving bowls and trays that you made with your router. Halloween Bowl &amp; Tray TemplatesGlue RollerSpread glue the fast and easy way using this inexpensive roller. 4&quot; Glue Roller

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[After taking a couple days to catch up on stuff, I am finally ready to share my Woodworking in America experience with you. This was my first WIA and my expectations were building all year long. I even vowed to skip IWF (the big tool show in Atlanta), just to make sure I could focus all my attention on this education-focused conference. And am I ever glad I did! The Marketplace The show consists of two main areas: a marketplace and the educational sessions. The marketplace was approximately the same size as the show floor at the traveling woodworking shows, only the vendors here were much more engaged and of a higher caliber. Even if you didn&apos;t attend a single session, you could get some quality hands-on right on the marketplace floor! Somehow, I managed not to spend a dime but many of my comrades weren&apos;t so lucky. In fact, I wound up helping some folks spend their hard-earned cash. And while the marketplace could easily eat up a full day, I filled most of my time with the sessions upstairs. The Sessions I originally had a nice schedule set up, but its amazing how quickly that all changes when you start meeting up with friends and going to sessions together. Here are some of the highlights from the sessions I attended: Michael Fortune: I went to Michael&apos;s discussion on cutting veneer. The funny thing about a class like this is that there is very little discussion about actually cutting veneer. 95% of the talk is about setting up your bandsaw. Obviously you won&apos;t get very far if your bandsaw isn&apos;t set up properly. I enjoyed hearing Michael&apos;s perspective on the bandsaw and some of the things he considers to be myths. These are things that directly conflict with some of the conventional wisdom that I learned from some very knowledgeable folks, like David Marks. It just goes to show you that there is always room for more than one right way to do something. To sum up, Michael says that by using low tension and setting the blade in the middle of the tire, there should be no need to adjust for the drift of the blade. And if you use an aggressive blade for resawing, a 1/3HP machine should be powerful enough for just about any resaw task. He also says the whole coplaner wheel thing is crap. This talk truly made me re-examine a number of things I simply accepted as fact. Frank Klausz: Frank&apos;s demonstration was on the secret mitered dovetail. I don&apos;t have a picture but I&apos;ll try to explain this. Imaging a drawer with a mitered corner. But behind that miter, hidden inside is a set of dovetails. The process involves cutting a short miter into the adjoining piece first, then cutting a half-blind dovetail inside the new edge. Sounds more complicated than it is but Frank&apos;s humor and accent would make watching him play a game of ball in a cup fun and entertaining. I&apos;m half Hungarian so maybe that&apos;s why I like him so much. Anyway, after watching the demonstration, I turned to my buddy Aaron Marshall and asked him if he would ever bother. Imagine going through the trouble of cutting a dovetail by hand only to hide it behind a miter joint? Luckily, a passerby overheard the discussion and explained that a real practical use for it would be in a bracket foot. You don&apos;t want anything more than a miter visible from the outside, but a dovetail would give the foot tremendous strength. The light bulb went off! Makes perfect sense. Thanks random woodworking dude! George Walker: You guys have heard me talk about George many times by now. I love how he teaches design. But after watching his DVDs, most of the session was review for me. He covered all the standard ratio business and classic forms and all that jazz. He also went into some detail on the use of dividers, which works very nicely with my personal adherence to Relative Dimensioning. The most compelling part of the session for me was when an audience member asked George to address the Golden Rectangle and how it relates to the whole number ratios. After all, the Golden Ratio is NOT a whole number ratio. George&apos;s answer was pretty straight forward. He basically said that the Golden Ratio is sexy to talk about, but if you really look at old furniture and forms, you&apos;ll see that the prevalence of whole number ratios is undeniable. He had many examples to support his position. Good stuff!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

After taking a couple days to catch up on stuff, I am finally ready to share my Woodworking in America experience with you. This was my first WIA and my expectations were building all year long. I even vowed to skip IWF (the big tool show in Atlanta), just to make sure I could focus all my attention on this education-focused conference. And am I ever glad I did! The Marketplace The show consists of two main areas: a marketplace and the educational sessions. The marketplace was approximately the same size as the show floor at the traveling woodworking shows, only the vendors here were much more engaged and of a higher caliber. Even if you didn&apos;t attend a single session, you could get some quality hands-on right on the marketplace floor! Somehow, I managed not to spend a dime but many of my comrades weren&apos;t so lucky. In fact, I wound up helping some folks spend their hard-earned cash. And while the marketplace could easily eat up a full day, I filled most of my time with the sessions upstairs. The Sessions I originally had a nice schedule set up, but its amazing how quickly that all changes when you start meeting up with friends and going to sessions together. Here are some of the highlights from the sessions I attended: Michael Fortune: I went to Michael&apos;s discussion on cutting veneer. The funny thing about a class like this is that there is very little discussion about actually cutting veneer. 95% of the talk is about setting up your bandsaw. Obviously you won&apos;t get very far if your bandsaw isn&apos;t set up properly. I enjoyed hearing Michael&apos;s perspective on the bandsaw and some of the things he considers to be myths. These are things that directly conflict with some of the conventional wisdom that I learned from some very knowledgeable folks, like David Marks. It just goes to show you that there is always room for more than one right way to do something. To sum up, Michael says that by using low tension and setting the blade in the middle of the tire, there should be no need to adjust for the drift of the blade. And if you use an aggressive blade for resawing, a 1/3HP machine should be powerful enough for just about any resaw task. He also says the whole coplaner wheel thing is crap. This talk truly made me re-examine a number of things I simply accepted as fact. Frank Klausz: Frank&apos;s demonstration was on the secret mitered dovetail. I don&apos;t have a picture but I&apos;ll try to explain this. Imaging a drawer with a mitered corner. But behind that miter, hidden inside is a set of dovetails. The process involves cutting a short miter into the adjoining piece first, then cutting a half-blind dovetail inside the new edge. Sounds more complicated than it is but Frank&apos;s humor and accent would make watching him play a game of ball in a cup fun and entertaining. I&apos;m half Hungarian so maybe that&apos;s why I like him so much. Anyway, after watching the demonstration, I turned to my buddy Aaron Marshall and asked him if he would ever bother. Imagine going through the trouble of cutting a dovetail by hand only to hide it behind a miter joint? Luckily, a passerby overheard the discussion and explained that a real practical use for it would be in a bracket foot. You don&apos;t want anything more than a miter visible from the outside, but a dovetail would give the foot tremendous strength. The light bulb went off! Makes perfect sense. Thanks random woodworking dude! George Walker: You guys have heard me talk about George many times by now. I love how he teaches design. But after watching his DVDs, most of the session was review for me. He covered all the standard ratio business and classic forms and all that jazz. He also went into some detail on the use of dividers, which works very nicely with my personal adherence to Relative Dimensioning. The most compelling part of the session for me was when an audience member asked George to address the Golden Rectangle and how it relates to the whole number ratios. After all, the Golden Ratio is NOT a whole number ratio. George&apos;s answer was pretty straight forward. He basically said that the Golden Ratio is sexy to talk about, but if you really look at old furniture and forms, you&apos;ll see that the prevalence of whole number ratios is undeniable. He had many examples to support his position. Good stuff!

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[I have heard countless times that you should never put polyurethane over waxed shellac. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD&#8217;s, the message is always the same. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Now I have always taken the &#8220;better safe than sorry&#8221; route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. But there have been so many occasions where I have heard of people accidentally using waxed shellac under polyurethane with no detrimental effects. And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. So what&#8217;s the deal? To answer that question, I decided to do a little experiment for myself. I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. There are just too many variables at play to answer this question with any real degree of certainty. But my results gave me enough confidence to say that if you are using the finish as a sealer coat (2lb cut or less), I see no reason not to use whatever shellac you have on hand, even if it has wax in it. This is a topic that I will continue to watch. And hopefully we&#8217;ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. **EDIT** It was immediately suggested that I do a Scotch Tape lift test. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. Using both duct tape and Scotch tape over a grid work of slices made with an X-acto knife, no lifting of the finish was observed on any of the boards. I even put tape over the area where the epoxy drops were and no lifting was observed there either. These finishes are holding on for dear life!]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

I have heard countless times that you should never put polyurethane over waxed shellac. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD&#8217;s, the message is always the same. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Now I have always taken the &#8220;better safe than sorry&#8221; route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. But there have been so many occasions where I have heard of people accidentally using waxed shellac under polyurethane with no detrimental effects. And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. So what&#8217;s the deal? To answer that question, I decided to do a little experiment for myself. I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. There are just too many variables at play to answer this question with any real degree of certainty. But my results gave me enough confidence to say that if you are using the finish as a sealer coat (2lb cut or less), I see no reason not to use whatever shellac you have on hand, even if it has wax in it. This is a topic that I will continue to watch. And hopefully we&#8217;ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. **EDIT** It was immediately suggested that I do a Scotch Tape lift test. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. Using both duct tape and Scotch tape over a grid work of slices made with an X-acto knife, no lifting of the finish was observed on any of the boards. I even put tape over the area where the epoxy drops were and no lifting was observed there either. These finishes are holding on for dear life!

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promo video for chest of drawers

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Turning a vampire stake.

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<br />

Whenever I lay out my project parts in rough lumber, I find that there are 5 things that I always try to keep in mind. This video is a quick excerpt of those five tips from the Chest of Drawers Guild Build. And yes, this is clearly an advertisement for the Wood Whisperer Guild. But hey, if I am going to advertise to you I sure as heck should put something useful in there for you to enjoy. Sign up today and receive 15% off your 6-month or 1-year membership. Simply use coupon code WOODNERD at checkout.

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<br />

In the past, I&apos;ve discussed how shop improvements are never done. As our needs and tool preferences change, the shop has to be able to adjust accordingly. If not, you will likely be faced with an inefficient and potentially unsafe work environment. If you can believe it, its already been over a year since Nicole and I moved into our new house. And for those that don&apos;t know, we are indeed still carrying two mortgages. So the &quot;dream shop&quot; must wait. But until then I will continue to improve this space and make it as comfortable and efficient as possible. This video shows some of the areas I am frustrated with and what I plan to do to improve them. Here are some links from the past that involve the evolution of my shop: Article - Evolution of a Workshop Article - My Humble Beginnings Video - October 2009 Shop Tour Video - A Moving Experience Video - Updated Shop Tour Video - The King and His Castle

]]></description>
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How to fix a cracked cutting board.

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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[While building my 6-panel cabinet recently (pictured left), I decided to capture the process of mortising for a butt hinge. With a router, a small straight bit, a chisel, and some careful layout, you&#8217;ll find mortising for hinges to be fun and easy. These simple tips will make the process much easier: - Create some sort of story stick for repeatability. - Use a marking gauge and knife to scribe the hinge locations for ultimate accuracy. - Use a router remove the bulk of the material at a consistent depth. - Use a sharp chisel to fine-tune the fit.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<br />

While building my 6-panel cabinet recently (pictured left), I decided to capture the process of mortising for a butt hinge. With a router, a small straight bit, a chisel, and some careful layout, you&#8217;ll find mortising for hinges to be fun and easy. These simple tips will make the process much easier: - Create some sort of story stick for repeatability. - Use a marking gauge and knife to scribe the hinge locations for ultimate accuracy. - Use a router remove the bulk of the material at a consistent depth. - Use a sharp chisel to fine-tune the fit.

]]></description>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[Right Click to Download Right Click to Download in HD Guild members will remember this small excerpt from the Shaker Table series. Its just a taste of some of the fun we have in the Guild. Sign up now and get 15% off your membership. Dovetails: very few joints are held in such high regard. Not sure why exactly, but there seems to be a nearly universal love and adoration for this flying vermin-inspired interlocking joint. And I don&apos;t care what anyone says, doves are just dirty pigeons in a lighter-colored outfit. To be fair though, the joint is beautiful, incredibly strong, and requires skill and attention to detail to cut by hand. One of the most common variations of the dovetail is known as a half-blind dovetail. You&apos;ll find this joint most often on drawer fronts where you don&apos;t necessarily want to see the joint from the front. With a few tools, a little know-how, and a lot of patience, this beloved joint is well within your grasp. And speaking of patience, what&apos;s the rush people?!?! It seems like some folks feel that if they aren&apos;t cutting their dovetails in three minutes, they aren&apos;t doing it correctly. I say put the breaks on and enjoy the process. After all, isn&apos;t that why you&apos;re cutting them by hand? If I wanted them cut in just a few minutes, I&apos;d keep a dedicated jig set up and knock them out with my router. Take your time.....be one with the wood...... If you want to see how to cut dovetails with a jig, check out When Dovetails Cry.]]></blip:puredescription>
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<iframe src="http://blip.tv/play/AYHriBsC.x?p=1" width="720" height="433" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://a.blip.tv/api.swf#AYHriBsC" style="display:none"></embed>
<br />

Right Click to Download Right Click to Download in HD Guild members will remember this small excerpt from the Shaker Table series. Its just a taste of some of the fun we have in the Guild. Sign up now and get 15% off your membership. Dovetails: very few joints are held in such high regard. Not sure why exactly, but there seems to be a nearly universal love and adoration for this flying vermin-inspired interlocking joint. And I don&apos;t care what anyone says, doves are just dirty pigeons in a lighter-colored outfit. To be fair though, the joint is beautiful, incredibly strong, and requires skill and attention to detail to cut by hand. One of the most common variations of the dovetail is known as a half-blind dovetail. You&apos;ll find this joint most often on drawer fronts where you don&apos;t necessarily want to see the joint from the front. With a few tools, a little know-how, and a lot of patience, this beloved joint is well within your grasp. And speaking of patience, what&apos;s the rush people?!?! It seems like some folks feel that if they aren&apos;t cutting their dovetails in three minutes, they aren&apos;t doing it correctly. I say put the breaks on and enjoy the process. After all, isn&apos;t that why you&apos;re cutting them by hand? If I wanted them cut in just a few minutes, I&apos;d keep a dedicated jig set up and knock them out with my router. Take your time.....be one with the wood...... If you want to see how to cut dovetails with a jig, check out When Dovetails Cry.

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  <pubDate>Fri, 02 Jul 2010 18:06:53 +0000</pubDate>
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  <blip:puredescription><![CDATA[You can reach us by email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450. ;]]></blip:puredescription>
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You can reach us by email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450. ;

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Airless sprayers

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